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Why are thier 2 fan low options on the control nob of my coleman mach rv rooftop air conditioner

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  • Master
  • 604 Answers

Low ac and low air only

Posted on Apr 21, 2017

  • Doug B
    Doug B Apr 21, 2017

    No the knob has..... off, low fan, low fan, high fan, low cool, high cool. Nothing changes when switching between the two low fan settings.

  • johnny rebel Apr 21, 2017

    screw up at builders

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

koolbreezes
  • 540 Answers

SOURCE: coleman mach air

Time for a spring cleanning,, especially the drainnage system, filter,, front cooling coils-and the drain line! thank you-very-much!

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: coleman tsr mach 3 RV Air Conditioner

the fan motor bearings need lub....the shaft has a tiny access hole to put some oil into. because the fan shaft is slowing down, it is putting more strain on the voltage current, and eventually the internal breaker shuts down the ac........plus your condenser is not getting enough air accross it, compressor heats up, and it too will shut the unit down......older units have to be oiled every year, and eventually it too will fail, and a new blower motor assembly is needed or replace the ac unit.....blower motor units are around $130....now you install it or pay to have it done at around another $150 labor,,,,,try yourself, if it fails then call the tech........let me know ..ray..yyzazz@ao.com

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: How to put refrigerant in Demotic RV Rooftop Air Conditioner

You will need to add a self tapping port to the suction side of the unit. You will have to determine what the size of the pipe is and then go to a local a/c supply company and buy one. It's kind of like a self tapping supply for water but for high pressure. Hope this helps. I would also put one in on the high side as well so you don't blow the valve in the compressor if you over charge it or the system is dirty.

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

  • 127 Answers

SOURCE: coleman mach air conditioner in rv tries to start

“The voltage could be low – ”
a) Check the voltage between #1 on the
overload switch and the “R” terminal of the
compressor while it is not humming. This
voltage must be 115 volts domestic USA
models or 240 volts export/overseas models.
No less than minus 10% is allowable.
b) Check the voltage from “C” or “R” of the
compressor while it is humming (trying to
start). The latter reading will probably be
lower, but it still must be 103.5 volts
minimum domestic USA or 216 volts
minimum export/overseas models.
If the first reading is above 103.5V domestic USA and
the second is under 103.5V domestic USA, there is
too much voltage drop in the lines - a situation which
must be corrected for the air conditioner to perform
safely and satisfactorily.
2. “A capacitor could be shorted, weak or open.”
Turn the power off.
Caution – There is always a chance that a capacitor is
holding a residual charge, so before touching a
terminal, discharge the capacitor as explained earlier
in this booklet.
Remove capacitors, visually examine them and test
them per instructions given in earlier section on
capacitor testing (See page 9).
If the capacitors test OK, replace them and carefully
reconnect the wires. Be sure the wires are connected
to the right terminals.
3. “Start relay contacts could be open – ” if so equipped.
Turn off all power, then check for continuity with
ohm meter between terminals 1 & 2.
4. “Compressor start winding could be open or
grounded.”
Check compressor windings per instructions. See the
section on the compressors (See page 8).
5. “Compressor could be mechanically stuck.”
This very rarely occurs and when it does, it is usually
after a lengthy shutdown. This should be considered
only after all the above possible causes have been
positively eliminated. To free a stuck compressor, use
your hermetic analyzer according to the
manufacturers instructions.

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

  • 127 Answers

SOURCE: My RV rooftop air conditioner fan has seized up

Whether to replace the entire unit or repair it is a tough decision. If the unit is not very old and was working fine before the fan motor froze up, then I do not think that it is necessary for the entire unit to be replaced. With a new unit of course comes the new warranty.

It is not difficult at all to replace the upper unit of the air conditioner. What you have to look for and make sure of is that the ceiling pack or Air Distribution Box (inside unit of AC) that you currently have is compatible with the new Upper Units. Get the part number off of the inner unit and make sure that it is compatible with the part number of the new upper.

Again, it is much less expensive to replace the fan motor than the entire unit (especially Dometic). You could replace the fan motor and get another 10 years out of the AC or, you could replace it and only get 1 year out of it. That is your call.

Just a word of precaution. Dometic Air Conditioners are very hard to find right now due to an industrial accident that occurred at the AC plant. Most distributors and service centers are 6 to 8 weeks out on getting a Dometic AC in stock. That is something else to think about.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

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