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Was using heater and heard a pop of electricity and breaker kicked now not working

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: Motor labouring - electric breaker kicking out

The problem that you describe could be casued by several problems that you can check yourself. I usually begin by checking the in-tank check valve for leaking air back to the pump. Follow the air discharge hose to the tank and you will find the brass checkvalve. With about 80psi in the tank, unplug the unit from the wall and loosen the smaller fitting (or larger whichever is easier ) at the checkvalve and listen for air leak. If leaking replace with generic valve available at Just pay attention to pipe sizes. If no leaks at check valve, remove capacitors from the motor (mark the leads) and test with meter. Repair shops usually test for free if you do not have a meter that can test capacitors. The caps should test within 95% of rating printed on side. Replace with generic to save money just watch size so that they will fit under cover (also available at grainger). If no problems so far, remove the belt and check bearings on motor and compressor for noise (should be relative silent as your turn it by hand). Worn bearings on the motor will cause the motor to overheat. Worn bearings on compressor will just make noise but usually not cause your problem. If all good, then problem could be valves in pump leaking causing the pump to become very hot. This is a visual inspection by removing the head. Finally the electric motor uses sealed bearings and cannot be lubed, only replaced due to age. Good luck

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Frigidaire self cleaning electric oven.

I have the same problem. It's happen two times. The first time, it was an unprotected power lug connected to a heating element that makes contact with the metal cover (just under the glass). The breaker tripped and after a careful isolation maintenance it was ok. Last night another f*** spark occurred. This time, the breaker did not trip and the heating element’s warm light are always ON. It’s the same problem on a different position. But it was a thermostatic contact lug shorting whit the f*** metal cover. The main issue is that the glass top is used to maintain isolation gap between power lugs and the casing (grounded). In fact, heating elements are spring loaded to reduce the spacing between glass and elements. If a pressure is made by the counter-top the glass is forced to un-bond (my case) and elements can move, make short-circuit and burn down my house.



Posted on Nov 10, 2009

  • 1891 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire ES200/300 316257123

look for a shorted bake element .. you should be able to see where it poped. ( some times ) if you have ohm meter you can ck for an open element . **** //

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Heard a pop and then an electrical smell. Unit is ...

No that is a very dangerous situation. What is sounds like is you had a short that blew apart but not completely damaging the wires. You should unplug, and open it if its out of warranty and inspect the wires. If the wires are partially burned it can heat up and cause an electrical fire.

Posted on Jun 09, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a ge Profile Performance electric cooktop

I don't understand the statement to replace "at least 2" elements in FixinFax's post.

I have a JP350, and this just happened to us. I turned off all the controllers, reset the breaker, and tested - 3 stations work fine (so wife can still use them). I have not tested the one I expect shorted out - I found a replacement element on ebay for less than I expected... will order and replace 1 element soon.

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

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Can you diagnose the fault & advise me how to fix my hotpoint electric cooker please?

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If its a resistance heater (electric heat) chances are you have a shorted out heater element. This is the most common problem with these units. You can disconnect the 220 going to the elements and turn the unit on and see if it still pops a breaker. If it don't then you know its the heater elements their selfs. If it still pops a breaker then look for a wire that go hot and shorted to either the case or another wire.
Take caution when working on 220 volt equipment as you will get shocked. You should never touch anything inside the unit unless you have pulled the power to it (Turned it off via breaker or plug or what ever means it has to connect the unit to the household electric.).
Hope that helps you.

Jan 27, 2011 | AdobeAir Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Electric Dbl Wall Oven-loud popping noise at end of self clean

Bill ,i dont suspect the control unit is the problem im going back to the loud pop you heard I would say the pop you heard was one of the elemants blowing and that the reason the the breaker tripped if you say the clock,timer and light functon are ok it more so points to an elemant in most cases when an elemant blows it breaks the circuit .but the other componants also work when you reset the breaker i think in this case bill i would call a electrician it needs testing,sorry i could not help this time bill,but do not hesatate to contact me if i can help you again.adrian

Feb 02, 2009 | Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

Cook top "popping" noise

make sure the heater elements are properly nested into their respective electrical sockets. if they get loose, then the electrical contact can be intermittent and arc/spark a bit..

Sep 10, 2008 | Kenmore 30 in. 44022 / 44029 Electric...

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