Question about Whirlpool Ovens
Took it apart to replace the control board panel (not the board itself). Mounted it back and now it doesn't work right anymore. Of all the switches, only the warmer actually works. With all the others, the lights come on but none of the stovetop elements, or the bake and broil, warm up. Also, nothing happens when I plug the stove in (no life or lights in the control board, but if I turn any switch, the board lights up as normal, but again nothing warms up except for the keep-warm element. Is this a thermal fuse issue or is it the control board? FYI, as I was taking the switches out initially, I did see a spark from the switch I was trying to push out.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Found that there is an electrical connection at the point the main electric enters the back of the stove. There is a connector for the element that was not connected. Now it works!
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
SOURCE: no volage at element posts.
your missing one 120volt leg,check your fuse/breaker panel then again at input terminals at unit and make sure you have a good neutral connection
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
While the control board could be faulty, it is certainly not what I`d suspect initially. Do these symptom`s follow a self clean cycle of the upper oven ? Is your oven actually a SC302 double wall oven as the post header implies ?
I ask because the symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ).
Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.
With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down.
Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s.
Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck.
Posted on Apr 02, 2010
SOURCE: Maytag Gemini, MER6772BCB. Top
Hello, Welcome to FixYa. It won't matter as far as the immediare issue, but have you replaced the broil element yet? Now to address the dead clock/timer issue...does the timer have power going into it ? If YES, and there is no display and no other function, the timer is damaged. I would remove the timer at thst point (mark the wires, take a picture, something ) open it up and visually inspect the circuit board for burnt relays, diodes, and the like. Let me know what you find and I'll see what I can do. It sounds like a case of a damaged control though. Thanks for choosing FixYa and good luck. Regards, Macmarkus :) Regards, Macmarkus :)
Posted on Apr 11, 2011
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