Question about Cooper Wiring Devices 6009W-K ROTARY DIMMER REPLACEMENT KNOB WHITE

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Replace dimmer switch with toggle

Hi - I want to replace a dimmer switch (the old 1970's era rotary knob kind) with a regular toggle switch. I can get in there and disconnect the wires, but once I do that, how do I know which terminal to attach them to on the new switch? Both of the wires in this case are black.

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  • Craig Butler
    Craig Butler May 11, 2010

    One of the wires is hot and the other will be the 'switched' wire going to the light. It really won't matter which one is which for you. Just be sure to find the breaker for the light and turn it off. Then hook up the two wires to the two terminals on the new switch. (one on each terminal)

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Both wires should be black because the switch interrupts or breaks the connection to the light. It doesn't matter which black wire goes where. Just be sure the power is OFF and then undo the dimmer switch (usually has wire nuts connecting the black leads) and then connect the wires to the new toggle switch.

Turn on the power and feel good about your work!

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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There are two wires, but one is the supply to the switch where it is either off and no where for the juice to go, or on, and the juice goes out the other black wire to the "load", which could be an overhead light, garbage disposal, etc. The wire coming in as the supply should be wired to the top connector of your switch, if it's a wall switch, and the load going out wire to the bottom connector.

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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1 Answer

I need a wiring diagram to wire two way dimmer switched in place of normal switches


Take off the 2 wires from the old switch... put on the 2 wires from the dimmer. the 3rd wire is a ground it is green put it on a ground screw at the back. If your switch has more wires it is likely a 3 way system and needs a 3 way switch instead.

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Did I break my dimmer knob?


You can get the knobs separately if you look. First check if the knob was a half circle or a serrated style, i think the replacements have an adapter to fit either style.

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I just installed a Leviton IP106 Illumatech dimmer switch. It was replacing my existing rotary dimmer switch. The switch is a 3-way wiring job, with another 3-way toggle switch (no dimmer) on the other...


The Leviton IP106 Illumatech dimmer switch must be installed at the switch location where the hot feed exists. From your description your hot feed is at the regular 3-way switch location. Swap locations.

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My rotary dimmer doesn't switch 3-ways. I have to push the dimmer button to "on", then I can use the other switch to turn on/off.


You posted under Leviton rotary dimmer.
Lutron and Leviton have many 3-way dimmer styles, and both make 3-way rotary dimmers.

I remember years ago replacing 3-way switches with dimmers and having same experience as you. One dimmer has to be ON for the other dimmer to dim.

Later I learned when you replace both 3-way switches with dimmers, you buy a control-and-companion dimmer set. One dimmer is main, and it lets you dim from both locations. The two dimmers communicate with each other electronically. Buy these dimmers at lighting store that specializes in fixtures and dimmers. Ask for most experienced salesperson.

I checked to see if rotary dimmers are made in the companion set. And neither Leviton or Lutron show 3-way companion set rotary dimmers.

1) Leviton spec sheet on rotary 3-way dimmers does not show companion dimmer. This indicates that Leviton rotary dimmers don't have capability of communicating with each other.

2) Lutron has image of 3-way rotary dimmers.
Image shows single rotary dimmer in 3-way & 4-way circuit.
This tells me that Lutron does not have companion dimmer for 3-way rotary dimmer.
geno_3245_123.jpg

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1 Answer

How to install a dimmer switch


This is a 3-way switch, made to control a light fixture that is also controlled by another switch in a different location. A typical example is a ceiling light fixture installed in an upstairs hallway, which could be controlled by switches at both top and bottom of the staircase.

The green wire in your switch is the ground connection, and joins to the green insulated or bare copper ground wire in the switch box. The red wire is the common connection. It connects either to the incoming AC hot wire from the electric panel, or to the hot terminal of the light fixture, depending on the switch location. The two black wires are traveller connections. They connect to the traveller terminals of the other 3-way switch.

If you purchased this switch as a replacement for a regular single-pole toggle switch or dimmer switch - one that controls a light from a single location only - then this isn't what you need and you can't use it. You'll know if you have a single-pole switch because it will have only three wires or screw connections. Return it and get a single-pole.

To install this as a replacement for a 3-way toggle switch or dimmer, connect the red wire to the wire going to the common terminal of the original switch. This will be a black- or brass-colored screw on a toggle switch, or the different-colored (not green, that's ground) wire on a dimmer. The black wires connect to the wires that go to the traveller screws (copper-colored) on a toggle switch, or the same-colored wires on a dimmer. It doesn't matter which traveller wire connects to which.

Note that if you're using a 3-way dimmer, only one of the switches can be a dimmer. The other switch has to be a plain old 3-way toggle.

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1 Answer

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You should attach the green grounding wire to the metal box using a green grounding screw. You don't want to leave the wire loose, as any contact with the switch screws could cause a short.

Also, you should wrap the switch with at least 2-3 complete wraps of electrical tape to prevent the screws from contacting the sides of the wall box.

As a side note, you should likely have a complete check done on your house if you still have knob and tube wiring installed, as the dangers associated with this very old wiring are many. Typically, older K&T wiring was used in homes well over 60 years ago and houses then only had minimal electric current drawing devices, such as lights and a couple of other small appliance devices (toasters, coffee pot, TV and radio, etc.)

The problem with older homes with K&T wiring still in use, is that the circuits can be easily overloaded with modern electric convinences and lead to a possible fire situation, especially since there is no dedicated ground to help mitigate short circuits, etc. Also, the rubber based insulation used on this type of wiring deteriorates after 40 years (+/-) and rodents tend to chew on exposed wires in attics and crawl spaces.

I don't wish to alarm anyone, but as a Licensed Master Electrician, I've seen and done my share of repair work involving Knob & Tube wiring and even had a couple of homes that had a mix of it and other, newer wiring, that I've completely rewired. Many states require K&N wiring be replaced before a home can be sold, so getting a jump on it will make your home safer and better suited to operate all the devices that people tend to have, in today's society.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

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1 Answer

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Questions to answer so I can answer/resolve your problem:

1) Is this a rotary style dimmer?
2) Is it a toggle or slider type?
3) Is this on a 3-way circuit (that has 2 or more switches that can turn the lights on or off)
4) Is this on a single switch circuit?
5) Is this a brand new dimmer switch?
6) Is this an old dimmer switch?
7) Are the light bulbs in the spots regular incandesant or halogen bulbs?
8) Are the light bulbs in the spots CFL (compact flouresent lamps)?

With this information, I can tell you what the problem is:

If you answer "YES" to #1, and or #6 then the dimmer is faulty and should be replaced.

If you answer "YES" to #8, then you have the wrong dimmer for the bulb type, as CFL's require a specific dimmer type in order to dim them.

Please provide some more info and maybe we can help you figure out what's wrong.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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