Question about Car Audio & Video
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: MOTHERBOARD WIRING
Instructions should be in the manual found here
They sound like they are for your from usb posts on case...but thats just a gues :)
Hope that sorts it for you?
Posted on Dec 30, 2007
have we spoke before in previous post?
the red can go to any 12v live peramanent such as wire to clock or other item that has power with ignition off and the same with the yellow if your putting these to the same permanent live say from clock you can join these to together red/yellow to red on clock
the black can go to any metal or neg wire.
This should then have your device working the only problem im looking at for you now is the pink wire as this stops you using the device whilst driving as it goes to handbrake but i need to find out if its live or negative.
You could just wire the red/yellow to live and black to earth then see if it switches on and works if not then let me know and ill see about the pink wire ok
Makes sure you use inline fuses on the live wires so as not to short the device out.
Make sure you know what is permanent live to put the yellow/red wire to.
It doesnt need to be ignition it only says this so you cant use it with ignition off but you can wire it into any live feed from clock or switches so its up to you what to wire it to its just the pink wire im concerned about.
PINK: does it tell you to put it to live or earth on handbrake switch?
let me know ok
Posted on Apr 21, 2008
hook up the red to red
black to black
green to bare wire
tie white wire to other whites in back of switch box in the wall.
If no whites in there cap it off with a wire connector.
Posted on Nov 03, 2008
The fault is probably at either end. Yes, it could have been reversed, but most radios are easily protected against this.
If you are getting no lights or anything when keying mic, then there may be an inline fuse along the cable. As you are getting continuity, open the case up, and look for any evidence of heat at the components nearest the power supply - particularly the protection diodes - Black cylinrical components with a silver band.
You really need a meter or scope to go in much further, and check supply voltages between components and -ve, and downloading a copy of the circuit diagram will help this.
The other main fault is usually the output power transistor - which needs a sink for all the power getting thrown at it. If you remove the antenna, it can quickly overheat and fail.
Both components can be checked in-situ for voltage (or not) but the output can only be tested with a scope.
Of course - the "on" light could have blown, so may be functioning without indications, - but I doubt it.
Also check Mic outputs on the plug to make sure that is working. Some units won't function if this is disconnected.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
You will have to have schematics from the old wiring diagram. Then you will have to confirm its consistency with actual old wiring before you can be sure that the wires run to the proper places on the old heater and a/c system. This sounds like a gas furnace and is simpler than a heatpump. Once you know what distinguishes the wires with the same color, you should label them and then you may call them a different color if they were wired with wrong wire colors. You may be in luck if you go to the furnace control box an look at the terminals.. They are usually labeled with a R for Red and W for white and Bl for Blue and B or Black. If you have other colors on these then it sounds that it was wired with wire spare wire by someone who knew what they were doing but neglected to leave a path for someone else follow.
You may be able to use a continuity tester of circuit tester to id these wires that are in question...
ie, once indintified, you can match with the requirements of the new stat.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
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