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New saw.2025,bought new and they put chain on backwards and will not cut.runs great but having problem loosening pinwheel chain adjustment.flip up lever but cannot loosen it.too tight

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If you can't even loosen it to get the chain off and put it back on properly take it back to the people who put the chain on backwards. That is absolutely ridiculous that a dealer puts a chain on backwards...they probably just tightened it too much...use a bigger screwdriver as to not strip the screw. It should never be that tight...they may even have the wrong size chain on it, check the chain package too , make sure its the right one for your bar......Take it back, If they can't loosen it easier and in a reasonable amount of time or you see them forcing it, demand a new saw. Seriously.

Posted on Apr 26, 2017

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How do you fit a chain on a Black and Decker chain saw Model DN 412?


Though I am not familiar with this model, I suggest this: Loosen the two nuts that hold the bar to the body of the saw, adjust the chain tension screw to loosen as much as possible, then take the nuts and bar off. When you put the new chain on be sure to have the teeth of the chain in the right direction, the chain rotates from top to bottom, out on top and in on bottom. If you think you have it backwards just flip it over as most bars are reversible and that would correct the chain direction. Rotating the bar with each chain change will give you more even wear of the bar too. It is somewhat tricky getting the chain on the drive sprocket sometimes but be patient and WEAR LEATHER GLOVES. Put chain on bar first, then chain on sprocket, then bar and chain over studs being sure chain is seated properly in sprocket and bar. Finger tighten nuts, then chain tensioner, then tighten nuts. Be sure to oil chain after assembly and before use.

Feb 14, 2015 | Garden

2 Answers

What would cause a new chain saw not to cut


New chains stretch considerably and yours may have to be tightened frequently at first. The chain will not cut if there is too much slack.

It is possible the new chain was installed backwards.

Nov 03, 2014 | Poulan Wild Thing 2375 18" Gas Chain Saw...

1 Answer

Homelite chainsaw how to install a chain


HOW 2 TRUE UP YOUR BAR SO THE SAW CAN CUT STRAIGHT and
HOW TO replace a chain.
This is for first timers--so dont laugh too hard,all you old timers out there!
and maybe some of you old timers
should read this too, as you might pick up a trick or two.
You might say ," I always wondered why it did that and how to fix it."


first ,you need the proper chain to install so look at your owners manual for the chain number. or use oregon.com cross reference
you will need the make & model # of you saw as well as the bar length and their web site will cross reference you to a oregon chain #.

to install chain: loosen two shiny 3/4 inch bolts on the bar side of the chain saw and look low on the right side of the bar when viewed from the back handle of the saw for the chain tensioning screw.
it is black and has a single slot for a screwdriver.
loosening this screw (but only after the two 3/4 inch BAR LOCK DOWN nuts have been loosened ) will move the bar backwards towards the engine clutch sprocket.

look at the chain mounted on the bar and note the front of the teeth on top of the bar pointed forwards. also note that on the bottom of the bar ,the chain teeth are pointed backwards toward the saw handle.
REMemBER THIS ,so you dont put on the chain backwards and wonder why a new chain wont cut.

take the 3/4 inch nuts off compleatly and hold the bar on so you can see how things should look. you can put 1 nut back on snug to hold the bar in position while you learn your way around.
someplace inside there is a plastic raised picture of a chain tooth to remind you which way the chain teeth go.

there is a sheet metal chain guard sheild on the 2 studs that the 3/4 in nuts came off from. the bottom of the sheet metal guard has a 2&1/2in slot in it and the wings on top & bottom point outwards on the outside shield and inwards on the inside sheild .
P.S. the slots on the bottom of the shield allow the chain tensioner nib to move forwards to tighten the chain and backwards to loosen the chain.
remove the hold on 3/4 nut and take 1 outside sheet metal shield off the studs.

look at the chain bar underneath the two studs that the 3/4 inch nuts came off from. You will see the tip of the chain adjuster tensioning screw fitted through a hole in the bar.
now loosen the chain tension adjustment screw which will move the bar backwards and make the chain loose.
when the chain gets loose enough , you can remove it from the bar. but ,I bet that the will come off or fall off first. dont worry,this normal.after you take the chain off,you have to take the bar off anyways.
wipe the oil & saw dust off the chain,so you can see out of your good eye, like one eyed pete always says, and look at the bar rails.

these are the two rails that the chain drive teeth, the ones that go around the clutch sprocket and the idler sprocket at the tip of the bar ,fit into.
THESE rails must each be the same length or the saw will try to cut circles to either the right or the left. also, the chain teeth must be equally sharp on both the right side facing teeth and on the left side facing teeth, or again, the saw will try to cut circles either to the right or left. The only reason the saw cant cut circles is because the bar is too wide to make the circle. anyways ,the saw is susposed to cut straight and not in circles.


