Question about Blomberg Dishwashers
I switched from rinse agent to vinegar about 3 weeks ago.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Leaking dishwasher
Are you washing cereal bowls or mixing bowls on the bottom rack? If so, are you placing them in front? Sudden leaks that form huge puddles can often be attributed to improper loading of the dishwasher. Most dishwashers don't have a seal across the tub front. The door closes over it and does a pretty good job of deflecting water back inside the wash cavity. However, if you place bowls in the front on the bottom rack rack they can divert the water right over the tub lip and onto the floor. This is usually the culprit that causes most leaks in dishwashers. Now, if you don't think you have a loading problem, remove the kick panel on the bottom of the dishwasher and check the drain line and pump housing for leaks. Check the door gasket for tears or cracks. Lastly, feel inside the bottom of the door with your hand. You should be able to feel the door insulation. If it is wet, then the problem could be a leak around your soap or rinse-aid dispenser. Depending on the model, some dispensers are mounted to the door with a gasket behind it. Sometimes this gasket can form leaks. I hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 05, 2007
Checked that the motor was not seized by inserting slotted screwdriver through hole at back of machine to engage in slotted end of motor to spin up water circulating motor. Motor was not seized, so that was not the problem. Then took bottom off machine and on inspection found that the start capacitor which is bolted to side of motor was bulging and discoloured wher the terminals are. Replaced Start capacitor ( Less than £10.00) and machine motor started up. Machine behaved irratically at first, flashing lights etc.but got it to reset by switching on and off a couple of times, ran machine through cycle, now working ok.
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
SOURCE: Leaking dishwasher
I just had this same problem and it was caused by a small plastic seal on the bottom of the door. My friend owns an appliance store and he said this is a common problem for this model of dishwasher. The part was $68 and the labor was $60. I could have easily fixed it myself if I knew what the problem was but he came out and fixed it so I had to pay the $60 for the service call.
The part number on the repair bill is 14633F. I'm not sure if that's the frigidaire part number or the one from my buddy's inventory. Anyway, hope this helps.
Also, one other word of advice........use a little less soap and it won't suds up quite as high, which will help in the mean time.
Posted on May 22, 2008
This might help with disassembly. Mine was leaking also, but my main problem was no spray. Use my disassembly instructions to remove the pump/motor. If you notice that the leakage is from the pump and not a loose connection, remove the pump cover and apply a thin bead of Blue RTV sealant to the rubber ring. This stopped the leak in my pump.
My Danby dishwasher (DW) stopped working. The spray arm stopped spinning completely and very little water was coming out of the arm. When I removed the spray arm (CAUTION: reverse threaded, turn CW to loosen and CCW to tighten) and ran the DW, very little water was spraying out of the pump.
I thought maybe the pump was clogged. So, I followed the recommendations I had seen online about running a few cycles with Vinegar to clear the crud from the pump, but this did not help.
It seemed like the motor was operating, and there were no strange smells to indicate the motor was burned…just no water spraying. So I thought it must be the pump. Before disassembly, I tried to locate a replacement pump. I searched far and wide, both locally and online, and could not locate a replacement pump. So with nothing to lose, I decided to disassemble the DW, take a look and see what I could find. I am glad that I did.
The bottom line is that I disassembled the dishwasher and found that the plastic pump impeller had worked its way off the pump shaft and was not turning. I forced some Teflon plumbers tape over the shaft and forced the impeller back onto the shaft. The impeller has a flat spot to line up with the shaft and I pushed the impeller down on the shaft as far as it would go. I then used a small socket to fit over the shaft and GENTLY tapped the impeller for a final seating. I reassembled the dishwasher and it worked like a charm.
Since I could not find any service manual or instructions online for this DW, I thought I would share my disassembly/reassembly procedure.
Since my instructions are too long to post here, a complete repair document including a link to pictures can be found at:
Posted on Jul 27, 2008
I found out that there is a plastic panel that cools three draws inside the refrigerator. Behind the plastic panel there is an evaporator (coolant childer) that catches the condensation of repeatedly opening and closing the refrigerator door that turns into thick ice. Because of condensation, ice buildup in such a way that the ice pushes the middle draw out causing the door to open. In turn depending on how long the door stays open, melts the ice and the water leaks under the bottom draw out on either side of the front refrigerator door. Also, there is a drain plug that is also iced closed. To solve that problems, the unplug the refrig, put towel under the refrig, removed the panel (unplugging the wires and removing screws) and took a hair blow dryer to melt the ice. Oh, by the way, I used to blow dryer to melt the ice from the panel before I could remove the panel. That job took all day. I removed all the ice and reassembled the panel and replace the drawers. To my amazing, no more leaks and the water dispenser worked for two days and quit. I believed the water tank (plastic container in front of the panel has frooze again. By the way the ice maker did not work after removing the ice.
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
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