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Whirlpool gr399lxg electric range/stove lights up but won't get warm

Took it apart to replace the control board panel (not the board itself). Mounted it back and now it doesn't work right anymore. Of all the switches, only the warmer actually works. With all the others, the lights come on but none of the stovetop elements, or the bake and broil, warm up. Also, nothing happens when I plug the stove in (no life or lights in the control board, but if I turn any switch, the board lights up as normal, but again nothing warms up except for the keep-warm element. Is this a thermal fuse issue or is it the control board? FYI, as I was taking the switches out initially, I did see a spark from the switch I was trying to push out.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Electric warming drawer will not heat

Found that there is an electrical connection at the point the main electric enters the back of the stove. There is a connector for the element that was not connected. Now it works!

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

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dmftrucker
  • 1922 Answers

SOURCE: no volage at element posts.

your missing one 120volt leg,check your fuse/breaker panel then again at input terminals at unit and make sure you have a good neutral connection

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: bake and broil top oven not functioning with system

Hello,

While the control board could be faulty, it is certainly not what I`d suspect initially. Do these symptom`s follow a self clean cycle of the upper oven ? Is your oven actually a SC302 double wall oven as the post header implies ?

I ask because the symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ).

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down.

Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s.

Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck.

macmarkus :)

Posted on Apr 02, 2010

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Gemini, MER6772BCB. Top

Hello, Welcome to FixYa. It won't matter as far as the immediare issue, but have you replaced the broil element yet? Now to address the dead clock/timer issue...does the timer have power going into it ? If YES, and there is no display and no other function, the timer is damaged. I would remove the timer at thst point (mark the wires, take a picture, something ) open it up and visually inspect the circuit board for burnt relays, diodes, and the like. Let me know what you find and I'll see what I can do. It sounds like a case of a damaged control though. Thanks for choosing FixYa and good luck. Regards, Macmarkus :) Regards, Macmarkus :)

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

emissionwiz
  • 76846 Answers

SOURCE: frigidaire DGES388DS2 electric single oven

Did you reset the house circuit breaker that supplies power to the oven?

Posted on Apr 24, 2012

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I get a start? when pressing start and oven wont come on my whirlpool electric oven


Terrence, Could be defective oven element, control board, etc. have a good tech. diagnose and estimate repair. Check the attached links trouble shooting,instruction and guides for electric oven, Good luck.
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
Whirlpool Oven Won Turn on
Troubleshooting Guide for Whirlpool Electric Range
http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Jul 29, 2016 | Whirlpool Ovens

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Whirlpool oven, stove and range fault codes (ERC and EOC display errors).


Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.

WHIRLPOOL - most models
Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.

F1 - Analog control board Failure
Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board
F1 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - Oven temperature sensor open
Replace oven temperature probe
F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Oven too hot
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Clean temperature too hot
Replace oven probe
F5 - Door latch switch fault
Test and replace the door switch.


Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:

F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop)
Replace control board
F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot
Replace temp. probe
F5 - E0 - Check door latch
F5 - E1 - Check door latch
Replace switch if defective

WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:

F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error
Replace ERC
F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error
Replace ERC
F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors
Replace ERC
F1 E4:2 - Model ID error
Reinsert keytail.
F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error
Replace ERC
F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error
Replace keypad assembly
F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged
reinsert the keytail
F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open
Test and replace top probe.
F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe.
F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F5 E0:14 Door switch errot
Test and eventually replace door lock switch
F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating
Test and eventually replace door latch
F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error
Test the cooling module.
PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault.
PF occurs when power is disconnected.

WHIRLPOOL
Models SF3, 30'' and 24"

F2 - Oven temperature above specifications
Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control
F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure
Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary
F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure
Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary
F5 - Push button stuck or faulty
Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel
F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing)
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor)
Replace ERC.
F8 - Electronic control logic error
Replace ERC.

on Jan 31, 2010 | Whirlpool RBS305PDS Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Mod# xfg374lvq stove: Both the oven and the broiler will ignite, but only stay on for a few seconds. It does not try to reignite. Is this the control module?


Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

The oven sensor: works with the oven control board to regulate the oven temperature. If there is an oven temperature problem, this sensor might be defective. The sensor can be tested by using an ohm meter. As temperature rises, the resistance measurement also rises. The manufacturer of the oven sensor determines the correct resistance, Oven temperature problems can be caused by other things, but this is one of the common causes.
Beware on some models now most of these ovens they are electronic and they are integrated into the control itself
some different sensor ohm readings at room temp. approx 16 ohms at room temperature and at 350?F it is 29~33 ohms.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start/



https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/18---/Oven-won-t-turn-on-





http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start Oven Won Turn on

Oct 09, 2013 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

Tried to Auto Clean. Got error message: Door -F-5. It started to warm up but would not lock. What to do? Manual not to be found in house. Oven is about 13-15 years old. First problem I have had.


Hello,

The F5 error code means that the control board has detected a error within itself and the control board needs to be replaced. The F5 error code can be cleared by pushing the cancel/off button but if the error code returns the control board would indeed need to be replaced.

FYI when ordering the control board it also may be called the clock or eoc


GENE

Sep 23, 2011 | Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

Oven won't heat, display out, gas burners on stove


Hello, you will probably need to pull it out and put it on something. Make sure the breaker is off to it before you test it. There is a thermostat in the very back that could be bad,check for continuity on that. Also check for continuity on the bake and broil element terminals itself,even though you have checked it to ground. If those check good,then the problems is in the control board.
Thanks



May 31, 2010 | Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

My oven when turned on goes to F1 and the heat is like broil...only the top burner comes on????


Hello,Please use the chart to determine which stove you have. You will have to look at the model number. The first 3 numbers will be the series on the chart. In most cases an F1 error would require replacement of the electronic control. This part is commonly refered to as an EOC or ERC. However this type of repair is usually reserved for repair specialists.

KENMORE Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes – 362 Series (General Electric)
F1 = Stuck Touch Pad Key - Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE - 911 Series (General Electric/Roper)
F0-F1-FF = Failed transistor in Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes- 665 Series (Whirlpool)
F1-E0 EPROM Error - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E1 EPROM Error - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E2 U/L ERC Errors - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E3 Fuel Type Fail

Kill power 30 seconds-Cancel-Start/Enter-5 seconds-Should see “E” for electric-
“9” for gas-If code changes again-replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE - 790 Series Electronic Oven Control (Frigidaire)
F1 = Shorted Touch Pad = Electronic Range Control (EOC) Internal check sum error.
Runaway Temp = Replace Electronic Oven Control (EOC).

Kill power 30 seconds - if error returns - replace Electronic Oven Control (EOC).

Thanks

May 28, 2010 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

2 Answers

Whirlpool oven stopped working after self cleaning


If the display still works but neither the Bake or the Broil elements wont heat up, it's likely that the Thermal Cutoff has opened and has not reset itself. This is a common problem after self Cleaning.
The fix is to replace the Thermal cutoff which requres you to pull the oven and remove the back panel to get at the thermal cutoff.
What happens is that in Self Clean, both Broil and bake elements are used and the oven gets so hot that the middle skin (between the oven liner and the back panel, where the thermal cutoff is mounted gets so hot the thermal cutoff operates. It should reset itself but sometimes doesn't and then you have to replace it.

Nov 17, 2009 | Whirlpool RBS305PD Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Electric warming drawer will not heat


Found that there is an electrical connection at the point the main electric enters the back of the stove. There is a connector for the element that was not connected. Now it works!

Feb 18, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

3 Answers

My kenmore electronic stove is having a beep with code F1 on the


Please use the chart to determine which stove you have. You will have to look at the model number. The first 3 numbers will be the series on the chart. In most cases an F1 error would require replacment of the electronic control. This part is commonly refered to as an EOC or ERC. However this type of repair is usually reserved for repair specialists.

KENMORE Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes – 362 Series (General Electric)
F1 = Stuck Touch Pad Key - Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE - 911 Series (General Electric/Roper)
F0-F1-FF = Failed transistor in Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes- 665 Series (Whirlpool)
F1-E0 EPROM Error - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E1 EPROM Error - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E2 U/L ERC Errors - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E3 Fuel Type Fail

Kill power 30 seconds-Cancel-Start/Enter-5 seconds-Should see “E” for electric-
“9” for gas-If code changes again-replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE - 790 Series Electronic Oven Control (Frigidaire)
F1 = Shorted Touch Pad = Electronic Range Control (EOC) Internal checksum error.
Runaway Temp = Replace Electronic Oven Control (EOC).

Kill power 30 seconds - if error returns - replace Electronic Oven Control (EOC).

Dec 15, 2008 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

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