If your saw it cutting right or left,when you get far enough into a curved wood slot , you will reach a point where the chain teeth can no longer touch the wood and cutting stops, even though the motor is still turning the chain.

so,first we need to insure that the bar rails are even with each other and HERE is one way to do it.
Buy some 60 grit emery cloth and put it on a flat table top.
I use the top of my table saw, but any flat table top will work if the table is stable.
Place the bar with the rails perpendicular to the 60 grit emery cloth. THat means --at right angles to,or at 90 degrees,or straight up & down and sand the metal bar until
the rails are even and all chain chatter marks have been sanded off. This is usually the fine finishing step of severly
worn and burnt bars and works well for lightly worn bars.

ANOTHER WAY for really messed up bars is to hold the bar straight up & down on top of the table, with either your hand or clamp it in a bench vise.
DO NOT SQUEEZE THE RAILS together or the drive links of the chain wont be able to fit in the slot and even if they do fit in,they may not run in the slot because the slot is too tight;and that might burn out your centrifical clutch shoes or your electric chain saw motor.

Use first a course double cut metal file to even the chain rails of the bar and then a fine double cut or single cut file to do finishing strokes and then sand with 60 grit emery cloth as above.

Take the file and run it across the 4 inch wide sides of the bar where the rails are worn over the edge so that only a right angle, square edge remains between the 4 inch wide sides of the
bar and the bar's chain running rails.
this will allow the bar to go easily up and down in a wood slot without getting caught and binding and requiring extra force to free up, only to get stuck again & again.

IF YOUR BAR is too messed up for even a file to cure.
use the 6 inch or 8 inch side of a grinding wheel, to true up
the rails. a lighter grit ,like 100 grit circular stone is better than a 60 grit stone ,because the stone is fast and takes off a lot of metal quick . you can use a 60 grit wheel if you have a light sure touch and can see well out of your good eye but an old artheritis riden , and almost blind out of my good eye
unelse im wearing 2.75 power reading glasses , which always slip off my nose when im grinding anyways, id rather use the 100 grit,because its slower, like i am.

YET ANOTHER WAY to true up your bar is to use a bench sander with 60 grit belt. It does a good job , but eventually
you will cut through and rip your belt and have to spend $10.00 to replace it. thats why I dont use it much anymore
after ruining 1 belt & replacing it. But its great for those problem rails and beats spending $30.00 plus tax and $12.95 shipping for a new bar.

SO. now that your bar is all trued up ,we can finally put on the new chain.

You should save you old chain and buy a chain sharpening file and clip on angle holder for the size of file recommended for your model chain. cost about $10.00 and you can get 10 to 15 resharpenings out of one chain
before you end put taking too much metal off the cutting teeth or stretch the chain out too far or break off too many teeth by hiting nails in the wood. (ive done it all) and speak from experience.

NOW, PUT THE BAR back on and make sure that the nub of the chain tensioning screw is in the hole in the bar. You can put 1 3/4 in shiny bar lock down nut on finger snug to things in place. next ,put the chain shield back on the studs and insure that the slot is down [on the bottom side] and that the tenisioner screw nub is still in the hole of the bar and that the shield wings are angled outwards. make sure that the tensioner is all the way towards the back saw handle so the bar is loose and install the chain on to the bar with the cutting teeth facing forward on top of the barand backwards on the bottom of the bar. all the drive teeth should be inside of the top bar rails and should be properly engaged on the clutch sprocket.
If need be ,check the clutch sprocket engagement of the chain's drive teeth by removing the outer shield to look see
and reassemble. place the plastic cover on the 2 bar lock down studs and finger tighten the two-3/4 inch lock down nuts . I usually finger tighten only one of the 3/4 inch lock down nuts in case something pops out from where it is susposed to be ,as it usually does.
NOW, take all but a little bit of tension off the 3/4 inch lock down nut so that they bar can move forward when the screw tensioner is tightened. AS you tighten the bar, the drive teeth will be pulled into the rail slots on the bottom of the bar.
You will need a look see to insure all the drive teeth are inside the rails. Tighten up the chain until it has about 1&1/2 inch slack in the center of the bar and tighten up finger tight
one or both of the bar lock down nuts. now test the chain for free running by turning the chain by hand.
BE VERY CAREFUL where your fingers pinch the chain between thumb and index finger because you dont want to pinch a cutting tooth. you also dont want to loose your grip and have your fingers slip into a cutting tooth.
If you start with the chain somewhat loose,you will feel how easy it is to turn the chain by hand. as you tighten the chain,
it will become harder and harder to turn until it locks solid into place.
WHEN THE CHAIN GETS HARD to turn,this is when you can loose your two finger grip and have your fingers slide into a cutting tooth. the chain is already too tight to run without burning up the clutch a little. loosen the chain until it runs freely but does not sag more than a 1&1/2 INCH TO 2 INCHES in the middle of the bar. There is a point where the chain will not run any more freely even if it is loosened more.
if you hit this point tighten up the chain some until you feel it begining to run harder. check the chain sag tension11/2 inch in the middle of the bar or 2 inch max if the chain seems to be running a little hard.

