Have a CC Hathaway 2015 36ckts. Shower suddenly drains so slow that it's unusable. All other grey water. Locations drain just fine. I have removed shower drain screen and verified that trap is clear.
I have used a vinager and salt solution and a mild liquid drain opener. No luck. I located a clean out plug in the basement but have not opened it because of unknowns. I do have a small plumbing snake. Haven't used it yet either. BATH gray tank indicator says tank is empty. Apparently, the bath lavatory drains thru the galley. All other drains are working fine.
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Bath sink will be on what is called a "wet vent" for the shower.
That means they are on the same drain.
There should be a cleanout on the sink drain below where the drain enters the wall. That would be your "last resort" access to put a snake in to break up the obstruction.
I would try using a plumbers suction plunger on the shower drain.
Show no mercy!
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I'm a retired plumbing inspector so should be able to coach you.
If it is a big valve it is your sewer tank drain valve. There is two valves. One is the Black water drain and the other is the gray water drain. the black water drain comes from the toilet holding tank, and the gray water valve drains the shower and sink holding tank.
Assuming you mean you're going to park it for the winter ????
Start by draining all the water tanks, i.e., fresh water, grey water, black water. Go inside and open all the faucets - if you have one or more where it's a common lever type valve and you swing it left or right depending on desired water temperature, then set it for the middle and turn it full on - leave all faucets turned on - shower included. This will allow the water lines to drain out. DO NOT TURN OFF the faucets - leave them on. Don't forget the toilet tank. If there is still some water left in the bottom of the toilet, pour in a cup of standard automotive antifreeze (ethelyne glycol type) and then CLOSE THE LID of the toilet. Ditto this (antifreeze) for all of your drains. Pour 1 cup of (full strength) liquid antifreeze into all drains (sink drains, shower drain, etc) Finally, make a sign that says "WINTERIZED - PLEASE DO NOT USE" and then TAPE THIS onto the toilet lid.
This is likely "sewer gas" and can cause headaches, dizziness, etc. if you remain exposed to it for a prolonged period of time. This originates mostly in the drain openings of fixtures that are seldom used - such as sinks and showers of basements, guest rooms, etc.
When these fixtures do not get used regularly, the relatively small amount of water that is designed to always be present in the "trap" portion of the drain pipe eventually evaporates. This trapped water prevents the the gasses in the sewer / septic system from passing through the trap. Without it, these gasses will rise through the pipes connected to the sewer / septic system and exit into your living space via the drain opening in the floor drain, shower, tub, sink and even toilet if left unused long enough.
It is usually resolved very easily by slowly pouring about a 1/2 gallon of water down the drain. The water now isolates the drain opening from the sewer / septic system and effectively stops odors from escaping. If you find that this is happening regularly (often from floor drains in dry basements) you should slowly pour water 1/2 gallon of water into the drain, and then add 2 to 3 ounces of cooking oil. The oil is lighter than water and will sit on top of the water surface. Oil does not evaporate and blocks the water from evaporating through it. Evaporation of the water in the trap will take place from the sewer / septic side of the trap, but it occurs at a much slower rate.
After filling the traps with water or water & oil, just ventilate and you're done!
a lot of shower diverters do this..you may need a bigger seal on the diverter..if you can remove the spout assembly from the tub(with the diverter valve in it) and take it all to the hardware store.. see if they have a different seal/diverter that has a snugger fit but still falls to drain the shower head line out..that will slow that leakage..the spout is on a pipe and unscrews counter clockwise(normally)unless its a single valve unit..with the wide ring around the back..then that calls for a plumber..
You can try using rock salt and boiling hot water down your drains. That will help if you have roots getting into your line. Chemicals are not very good for your pipes. If you have PVC drains the chemicals can eat a hole in the pipe because most of them have acid in them. They are also bad for your health (breathing in fumes, getting on skin, etc.) If the line is broken down, has a break in it, it will need to be repaired.
Yes water can back up in a drain and flood out lowest opening, which would be a toilet flange at floor level. If tub is draining fine, then clog is probably near the toilet, but below floor flange level, and therefore not inside the tank ... judging from your description. If you are in a house, go outside and see if there is a vent stack on the roof directly above toilet. If so, you can run a snake down from there. You can also run a snake down through "s" shaped toilet trap and enter the pipe that way. Another option is to remove the toilet and run snake directly down hole, and then reattach toilet.
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sounds like there may be some blockage in pipes. try to run a long snake through both drains or run all fixtures in bathroom and try plunging vigorously in tub and shower while running water. if nothing still, it may be possible that your underground plumbing is back graded or incorrect fittings and plumbing installation.
You need to run a snake through the overflow. I'm sure there is hair that is caught in it. You remove the overflow cover. The p-trap is just about 8 to 12 inches below. There isn't a need to go any further but it doesn't hurt.