Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
My Fisher & Paykel Model E402B Stainless Steel Fridge/Freezer has a problem. Bottom Freezer is OK but Refrigerator will not work properly, somtimes it will freeze everything now it just warm inside i have checked the the fan and the rubber holding it up has broken also the ice is frozen in the vents can you help i got someone in to fix it but he said it will cost around $600 as there might be more wrong with it, what do you suggest thanks Clare
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
SOURCE: Fisher Paykel Fridge Freezer
I have a Fisher and Paykel E442B upside down, which is a very similar model, and I just fixed the same problem (temperature was around -4C even though I set the fridge temperature as warm as possible).
The cause of my problem was excessive ice build up on the side of the evaporator coil (which is in the back of the freezer compartment behind the rear plastic panel). I had the same problem around a year or so ago, so I expect it to be a regular occurence. To defrost the coil, I removed all the drawers in the freezer, and the plastic insert by pulling out the bottom of the panel out and rotating it upwards until it released at the top. There are a couple of snap-in tabs holding the panel in, so with a bit of pulling they released. The tabs are either side of the slot at the bottom of the panel.
I then supported the panel horizontally on the top shelf so that I didn't have to disconnect the thermostat wire and the circulating fan wire.
With a small fan heater set on low, aimed roughly at the ice buildup on the left hand side of the evaporator coil, I defrosted the ice built up. This took around 2 hours or so. Then put it all back together and it worked fine.
I'm not sure why the ice build up on the side caused the problem, but presumably it interferes with the proper flow of cold air to the fridge compartment.
If you don't seem to have ice build up like I did, then it could be a thermostat problem, or a fan problem (a symptom of which would be fridge being colder at the bottom than at the top).
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
Yes hello, I had the same problem - similar fridge model. Mine was the fridge (not freezer) door handle ie. the upper door. There are no small holes on the bottom of my fridge handle. Working from the outer door edge, I gently prized loose the plastic trim located under the door. I didn't take it completely off, just loosened about one quarter of the length, enough to flex the trim downward so that I could then access the phillips head screw that secures the fridge handle from the inside of the door. The trim will prevent you from using a conventional screw driver to tighten the screw. I used a screw driver bit which is only 25mm long. It has an hexagonal end to which I applied a small spanner and voila - the handle is once more secure. Good luck.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel model RF610
The F24 error show that the sensor in the ice maker is out of normal ranges. The usual fix is to replace the sensor in the ice maker. Also worth checking it to see is the water to the ice maker has frozen up in the value (switch the fridge off for a day). If the error still exists after that you will need to replace the ice maker sensor. You have a 2 year warranty on these parts so the fix should be free.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
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