Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The problem that you describe could be casued by several problems that you can check yourself. I usually begin by checking the in-tank check valve for leaking air back to the pump. Follow the air discharge hose to the tank and you will find the brass checkvalve. With about 80psi in the tank, unplug the unit from the wall and loosen the smaller fitting (or larger whichever is easier ) at the checkvalve and listen for air leak. If leaking replace with generic valve available at www.grainger.com. Just pay attention to pipe sizes. If no leaks at check valve, remove capacitors from the motor (mark the leads) and test with meter. Repair shops usually test for free if you do not have a meter that can test capacitors. The caps should test within 95% of rating printed on side. Replace with generic to save money just watch size so that they will fit under cover (also available at grainger). If no problems so far, remove the belt and check bearings on motor and compressor for noise (should be relative silent as your turn it by hand). Worn bearings on the motor will cause the motor to overheat. Worn bearings on compressor will just make noise but usually not cause your problem. If all good, then problem could be valves in pump leaking causing the pump to become very hot. This is a visual inspection by removing the head. Finally the electric motor uses sealed bearings and cannot be lubed, only replaced due to age. Good luck
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
I have the same problem. It's happen
two times. The first time, it was an unprotected power lug connected to a
heating element that makes contact with the metal cover (just under the glass).
The breaker tripped and after a careful isolation maintenance it was ok. Last
night another f*** spark occurred. This time, the breaker did not trip and the heating
element’s warm light are always ON. It’s the same problem on a different position.
But it was a thermostatic contact lug shorting whit the f*** metal cover. The
main issue is that the glass top is used to maintain isolation gap between
power lugs and the casing (grounded). In fact, heating elements are spring loaded
to reduce the spacing between glass and elements. If a pressure is made by the
counter-top the glass is forced to un-bond (my case) and elements can move,
make short-circuit and burn down my house.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
SOURCE: Frigidaire ES200/300 316257123
look for a shorted bake element .. you should be able to see where it poped. ( some times ) if you have ohm meter you can ck for an open element . **** //
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
No that is a very dangerous situation. What is sounds like is you had a short that blew apart but not completely damaging the wires. You should unplug, and open it if its out of warranty and inspect the wires. If the wires are partially burned it can heat up and cause an electrical fire.
Posted on Jun 09, 2010
I don't understand the statement to replace "at least 2" elements in FixinFax's post.
I have a JP350, and this just happened to us. I turned off all the controllers, reset the breaker, and tested - 3 stations work fine (so wife can still use them). I have not tested the one I expect shorted out - I found a replacement element on ebay for less than I expected... will order and replace 1 element soon.
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
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