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Took out the stitch finger, put back in now it will chain a few and wraps around the other fingers . Works fine without the finger.i have to cut the thread off of the fingers and feed dog

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

snakehead
  • 1074 Answers

SOURCE: Thread getting caught underneath

you need to replace your shukle that holds the tread bobbing below.it is either slack or broken . if it is slack then you tighten the little screw that holds a cover that gives the thread tension .if its broken then replace it.once the thread is slack below it will cause your thread to bundle up.

Posted on Mar 19, 2007

  • 1116 Answers

SOURCE: Threads knotted under the plate in the feed dogs.

Some sergers have a threading guide inside the door on the front of the machine.

If you need a manual, please provide the brand & model.

Posted on Mar 06, 2010

micromatikal
  • 2777 Answers

SOURCE: I have a White Speedy-lock model 234DE that is

Yikes, it does sound like it was knocked out of alignment. You have made sure all tension adjustments are right, correct? Hmmm there is not a whole lot else you can check. I would try that left needle to see if it winds correctly. If it does you know something was knocked off on that right needle. It may need to be professionally serviced at this point, it sounds like you have done all possible simple things that you can check...
Let me know what you find with that left needle and I will continue to research this.
Thanks, Tim

Posted on Oct 03, 2010

SOURCE: Threads won't wrap around stitch finger and hold to fabric when sewn. Does anyone know how to fix the timing on this machine?

try these sites
youtube for timing
fixsewingmachines.com
sewusa.com

Posted on Apr 11, 2012

SOURCE: Baby Lock Serger 5360ED

when the feed dogs aren't moving like they should, then the machine needs to be serviced to see why,

Posted on May 30, 2012

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3 Answers

HELP! I have a brother 1034d the thread is stacking up on the little fingers on the needle plate


I have the same problem. The serger is making the chain, but it's not moving off the stitch finger! I have to pull it while im operating it (with force) and when i put fabric, it bunches up like crazy and i just broke a needle... Any clue anyone?? Here is a picture... https://goo.gl/fhqq15
img_8943-e525u3gqe2ymixf5c2uots3q-1-0.jpg

Apr 23, 2017 | Brother Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Thread breaks when zigzagging but straight stitch ok


Check that the bobbin thread is not pulling the top thread down when zig-zagging. If so, the bobbin tension may be too tight.

Also, there could be a burr or nick somewhere that is catching the thread when zig-zagging. Wraps very fine fabric around your finger (silk, old hosiery, etc.) and run your finger around the needleplate and underneath. If there is a snag somewhere, the fabric should catch on it. Generally, carefully sanding with a fine emery board or sandpaper can smooth it.

...

Jan 04, 2017 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Why does fabric get caugh on the roll hem devise when over locking


this sounds like an overlocker/serger machine you are using? if the fabric is catching on the overlocking tongue it could be a number of factors, have you lifted the top cutting blade out of the way and forgot to put it back into place? That would be my first thought, the top and bottom blade move against each other cutting the fabric. Rolled hemming usually requires the blade to be set on about 2, or middle of its setting range, the stitch finger is pulled back out of the stitching area, top looper thread is loosened off and bottom looper thread is tightened up, resulting in the top looper thread wrapping around the edge of the fabric and pulling the cut edge down under within the seam, forming the rolled hem.

May 13, 2014 | Elna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I set up my babylock serger for a rolled hem? What is the tension to be set at?


I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.
10_16_2011_3_34_10_am.jpg

Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

Sep 24, 2011 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

1 Answer

How do I create a rolled hem with this machine. I see the stitch width knob, but do I need to remove one of the threads for this?


Making a rolled hem on any overlocker is achieved in the following way:

use right hand needle only and top and bottom loopers. Turn stitch length down so threads are closed up (on mine this is 0.5). Your stitch length dial will be one on the right hand side near the flywheel usually. Loosen off the the top looper tension and tighten up the bottom looper tension (these are the right and 2nd right tension dials on front of the machine). On my Bernette I leave the needle at the usual 5, 2 on the top looper and 6.5 to 7 on the bottom looper thread. Move cutting blade position to the right so that you are trimming the fabric quite a bit wider than your stitch, this makes the fabric "roll" underneath inside the stitching to form the rolled edge or hem.

