I have solved it myself. The motor is a PSC type. The 14 mic cap goes across the blue and red. The active goes on to the Red. The neutral goes on to the white. Reversing the red and blue will reverse direction. There is a difference in current draw. It seems most of these small washing machine motors are PSC. So are a lot of fan motors. They are one up from a shaded pole motor.
SOURCE: GE Washing Machine Replacement Motor - Capacitor? Relay? Schematic?
The new units have all of your schematics, capacitor and a higher price for a reason. With GE I avoid used parts because there is so much electronics you don't want to fry. The wire harness leads match the old and there should not be an extra wire, were would it go if there is not a receptacle for it?
I looked up your unit and the motor replacement is WH20X10009 for the model you quoted. As of now GE is has updated this to model wh20x10006 for around 263 dollars.
SOURCE: replacing blower motor in furnace w/Fasco brand #D727
Some one missed the wiring diagram. I believe its like this:
L1 = Line 1 = (Hot all are same thing)
Black Hi
Blue Med
Red LO
Now usually the black is for AC and connects to a normally Open (NO) contact on the blower relay.
The heater speed (either red or blue) go the the normally Closed (NC) on the blower relay and on one side of this wire or contact on the relay it goes to the heating blower thermostat on the furnace.
The remaining wire (blue or red) you tape off.
L1 also feeds the Run Capacitor on 1 side and the Brown wire feeds the opposite side
The white wire is Neutral and goes to the neutral on the main line.
If this helps you please rate me accordingly and good luck.
SOURCE: I have three house wires supplied- white, red, and
make sure power is off before working on the fan wiring ..(trip circuit breaker)
here is what the house wires are
1. black is hot (power) all the time .. its normally connected to the black wire of the fans speed control switch .. that is normally operated by a pull chain ..
2. red is the same power as black except it comes from a wall switch .. this would be connected to the blue wire in the fan (that goes to its light) .. that will allow you to turn the light on an off from the wall switch ..
3. white is neutral .. it connects to both white wires inside the fan .. one goes to the fan the other goes to the light. .. if there is more than one light bulb then there will be more white wires .. hook them all together and to the white house wiring ..
4 then there is safety ground .. usually green or bare copper ... that is connnected to either a green wire inside the fan or bolted to the metal of the fan (often a green bolt is provided) .. the green wire is not required for the fan to run but is required as a safety to make sure no one gets shocked on the fans metal parts ..
after you wire the fan ..then turn on the wall switch .. if the light doesnt light then pull its pull chain until it does .. you can then tie up or remove that chain to prevent anyone from changing that position since you can now control the light from the wall switch you dont need that chain anymore .. the fan should come on slow med and high then off .. each time you pull its chain ..
SOURCE: I purchased a ceiling fan
That is kinda confusing, but it sounds like the blue wire for the light kit should also be connected together with the red supply wire for the fan motor from the ceiling wires, and not the capped black wire. That is if the two wires to the fan motor are the white and red wires from the ceiling. Normally the white wire is a neutral wire and the black is the field wire and they both are alternating current "hot" wires, and the green wires are grounded to earth ground only.
Let me know if I understood that right about the wires from the ceiling, and let me know if you require any further assistance.
See if this diagram is correct
SOURCE: Purchased: Carriage House II
check this link for a diagram, http://www.wiringhelp.com/electrical/electrical-how-to/how-to-wire-a-ceiling-fan.html go down to the diagram with 2 switches,, click it, it will enlarge,
I had the same problem. The lid lock assembly is broken.
If you are under warranty get it replaced. If not remove the top of the washer
and take out the switch assembly. The 4 wires going in are Yellow, Red, White,
and Blue. If you short the white and blue together, the washer thinks the lid
is closed. If you short the red white and blue together the washer thinks the
lid is closed and locked. The yellow is only there to activate the
electromagnetic switch.
Disconnecting the switch assembly will not work.
The electromagnet locks the lid and it also unlocks the lid. It is not a matter
of cutting the power to the magnet.
Installing 2 switches that connect the red white and blue is the best option if
you want to remove the lock.
The first switch should connect the white and blue. (LID CLOSED)
The second should connect the red to the white/blue connection. (LID LOCKED)
After that the lid should work.
Please post a follow-up if this works for you.
GOOD LUCK
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