My washer leaks water in even when my hoses are shut off

The 4E error indicates that the washer hasn't detected enough water coming into the unit. The problem could be in your incoming water line (low water pressure), the washer hoses, the inlet valves, or the sensors that detect the length of time to reach a specific amount of water in the washer. It can even be caused by having the outlet hose positioned too low in the discharge pipe or sink.

First check the obvious possibilities: make sure that the shut-off valves have been opened. If you hear water running into the washer and then into the discharge plumbing after a few minutes, raise the end of the discharge hose to a level above the washer fill level.

Shut-off the incoming water and remove the washer fill hoses. Place a bucket under the hoses and open the shut-off valves. Check that you have good water pressure; the washer is looking for the tub to fill in about 8 minutes. Then turn off the water. Clean the filters in the hose at the shut-off valves and the ones inside the washer at the inlet valve. You may want to replace the washer fill hoses; some anti-flood hoses will constrict if they detect a leak and limit the water pressure.

If the water flow at the hoses is good and isn't exiting the washer, then the problem is either the inlet valve or the water flow sensor. Does any water reach the tub? If it doesn't, check the inlet valve and make sure that it is getting the proper electrical signal from the control unit. If water is reaching the tub, then the problem in the flow sensing system. Some washers use an air tube that helps check the pressure in the system. If this tube is leaking or clogged, the sensor will give incorrect messages. Other systems have a small switch that moves as the water passes through the inlet valve. This can fail.

There can be other problems that give the same symptoms. If you post the model number of your washer, I may be able to point you to the correct diagnostic steps.

Cindy Wells

An H20 error means there is a problem with the inlet water. If could mean that there is no or limited incoming water pressure. If could be a problem with the inlet valves. It could even be a problem with the pressure sensor that detects how fast the washer fills.

First is any water entering the machine? Check if the shut-off valves are open. Check your washer hoses and replace them; some anti-burst hoses will restrict the water flow when they detect a leak. Take off the hoses with the shut-off valves closed. Then open the valves and let the water run into a bucket to check the water flow. Turn off the valves after confirming good water pressure at the appliance.

Check the filters in the washer inlet and where the hoses connect to the shut-off valves. Clean the filters. If you still have no water entering the machine, replace the inlet valve. It has probably failed in the closed position.

If you do have the washer filling in a short amount of time (8 minutes), then the pressure switch, the air hose is dirty or leaking or the reed that detects the flow speed could be faulty. The air hose can be checked by blowing through it. If you put a volt meter across the pressure switch/reed when you blow through it, you can rule out a problem with those items.

I hope this helps. Please add a comment with the make/model of your machine for extra details on the error.

Cindy Wells

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Drain Pump If the washer is leaking water the drain pump might have a hole or crack. Or, the bearings might be worn out. Replace the drain pump if it is leaking water, they're not repairable
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer is leaking water the tub seal and bearing might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal and bearing can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.
Tub Seal Kit If the washer is leaking water the tub seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal kit can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.


Tub Seal If the washer is leaking water the tub seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.

Tub to Pump Hose If the washer is leaking water the hose from the tub to the pump might be split or torn. Don't try to cut off the bad piece of hose and stretch it to fit the pump, this will put strain on the remainder of the hose and may cause a sudden and complete failure of the hose which will dump potentially hundreds or thousands of gallons of water onto the floor because the next time the washer tries to fill all of the water will end up on the floor and so the washer will never shut off the valve. Any time there is a damaged hose, replace it completely with the OEM part.

Washing Machine Fill Hose If the washer is leaking water, check the fill hoses on the back of the washer, this is the most common place for water to leak. If the washer still has the original black rubber fill hoses replace them with stainless steel or some other, more durable hose.

Drain Hose If the washer is leaking water check the drain hose. The most common places for the hose to spring a leak is from the connection to the pump out to the back of the washer. Another common occurrence is when the washer gets pushed too far back against the wall.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Drain Pump If the washer is leaking water the drain pump might have a hole or crack. Or, the bearings might be worn out. Replace the drain pump if it is leaking water, they're not repairable.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer is leaking water the tub seal and bearing might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal and bearing can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.
Tub Seal Kit If the washer is leaking water the tub seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal kit can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Spin Seal If the washer is leaking water the tub spin seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub spin seal can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.
Tub Seal If the washer is leaking water the tub seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.

