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Hi Black and orange wires have come off the back of my indesit DCI 85 condenser dryer can you tell me where they connect to ?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: indesit is60v dryer

Shaz, di you ever find where the 2 wires go? i have the same problem, they came off whilst i was changing the belt.

Posted on Aug 09, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: indesit washer

if you mean the wires that go to the back of the drum from left to right= green circle=brown wire pushon tellow/green(earth) square =2 lite blues yellow circle=dark blue if this isnt what you needed please respecify and ill do my best to answer ,ian if you add to this post it will inform me for a faster reply

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

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SOURCE: Problem with Indesit tumble dryer

could be a switch in there or one of these This sounds like the thermostats

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see other tumbledryervideos here

Common faults -
1 The heating elements can fail(meaning open circuit)
2 There are cut-outs (T.O.C's) thatmight need resetting
3 The thermostats (stats) can tripout or burn out (meaning opencircuit)
4 Moderntumble dryers also have sensors and pcb's (Printed circuitboards) thesehaveprograms that can fail and circuitry although most should produce an errorcodeshowing you were the fault is.
5 Faultyconnections and burned wires may also bethe fault.

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Posted on Jan 10, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Indesit IS70c condenser dryer



Posted on Jun 29, 2010

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SOURCE: indesit IS70C tumble dryer not heating

This caused by one of two possible things. Either you have poor air flow, or a clogged vent preventing air from flowing freely and therefor making the dryer short cycle, which in turn will take you two or three times to dry yor clothes, or the heating element has gone bad, burnt in half and is making contact with the case to provide it just enough power to barely heat. The second thing is a very rare occurance. I would turn the dryer on, find out where the air vents out to, and with the dryer running, go to where it vents and check to see if there is a strong flow of air. 9 times out of 10 that is going to be your problem. Another way to check air flow is to just pull the vent off the back and let the dryer run and see if your clothes dry faster. If you do it that way and they still take a long time to dry, then you'll probably need to replace the heating element

Posted on May 11, 2012

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Black Carbon is Not Good! This could be related to the Brushes on the motor and unless you are good at repairing a motor; I would advise getting a replacement. Write down the Make, Mod. and other details from the Motor label and look on line for a low cost replacement. To open the Dryer, just unscrew the back panel and look for the motor housing. In some cases, you may have to remove the Drum, pulley and/or drive belt. Be careful because the Metal Is Sharp and it can Cut your hands or Arms. The motor when exposed can be removed from the dryer housing by removing the screws/bolts and attached wire connections. Remember the order in witch you took it apart because that is way you put it back together. Remember the exact attachment of the electric wires prior to pulling them off of the motor (Red and Black/or White wires). These wires Must be reattached the exact way they were affixed at the factory. When done, replace the back panel and your done. I do hope you DISCONNECTED the Power Plug "FIRST"...Dah?

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AC condenser motor 3 wires, black,orange,brown. Which is L1, L2 and capacitor ????

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Replaced the thermostat and high limit regulator on my amana comercial dryer lea60aw but forgot to tag wires, starting from the thermostat on the blower, i'm not sure where the wires go to, i have

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The wires can be connected to either terminal of the thermostat
Please take time to rate me

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I have an Indesit ISL70 and we seem to have developed a problem. Three red lights are flashing (water, filter, heat exchanger, all of which are ok) and the door won't open. Any advice?

Note:- The front NTC connects on the top edge of the circuit board - plug with two orange wires. The element and rear NTC are connected on the right hand side of the circuit board - this plug has 5 wires Blue, Orange, Brown, Red and Black.

1) The front NTC measures approx 500k ohms.
2) The rear NTC measures approx 500K ohms [red and black wires on the plug]
3) The resistance between Orange and Blue Wires is Approx 46 Ohms [This is one half of the element]
4) The resistance between Orange and Brown wires is Approx 46 Ohms [This is the other half of the element]
5) The resistance between the Blue and Brown Wires is approx 92 Ohms [This both parts of the element]

My machine has 2 devices above the element, one is an NTC the other is the safety cut-out. The safety cut-out is connected in the orange wire to the element common connection.

The resistance of the NTC's varies with temperature - so you may not get the figure I have quoted. The resistance reduces as the NTC warms up; if you remove the NTC connect it to an Ohm meter and warm the flat metal side with your finger you'll see the resistance go down - the drop wont be dramatic [after all your finger is not that hot] and is easier to see on a digital meter.

Measurements taken with the plugs disconnected on a digital meter... and don't forget folks MAINS PLUG OUT FIRST!!!!

Important.... there are some different versions of these dryers, so different readings may be obtained.

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1 Answer

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look in the wire schematics that came with the dryer or look them up online. They should tell you what that wire is for.

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Forgot the manual to wire carrier fan coil - took care of the thermostat -but need to wire fan coil

Carrier wires are as follow Red black green whiteyellow. R common Black ground Y cool O or orange Reverse valve G fan W heat. The white on the Air handler depending on your electric backup heat has two wires together connected to white. Orange connects to orange on the condenser. Unless you have terminal board the everything is marked. Ruty

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