Its better to have the chain a bit loose that a bit tight but you dont want the chain so loose that it will come off the bar.
new chains stretch a lot a first and will have to be readjusted twice as much as an older chain that is done with most of its stretching.

Jun 13, 2012 | Craftsman sears 18" Chain Saw Chain (...

1 Answer

I sharpend my chain and filed and flip the bar around. And it still want cut. Do I need a new bar and chain?


I dont me to be rude but two things spring to mind, firstly have you put the chain on backwards? the chain on the top of the bat should have the sharp edge facing away from the saw ( turns clockwise as you look at it from the side of the saw ) and secondly have you sharpened it correctly ( right angles, and taken the depth gauges down to the correct hight ) there should be no need to replace the guide bar, at worst a new chain will do, let me know if you need to know more about chain sharpening.

Feb 16, 2012 | Garden

1 Answer

How do i change the blade in my bosch 700 pae saw


Do you mean pole saw? DISCONNECT PLUG If so you change it like you would a chain saw, loosen the bolt(s) at the base of the bar on the engine and put a screwdriver in the slotted area near where you loosened the two bolts and the chain will loosen and come off. To put new chain on, reverse but leave 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in chain. Pull on chain at the middle of the bar to set chain tension. Good Luck...

If it's a cut off saw there should be a motor lock on your motor, UNPLUG UNIT. Depress the motor lock lightly and rotate cut off wheel by hand until motor lock falls into place hold motor lock and loosen bolt in the center of the wheel you are trying to remove. Reverse instructions to mount new wheel. Good Luck...

Jun 11, 2011 | Bosch Saws

1 Answer

I have a new Echo CS-400. It starts easily, and appears to run aat full power, however, It is very hard to cut logs. I have to exert a great deal of force to saw through a six inch log. The chain is new...


Are you certain you have the chain on the right direction? Sounds like you may have it on backwards. A new chain should cut easily almost without effort unless it has come in contact with stones or metal or something equally hard. Hope this helps

May 03, 2011 | Echo CS400 18" Chain Saw

1 Answer

Change blade


all chain saws have a sprocket that the chain runs on this sprocket is what make the chain rotate on the bar. the bar is the long part that sticks out in front of the motor. you must remove the side cover of the saw to access the sprocket region of the saw. be sure the saw is unplugged and then remove side cover the bar is usually held in place by a couple of bolts. on gas saws these two bolts also hold the side cover in place and must be removed to replace the bar and chain. once you have removed the side cover look for bolts holding the bar in place. if you only want to change the chain then you may be able to only loosen the bolts or screws holding the bar in place.there should be a screw to adjust the bar forwards and backwards. this screw put tension on the chain so when you put a new chain on turning the screw will proberly tension the chain /do not overtighten the chain.
also be sure you put the new chain and blade on the same as the old one that comes off trying to cut with a chain that is on backward does not work. last note if you are replacing the blade because the old one is dull take the saw to a saw shop they can sharpen the exsisting chain and save you money.

Jan 24, 2011 | Remington Electric Chain Saw

1 Answer

THE CHAIN SAW RUNS. THE CHAIN XS NEW. IT DOESN'T CUT THE SMALLEST OF BRANCHES


I don't mean to sound offensive, but is the chain on the right way? I've put 'em on backwards, even started the saw before I noticed. And is the chain running when the motor runs?

If the chain is right then you may have gotten a chain with a bad grind. Never heard of it but it could sure happen. Get back with me if the chain is right and it's turning- we'll get it to cut.

lp

Jan 10, 2011 | Remington 111409 - 01 6" Branch Wizard...

2 Answers

Re-install chain


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Chain Adjustment
  1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
  2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They do not need these really loose - finger tight will do.
  3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
  4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
  5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
  6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH
Lou
Look carefully at the picture and your chain, it can be mounted backward; they do not cut when backward.

Dec 04, 2009 | McCulloch Garden

2 Answers

Ryobi 540A need manual runs slow/ chain too tight?


Actually, I own one of these battery operated Ryobi chain saws too. It is normal for the saw to run slow. Remember it is battery powered, not gas, so its not going to be a high rpm saw. Be patient whit it, and you'll get about 4-6 cuts per battery. I take mine camping. It sure is nice not having to listen to a two-stroke while relaxing in the woods! Dont plan on cutting lots of stuff, either, or you'll burn up the motor. This thing works great for very mild workloads.

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