Tub to Pump Hose If the washer is leaking water the hose from the tub to the pump might be split or torn. Don't try to cut off the bad piece of hose and stretch it to fit the pump, this will put strain on the remainder of the hose and may cause a sudden and complete failure of the hose which will dump potentially hundreds or thousands of gallons of water onto the floor because the next time the washer tries to fill all of the water will end up on the floor and so the washer will never shut off the valve. Any time there is a damaged hose, replace it completely with the OEM part.

Washing Machine Fill Hose If the washer is leaking water, check the fill hoses on the back of the washer, this is the most common place for water to leak. If the washer still has the original black rubber fill hoses replace them with stainless steel or some other, more durable hose.

Drain Hose If the washer is leaking water check the drain hose. The most common places for the hose to spring a leak is from the connection to the pump out to the back of the washer. Another common occurrence is when the washer gets pushed too far back against the wall.

Most likely, your washer's fill valve is leaking. You can probably find replacement valves. I found the AEG LAV1480 parts at several sites.

If your water pipes to the washer have shut-off valves where the hoses connect, turn the water to off after doing the wash. If they don't have shut off valves, have them installed. It's a cheap way to avoid floods when either the valve or the hoses fail. There are some high-end electronic shut-off valves that include a timer so you won't forget to turn off the water. Two simple 1/4 turn shut-off valve (one for hot, one for cold) are cheaper but you have to turn off the water after you finish the load.

To test the shut-off valves when in the closed position, disconnect the hoses from the washer and put a bucket under them. No water should flow into the bucket beyond the water that was initially in the hoses.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

are you sure the water valve isn't bad and the washer is filling even after it shut off?try this,after you use it shut off the water supply to see if it doesn't have water in it,the only way the water can leak back in is if the end of the drain hose is in say the sink and the water rises up and the hose is in the water and the hose is lower than the top of the washer then it could siphon back into the washer but check to see if you have a bad water valve on the back of the washer,dirt gets in the valve and it can't close all the way and the washer keeps filling even when it's off.let me know what you find.

Hi, W/D here.

You probably have a leaking solenoid. A solenoid is a valve that is either opened or closed. You have one for the hot water line, and one for the cold water line. The hoses from the wall go to the solenoid valves at the back of the machine. The machine tells them when to open and close based on what cycle you tell the machine to perform.
To figure which one is leaking by, shut off one of the water supplies (hot or cold) at the wall where your hoses connect. Wait a bit and see if the water continues to rise. You may have to mark the level in the tub with a pencil, or grease pencil to see if it is rising or not. If it is rising, that's the leaking side. If not, close the open valve at the wall, and open the other valve. Continue to observe to see if the water level rises (it should). Once you have determined which one is leaking by, disconnect (unplug) the washer, close the water valves, and follow the hose of the leaking side down to the washer. Where the hose screws on to the washer is the solenoid in question. Disconnect the hose, and catch the water in a pot or a bucket. Gain access to the solenoid (usually by taking the back off of the washer). Take careful notes as to how the wiring connects so reassembly isn't an issue. I make sketches showing where each wire goes, what color it is and so forth, and that's real handy. Remove the solenoid. Take the solenoid with you to an appliance parts supply house and get a replacement. The installation process is the reverse of the removal process.
Hope that this helps. Best regards, --W/D--

You may have a leaky fill hose, or you may have a faulty 'donut' seal, which sits on top of the transmission and is sandwiched between the inner and outer tubs. You could also have leaky inlet hoses, which are attached to the wall water valve and then to the back of the washer. At worst, you may have corrosion on your outer tub that resulted in a hole through it.


Pull your washer out from the wall so you can access the back. Try to see exactly where the leak is coming from. If your leak is from the inlet hoses, which is the most common place, simply shut off the water supply, remove and replace BOTH of the hoses, even if only one is leaking.

If the inlet hoses are okay, remove the back panel of the washer (it's simply attached with screws - easy to remove), start the fill cycle of your washer and watch for where it is leaking. Look for calcium buildups on and around the hoses. These buildups would indicate a leak.

If you find that an internal hose is leaking, remove the spring clamps at each end of the bad hose and obtain a replacement.

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE BEFORE MAKING REPAIRS!!!

first of all make sure water water is shut off to washer,you can take the handels off take the nut off that holds the valve in place there you find either a rubber groumet or o ring replace that put back together should fix your problem.

Did you change the rubber washers in the hose? or did you use the old ones there should be a rubber washer inside the front of the hose.