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If a washing machine is rumbling, and very **isy on spin, the main
suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on many
washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing
seal fails. To
check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the
drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings may have
gone. There should be a constant rumble all the time the drum is
A**ther drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in
the drum which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from
the drum lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing
failure can be a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and
down the back of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the
belt goes) although this patch is **t always present. There are usually
two small holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has
got past the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained
with grease and rust if water has got into the bearings.
Loud **ises when turning the drum by hand can also be caused if the
drum itself splits, or the spider at the back of the drum has come away
from the drum, is corroded or even broken. This would **rmally be a
loud **ise on each revolution of the drum whereas the **ise when drum
bearings have gone is constant all the time the drum is turning.
Lifting the drum checking for excessive play can often reveal a broken
or loose drum spider which sometimes only occurs at certain points
round the drum (the spider has three arms and is bolted to the drum at
Coins or other obstructions trapped inside the tub under the drum can
make horrendous **ises as they get tossed about on spin. They often
don't make the **ise unless laundry is in though. Look out for obvious
dints and creases in the drum itself as evidence of a coin or similar
stuck inside although be aware that it only shows there's been an
obstruction in at some point and the coin could have fallen into the
sump hose or filter and **t actually be the cause of the **ise at this
Other causes of a **isy washing machine are coins and other
obstructions inside the water pump. This will cause **ise when the
washing machine is emptying the water. Coins or other obstructions can
get trapped between the outer tub and the inner drum. This would
produce a lot of **ise on spin as the coins get tossed around inside.
Often, spinning the drum by hand will **t reproduce the **ise in the
case of coins because the coins drop to the bottom of the tub and lay
flat when the washing machine isn't spinning
A light scraping or ratchity **ise when the drum is turned by hand is
commonly a bra wire trapped between the tub and drum. They can often be
removed from underneath with the sump hose taken off. It's always worth
checking that the wire isn't poking through one of the holes in the
drum which can be pulled back out from inside the door. It's rare, but
I've retrieved 3 or 4 this way over the years.
A high pitched squealing or harsh **ise can be motor bearing wear. This
can also be checked for by taking the belt off and running the motor
A k**cking **ise can be a loose tub weight. This would **rmally be
worse with heavy loads and would **t be present on spin with ** washing
in. This is because the k**cking **ise is caused when the tub (or outer
drum) shakes about on spin. Without washing inside the drum the tub
doesn't move. A**ther symptom of a loose tub weight is grey concrete
dust under the washing machine. Warning: These days most washing
machines have plastic tubs and over tightening a tub weight bolt can
easily shear the bracket resulting in a new tub being required. Try
loctite. Often, once a tub weight has come loose the plastic tub is
damaged anyway especially if it isn't caught early e**ugh
Sometimes a badly worn drive belt can cause a surprising amount of
**ise. I've even come across some where i was convinced the drum
bearings were gone until I took off the belt and spun the drum by hand
to find ** **ise.
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THE WASHER IS OBVIOUSLY HAVING A PROBLEM DETECTING THE WATER LEVEL? IT DETECTS AS FULL WHEN ITS NOT AND THEN GOES INTO DRAIN CYCLE? THE FILLS AGAIN? I would suspect the water pressure switch but if it was detecting a full cycle it would sent it into wash cycle? the water inlet valve only allows the amount of water it is told to send in and does not control the amount or drain cycle. Im not sure here but Im thinking maybe the water level switch may be flawed, the one that has low-medium and high? all these can be checked with a multimeter
MAKE SURE YOUR WATER IS HOT WHEN STARTING THE FILL CYCLE YOU MAY HAVE TO FILL IT UP ONCE THEN DRAIN IT THEN FILL IT UP AGAIN TO MAKE SURE ITS HOT THEN ADD 1 CUP OF AUTOMATIC DISHWASHER SOAP AND RUN AN EMPTY CYCLE. THIS WILL REMOVE ALL ENZIMES AND SMELLS FROM WASHER
sorry to ask you this but are you sure the flakes are rubber? usually the black flakes are lint from the clothes. to help combat this problem try this.1- buy 2 pkts of bicarb of soda or baking soda, 2- select high water fill. 3- select hot water fill.4- pour soda into an empty machine. 5- shut the lid and push the start button. 6- let it fill and wash, let it wash for about 5 to 10 min"s , do not let the water drain.7- turn machine off after letting it wash for 5 to 10 min"s , and leave the water sit in the bowl overnight . 8- in the morning start cycle again and let it go thru complete cycle. this should get rid of most of the lint. you might have to do this twice depending on how dirty the plastic tank is. please reply 4 more help and good luck.
check the drain pipe is not blocked, to empty the machine manualy get a bowl on the floor and lower the drain pipe into it and fill to stop water flow lift pipe up in air and lower to start draining again when empty if pipe not blocked i would suggest a new pump located under the drum and easy to fit