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The reduced power light is pertaining to the TAC - electronic throttle control . Is the check engine light lit ? If not still may have a DTC -diagnostic trouble code stored . You probably have a bad TPS - throttle position sensor .
Throttle Body Assembly
The throttle body for the throttle actuator control (TAC) system is similar to a conventional throttle body with several exceptions. One exception being the use of a motor to control the throttle position instead of a mechanical cable. Another exception is the throttle position (TP) sensor. The TP sensor is mounted in the throttle body assembly. The TP sensor is 2 individual TP sensors within the throttle body assembly. Two separate signal, low reference, and 5-volt reference circuits are used to connect the TP sensors and the powertrain control module (PCM). TP sensor 2 signal voltage increases as the throttle opens. TP sensor 1 signal voltage decreases as the throttle opens.
The humming coming from the blower is probably your blower not operating. It may be a number of things.if you turn you AUTO-ON setting at your t-stat to the ON position, it should operate your blower (indoor) only. If that does not bring the blower on its probably not your t-stat. Check all your breakers, both at the indoor unit(if equipped you should be able to see them without removing any panels), and at your breaker panel. If a breaker is tripped, reset it and then AUTO to ON again at the t-stat. If no luck it may be the blower motor or any component that connects to the motor. Call a tech.
You should start with Rotary switch on "Maintenance Bypass" position and Qf1 open.
Turn Rotary Sw to "Test" position and wait for self test to execute and UPS to turn on.
Once you get the Yellow lamp lit, it is asking for QF1 to close
Once closng QF1, if green LED is lit, turn UPS off by pressing gray button until it ask for confirmation, select Yes and press Return.
Turn Rotary Sw to Normal position, press On button and the green LED will illuminate.
If, after closing QF1, the green LED didn`t lit, turn Rotary Sw to Normal, press On button and wait for green LED to lit.
if anything is not working well.. please let me know.
The first thing is to turn off the main breaker. Wear safety glasses! This will kill the power to the panle except to the main incoming lugs. If you cannot shut off the main then call an electricianIf you have a square d panel then it is a QO breaker. Simply pull out the defective breaker by pulling straight out. Look at how the fingers grip around the silver bus(where you get the power from) and the plastic bar (it holds the bottom off the breaker)<
If your pilot light is lit then I would first check your thermostat. Make sure it is on heat setting and fan is on auto, turn stat up to where it should be calling for heat. If you don't get burner to light remove front cover from thermostat and see if it has a mercury switch, if it does move temperature selector up and down and see if you can see a spark in mercury switch vial. If y ou cannot see a spark remove screws that attach t-stat to base.Remove carefully and disconnect wires that go to r and w terminals on stat base. Temporarily connect these two wires together. This should make burner light if you have power to thermostat. If burner does light disconnect wires and replace thermostat. Also if you have a volt meter check across these two wires and see if you have power there. Should be around 24 volts a.c. If your thermostat has a fan on setting try that. If fan runs you know you have power to furnace The gas valve needs 24 volts to operate and inside the electric control box in furnace there is a transformer to step down 110-120 supply voltage to 24 volts. If transformer is working you should be able to hear a low buzz or humming sound. You can also check across gas valve terminals when t-stat is set for heat, you should read about 24 volts. If you have 24 volts to gas valve and it is not opening then you need to replace gas valve. The main purpose of the limit switches is to turn blower on when temperature in heat exchanger reaches fan on temp,shut off blower after burner shuts off and heat in heat exchanger reaches fan off temperature, and limit if temperature exceedes set point without blower coming on. I hope this helps you. Thanks
Hi, something is for sure still energized after it is satisfied. I would think it would be on the control voltage side, like a contactor coil or relay. What I would recommend if you are able, is to go up top to the condenser and remove the cover. With the unit satisfied at the stat, listen to see if you can find the componant that is still getting power to it and you will know. If it is nothing above, my guess it would be in the controls on the indoor unit. More then likely, I would say you will find your problem part up top. Please keep me posted on this. Let me know what you find. Something is still getting power to it. With the unit satisfied, am I right to say the hum is not coming from the breaker its self? Just asking. Sincerely, Shastalaker7
check wiring into outlet and at breaker that feeds outlet. you may be losing high volts at or to the switch. if possible check power into the stat when the condition occurs. this will telll you if stat is bad or power into it aka the outlet is bad. you may be jiggling wires in the outlet enough to fix short term each time you replug to outlet or get a good heavy extension cord and plug in else where to seee if problem goes away.Good luck
If you have replaced the spark module with the new, blue PA020041 Tytronics 0+4 spark module, the physical positions of the leads that go to the burner igniters are reversed compared to the positions on the old, white module. Make sure that the switch wire for the burner and the position of the spark wire both go to the same burner! The positions are marked on the white label with green lettering.