Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
More than likely, you have lost the element in your dryer. Sorry to say, but they are not that cheap (WE11X103, Price Retail $89.00), but if you think your handy enough, they do make a restring kit ( WE11X203, which sells for around $40.00). The issue, if you do it yourself, is that you have to re-wire both strings in the element. You would have to be sure that the coils dont touch each other or any part of the element housing, or it will short out. If you feel your up for it, here are the directions for getting into the unit. UNPLUG THE UNIT first off. Open the door, and look at the top of the door housing area for screws that may be securing the top of the unit. If there are screws, remove them, if no screws, put a putty knife between the top and cabinet, approx 1-2 inches from the side and pop the clips holding down the top. Lift and slighty pull top towards you and unhook the top. Spin the unit around, and remove the four screws securing the back access panel and remove the panel. Remove the belt from the idler pully, remembering the way it went for reinstallation. Go back to the front panel, and remove the two screws holding the front panel onto the cabinet. These should be just inside the cabinet around 2" down in the top front corner. Tilt the front panel towards you and lift off the bottom securing brackets. Make sure the loose belt is loose, then remove the drum by firmly pulling forward and lifting slightly. You may have to SLIGHTLY bend the cabinet to allow it to slide forward. You now have access to the element. Look at the two strings for breakage. You may have to gently push on them to find the break. Sometimes (especially with GE's) that one string has completly blew up, if this is the case, be sure to clean out all remaining peices of broke element. If you dont find a broken string, stop, and write me back, we'll check out the other issues it might be without tearing it down again, or wasting unneeded money. Get back to me (firstname.lastname@example.org) with anything else (problems, no string breakage, helping you find parts, etc) that you may need. Thanks and talk to you soon. JIM
Posted on Nov 06, 2007
I had the same problem and figured if the lint sensor is clogged, covered or otherwise gummed up with lint, dirt, hair, etc then this will continue to happen regardless of wether the lint trap is clean.
So I took my compressor and blew out the slot where the trap slides into...stuff flew everywhere (so watch your eyes or wear goggles). I then vaccumed it up and did it again... and again and again each time loads of stuff came out. Once nothing blew out I loaded the dryer and have not had the problem since...
This makes sense right? so if you can try this solution.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
This is a common complaint with this dryer.The probe generating this problem,is at fault.It likely has a film on it,from the dryer sheets.Remove the lint screen,and wipe down the probe that sticks into the air box.Should fix the problem,if not ,replace the probe.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
This compressor is small however like other brands in this size range draw 13 - 15 amps. Thats quite a bit of power. The compressor has a thermal breaker that will begin to trip if compressor is hot. I am assuming that the breaker that is tripping is the one on the compessor. I have seen many hitachi breakers fail. Easy to replace with generic 20 amp, cost about $10. Before you replace anything, check amp draw with meter, if within specs try to determine what is causing heat.
cycling too many times per hour (check manual for recommended)
low power due to weak circuit or extension cord
using generator for powering compressor (not recommended)
using low quality oil (use synthetic if hot climate)
air leaking from intank checkvalve back to pump
If no reason to overheat then replace breaker on compressor to 20 amp but watch for overheating. Good luck
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
I have this wonderful TV, and it would overheat. Put a small fan benind it blowing air so that it would cool air into the bottom vents and more heat pushed out the top. Worked for a while and then back to 30-60 minute run time then it would die again. I removed the entire back panel (close to 30 screws) and it hasn't failed or overheated again. Problem solved.!
Posted on Aug 01, 2010
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