There is also another step that needs to happen where you change or remove a little stitch finger that sits in the pressure foot or just under it. On the Bernettes, you flick a lever to move this stitch finger back towards the operator so it is out of the stitch forming area. On some machines, it is a case of changing the little stitch finger which is screwed onto the pressure foot with a screwdriver.

I really don't know with your Necchi which it is but have a good look at the pressure foot, and around the blade cutting area and see if you can see a lever or check out the accessory bag and see if there is another stitch finger in there, it would be smaller than the one on the foot now. In effect, this finger sits out and the threads wrap around it to form your normal overlock but for rolled hem you want a much smaller finger in place to make a very little seam.

The other variable which makes a very neat job is to use a thread called "wooly Overlock" in the upper looper only. This thread when pulled under tension is tight looking but when you let it go, it fluffs out. So when seaming on a rolled hem it fills out the stitching and covers the edge of the fabric fully giving a smooth look. You can do it without but wooly thread makes a great job and you'll see it on all Ready to Wear seams usually for this reason.

If I am going to roll hem a fine sheer woven fabric like organza or chiffon I will change the needle to make sure it is nice and sharp and also ensure it is a regular point, not a ball point (I seam lots of knits so have ball points in most of the time on mine) Usually a size 80 is fine.

I hope this gets you going with your overlocker, I usually test stitch quite a bit with the stitch length at the normal 2.5 setting and adjust the looper tensions until I've got the stitch looking good, then turn it down to the very close 0.5, just to not waste a ton of thread.

Sep 09, 2011 | Necchi 6002 Sewing Machine

2 Answers

I am doing some sashes for a wedding and i want to know on my serger 14SH654 ultralock how to do a rolled hem


A rolled hem on any overlocker is formed by using the right hand needle only, and the two loopers to form a narrow three thread seam. You also need to retract the seam width finger as Trial2962 said. This is a little finger that sits on the stitching plate and the loopers form the stitching over it. By retracting it, the looper threads can form a narrow seam and in fact, roll the fabric inside the seam. You need to move the cutting blade as far right as it will go so you are trimming as wide as possible from the needle, turn the tension on the top looper rigth down to 2 so it is very loose and this thread wraps around to the underside. And tighten the lower looper tension to about 7 so it hardly shows and sits right up against the needle thread. Adjust and test until you get the seam looking like this, then turn the stitch length dial (on the right side by flywheel) down to 0.5 to close the seam right up tight. Lastly, if you can source it in the right colour, buy woolly overlock thread and run this through the upper looper only, this thread is fluffy and when not under tension, relaxes and "fills" out so the seam appears like a continuous coverage over the fabric.
9_26_2011_11_26_51_pm.jpg
You will need to practice a few runs and go slowly on corners, a curve is obviously much easier to serge than a right hand cover so if you can, cut the fabric with curved ends, much easier to get a great finish. When you chain off at the end, you need to unravel the tail threads and pull them inside the seam for a few mm with a needle to get a smooth finish, then trim the tail and seal with a drop of Fray Stop.9_26_2011_11_26_51_pm.jpg

Sep 04, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

I am trying to do a rolled hem using a singer ultralock 14sh654. Do I disengage the knife? The stitches are uneven and some are quite loose no matter how much I adjust the tension. I am positive I...


no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

Jun 25, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

Can't re-attach the stitch finger when done with rolled hemming. How do you put it back into place?


Open the front cover and working table (the door that is on the left side). On the side of the needle plate is a ****. Line your stitch finger up so that its flat side is towards the machine. On the inside of that ****, there's a little bracket to hold the stitch finger secure--it slides into that. Good luck! it took me hours to figure this out the first time! There's a yahoo group for White model sergers---they are excellent resources, too.

May 18, 2009 | White Sewing Superlock 1934D Mechanical...

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