The size of my lot is not even, so how would I figure fencing needs for 100.02 x 97.12 x 47.23 x 52.18?

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The ability to cut close to square on a table saw is a function of four things: the motor mount, the blade, the fence or miter, and the user. The motor mount should be tight, and the blade plate (not the teeth) should be parallel to the T-slot. This takes a lot of time and patience to get right. Some saws are difficult to get right because the mount was never tweaked to perfection when new. So be prepared to use a rat tail file to tweak the non-threaded holes to get it right. Then take a look at the fence. Many fences have a tendency to drift a little as you apply clamping pressure. Even a very good fence can do this, so it is a good idea to use a pair of squares or a square and an inside caliper to check this with each use. This is where the difference between a high end cabinet saw with a premium fence and a piece of junk $400 job site saw really show their difference. Inexpensive miter gauges running in the T-slot have similar squareness issues. You can probably make a better one than most of them that are shipped with inexpensive new saws. Incra makes a good one. Differences in the sharpening angle and set of your saw teeth can also cause issues. Table saw blades are not as bad as band saw blades, but the tendency to drift can be set and sharpened into and out of a blade. Finally, patience in your setup and good posture combined with using feather boards whenever practical will be a great help. If you are doing small to medium sized cabinet work, then there is no substitute for using a shooting board to actually get a perfect edge on your cut.

I've never heard of cutting a hole in a chain link fence before. I'm considering installing one of these around my own yard to help keep my dog on my property. My family recently bought him and he still isn't that well trained. I think something like this would help immensely. Chain Mesh Fencing Melbourne Chainmesh Security Fencing

At this stage, with the posts already bought, I would say concrete is the best way out. Dig holes twice the size of the posts, or more, two and a half feet deep and set the posts. Make sure the spacing is perfect, so the fencing fits properly. You may need spacers and supports to set the posts straight and true.
Set the posts high enough to support your fence. Sketch it out, the posts may not have to be as tall as the fence, they only have to reach the top horizontal board.

You could probably continue the vinyl fencing but that will cost a lot. You could always use a chain link fence which is really cheap and easy to install but it won't look right.

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A piste is the name given to the playing area used for fencing. A regulation sized piste is 14 meters long and between 1.5-2 meters wide. There are three types of piste - rubber, aluminum and metallic.

Beginner's dry fencing setup is around $150 including cotton jacket, gloves, dry weapon and a mask. If you willing to go pro the competitive setup cost around 800$ and includes 800N jacket, 1600N mask, at least 2 electric weapons, body cord, socks, glove, shoes, lame (sabre only), sensor (sabre only). The cost of joining a club vary but usually 100$ per year, some club even provide fencing kits for beginners.

your fence is not square with the blade..