Odds are ignite, call Samsung and they can point you to a professional in your area to fix it.
I just had the same problem with my Samsung oven in April 2022. Stayed at 150 and had blinking blue light.
I tested the ohms and there was no issue. Also, the 220v was fine.
Here is the deal...
I looked carefully at the wires to the heating and broiling elements. They were basically fried and covered in carbon. Since I bought it used I do not know how it was treated previously, only that I am gentle on it.
So I pulled the connectors, and the wires came off easily. Once cleaned and stripped to a new area on the end of the wires I sanded down the terminals and crimped on new high heat spade connectors. (previously tried soldering and using tape, but too much heat, so I had to get back to basics).
After reconnecting, everything worked great! No parts needed, just about an hour of diagnosing and resetting wires to connectors. Maybe not quite an hr, but that is a good estimate if you have a hard time crawling around on the floor #middleAgedDIY
I have seen on the Samsung chat website, that this is a VERY common problem with Samsung gas ranges. So much so there is a string linking to a class action lawsuit based on this very common problem known to Samsung. Top burners work, broiler works, igniter burns red hot.....but nothing, just stays on 175 degrees preheat. One owner noted the ignition gas valve was replaced then it worked....for a period of time, then back to defective, lol.
He also noted the thin rubber bladder inside upon taking the old one apart, and noting that excessive heat in this area of the back of the oven would shut down the gas valve. I noticed that after I took the back aluminum cover plate (after unplugging oven), I checked all contacts for good connection, and magically the over worked 100%. Then i put the rear cover plate back in and slid into wall space...then same problem as before. I did this a few times with the same results in working/not working when putting back into place.
I noted the back panel had a smaller recess in the area of the igniter controlled gas valve, and my was dented. I bent out the dent, figuring this was the problem. So to ultimately trouble shoot it, as I noted the oven worked in place without the rear back. So seeing no safety hazard (in my opinion), I kept the rear back off, slid back the oven into place, and PRESTO, no oven problems!!! I therefor see this as a design flaw by Samsung, that they should have created a greater extruded cavity in their backing.
Hope this helps.....especially Samsung as if I am right they need to send out all Oven owners a newly designed aluminum back panel :)
Presto Rib in Vancouver, BC
Igniter check google
SOURCE: Maytag Gemini Double Oven-bottom temp problem
after power outage clock on oven will not set unless the oven itaelf is on unable to set clock
SOURCE: frigidaire electric range oven and top burners wont come on
It sounds like you only have one side of the 220v current coming into the range. I suggest checking the outlet feeding the range for proper power. The problem could actually be in your circuit breaker, only sending power via one of the conductors.
SOURCE: The top burners all work fine. When I turn on the
IF THIS IS A NEW STOVE THERE IS A VALVE IF YOU PULL OUT THE LOWER DRAWER AND LOOK WITH A FLASH LIGHT YOU WILL SEE A VALVE AT THE REAR OF THE STOVEAT THE LOWER LEFT OF THE VALVE THERE IS A TINY LITTLE HANDLE WHICH OPENS THE GAS TO THE OVEN FLIP THE LITTLE LEVER SO IT IS IN THE OPEN POSSITION, THERE ARE NO MARKS SAYING OPEN OR CLOSED AND THE LEVER IS VERY HARD TO SEE
TRY THIS AND SEE IF THE OVEN STARTS WORKING
SOURCE: i have a maytag pilotless ignition gas oven. the
Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
heatman101
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