Question about Hotpoint Dryers
Dryer is about 3 or 4 years old. Google searches show this seems to be a fairly common problem across many brands and models. I always made sure dryer vents were clear. It stopped mid-cycle as usual, just never restarted this time even after days, so am pretty sure the knobs and door switches are not the problem. Even though I tried all those quick checks and vent / lint checks. Not electrically talented here, but was able to troubleshoot and repair my washer in 30 minutes with a $15 part while the repair guy I am under contract with wanted $225 for parts to fix so I do not have a high level of confidence in that company. Suggestions please?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat.
THE FIRST THING TO CHECK IS YOUR POWER. THE OUTLET HAS TWO ANGLED HOLES THAT SHOULD TOTAL 240VOLTS ACROSS THEM. THE L SHAPED HOLE IS THE GROUND AND THERE SHOULD BE 120VOLTS FROM EACH ANGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE. THE DRYER'S MOTOR ONLY RUNS ON 120 VOLTS ( FROM ONE ANLGLED HOLE TO THE L SHAPED HOLE). THE HEATING ELEMENT CIRCUIT RUNS FROM ONE ANGLED HOLE TO THE OTHER(240VOLTS)
THE DRYER WILL RUN BUT NOT HEAT WITH ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPPED.
IF POWER IS O.K., THE NEXT THING TO DO IS PULL THE BACK PANEL OFF OF THE DRYER. THE HEAT ELEMENT IS IN A BOX ON THE RIGHT SIDE WITH TWO RED WIRES GOING DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. IF YOU HAVE A METER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE TWO WIRES ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE HEATER. IF YOU HAVE
240VOLTS THERE, THE HEATER IS BAD. IF NOT, THE ROUND ITEM NEAR THE BOTTOM IS A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT. IF YOU HAVE 240VOLTS AT THE TWO TERMINALS ON THE THERMOSTAT, IT IS BAD. PART #
279769 COMES WITH THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT AND THE THERMAL FUSE FOUND AT THE TOP OF THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. CHECK THE THERMAL FUSE THE SAME WAY.
IF IT IS BAD, YOU WILL SEE 240VOLTS ACROSS IT.
IF ALL THOSE COMPONENTS ARE GOOD, IT COULD BE THE TIMER, TEMP SELECTOR SWITCH, OR THE MOTOR'S CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH. YOU WOULD HAVE TO READ THE WIRING DIAGRAM INSIDE THE CONTROL PANEL TO CHECK THOSE ITEMS.
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
SOURCE: Tromm DLE5955 dryer less than
Clean the lint screen/filter before or after drying each load of clothes. If clothing is still damp at the end of a typical drying cycle or drying requires longer times than normal, this may be a sign that the lint screen or the exhaust duct is blocked.
Please don't forget to rate or accept the solution.
Posted on Jun 08, 2008
I had the same problem and figured if the lint sensor is clogged, covered or otherwise gummed up with lint, dirt, hair, etc then this will continue to happen regardless of wether the lint trap is clean.
So I took my compressor and blew out the slot where the trap slides into...stuff flew everywhere (so watch your eyes or wear goggles). I then vaccumed it up and did it again... and again and again each time loads of stuff came out. Once nothing blew out I loaded the dryer and have not had the problem since...
This makes sense right? so if you can try this solution.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
when you try to start it again do you hear a humming comeing from the motor? can you jump start it by turning the drum while holding the start button? If you say yes to these questions you have a bad motor.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
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