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The refrigerator does not get cold. The defrost timer has been changed. The temperature control was checked and found to be ok. The compressor is fine also. I'm also planning on changing the capacitor. Could the compressor be low on freon? Sign desperate.

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Either the unit is low, or there is a bad capacitor. You can use a capactior tester or mult-teser/ohmmeter to test the capacitors first, but sounds like freon if your thermometer and temp controls switch is getting and sending signal.

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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1 Answer

Does the control thermastat have anything to do with the freezer on my refrigerator getting cold but not freezing


If you remove the evaporator cover and look at the frost on the evaporator is it fairly even frost from top to bottom? If you don't have frost on the bottom half of your evaporator then you have a freon leak. Do you have a model number for your unit?

Mar 15, 2013 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frigidaire PLHS269ZDB9 is not getting cold enough to freeze or make ice. I took off the panel , there is an ice block on the thermostat to the evaporator. trying to defrost.


When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor


Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.



Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.

*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.



Defrost heater:

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.


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Some newer refrigerators have been using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive defrost board.


Nov 28, 2010 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Everything in ref freezing up


1)check the temperature setting.it should be set on normal mode. 2) check if the ventilation in the fridge are blocked .there are two possibilities you will have to check 1)the defrost timer 2)the evaporator coil. How a common frost free defrost cycle works and the main parts. When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor. Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
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the evaporator coils are located at the inner side of the freezer section.if the ice gets collected in the coil and the evaporator fan stops running then the inner system of refrigerator will get over cool and this problem happens.
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now to solve the issue .if to check evaporator coil is faulty or not there is a system.just unplug the unit from main power outlet then wait for 24 hours.then replug the power cord in the main power outlet.in 24 hours all the ice collected in between the coil and anywhere will get melted and then check out.if it works properly the problem was ice in coils.but if same problem then defrost timer needs replacement,you can get new timer friom
--- www.repairclinic.com
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This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Nov 10, 2009 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Compressor on sxd20tw wont shut off. just cleaned


How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

Aug 25, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

I have a rm2611 refrigerator which has lights, no fan


There's a capacitor by or on the compressor that probalbly needs replacing. This is the cheapest route .

Jul 05, 2009 | Dometic RM2620 Refrigerator

1 Answer

WHERE IS THE DEFROST TIMER LOCATED ?


Hi

The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.

Please do rate the solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee




May 31, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Defrost not cycling


Hi. the Defrost timer assembly has failed. simply replacing this timer will fix the defrosting issue.

Concerning the refrigerators cold control. this is caused by a malfunctioning Temperature control assembly. simply replacing this device will fix the erratic cold control.

Now, i would inspect the compressor for its operational value before purchasing a temperature control assembly. If the compressor isn't cycling on and off and if it is making a very loud noise or pinging, this will confirm compressor failure. you will have to replace the compressor in this case.

If the compressor is coming on in a cycle and powering off without any abnormal noises, this will confirm temperature control failure. replace the temp control assembly in this case.

I will post the parts need below so that you may order the affected parts on line if you choose.

Temperature control assembly.
Defrost timer module.

Please rate and god bless:)

May 11, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator does not get cold enough 50 degrees.


HI,

if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold. Their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off. I think you do have a leak.
any further question let me know.

thanks.

Mar 31, 2009 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

FREEZER NOT FREEZING AND FRIDGE NOT GETTING COLD


First check to see if your compressor is running at all. If your compressor is at room temperature you cold control is not supplying power to the compressor. Replace the control or locate the defrost timer and rotate the clutch head screw ( Normally black or Grey) and rotate it a small amount clock-wise. If the compressor then starts replace the defrost timer.

Apr 12, 2008 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

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