Question about Microwave Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if you open the cupboard door above the microwave you should see two or four screws/bolts holding the microwave up there. there should also be an electrical outlet up there where the microwave is plugged in. have at least two strong people. put some blankets on your stove top to protect it. unplug and remove the screws. it should be connected in back by a metal plate also. when the microwave is tilted down at a fourty five degree angle, you can give a little lift and it should pop off the plate in back. it is heavy. get a new one at sears or other appliance retail outlets. i dont recommend best buy. they really screwed me over so i dont send business their way.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
There should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel
or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
Some questions to help you or someone you know troubleshoot it:
When you hit "Start" to microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on?
If not, then you probably have a bad door switch or door switch mount and should see these files:
If the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable are all coming on, then the problem is in the high voltage section, and then the next questions arise:
Any unusual noises? Is it louder or quieter than usual?
We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.
A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can be bad without that sound.
If there's no unusual noise, it may just be a bad connection at the magnetron.
Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for high voltage section test help, but read the safety warnings first:
(if it is NOT shorted or burned looking, it's probably fine)
(continuity can be good even though mag is bad!)
You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.
I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.
Accessing some parts may require you to pull the oven from the wall and remove the cover.
If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have
two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Nov 29, 2009
Please stick with me to the end ... some examples are for example only. There is no 1000 watt circuit per'ci.
This will not be possible overload, this is an accident waiting to jump on you, my friend
Install dedicated circuits for these ovens, my friend. It will cost you a little but will be better than having dissatisfied guests or talking to the zoning board or boarding house authority or (gasp) the fire inspector after the fire.
If you don't do this, when the breakers start flipping off, tenants will run extension cords to outlets that have power. A whole different and worse, problem!
Rule of thumb, lighting circuits should be designed to operate at 80%, for example, if you have 800 watts of lights on a 1000 watt circuit, you are at the max.
So, there is a possibility that your circuit for lights is already near max. Adding ovens is trouble. Don't forget the iPOds and cell phone chargers as well as lap top chargers, walkman chargers (older students), little TV's, DVD players, clock radio's, electric shavers, curling irons, steamers, popcorn makers, lava lamps and occasional electric heaters that will be snuck into the room.
What is a 1000 watt circuit ... good question. Ohms law comes into play here.
Volts X Amps = Watts
120 volts X 8.333 amps = 500 watts (a smoothie blender) 300 watts (slow cooker) 200 watts (hand mixer) = 1000 watts.
A 15 amp circuit will protect #14 wire and can carry about 1800 watts (a toaster (1500 watts), for example).
A 20 amp circuit will protect #12 wire and can carry about 2400 watts (i am using a big paint brush here. these numbers are pretty close but not exact and I am not a licensed electrician.)
When I wire, I aim lots lower, preferring to OVER build than to under build.
10 amp circuits are rare in modern homes. In general practice, if the need was to be protected at 10 amps, the wire used in the circuit would be #14 and it would be protected by the breaker at 10 amps. In this case, it is the device plugged into this 10 amp circuit that needs protection rather than the #14 wire (which would be technically oversized)
Another consideration for you is where is the water? If you have an outlet that is 5 feet from a water source (bath - kitchen - etc) it must be protected by a GFIC
A 30 amp circut will protect #10 wire --- but this is not a normal household circuit.
Maybe the best option is for you to have your electrician install a sub panel in the vicinity of use and run several 20 amp circuits from that location to the various rooms.
The answer to your question "How many (1150 watt)micro wave ovens will a 20 (amp circuit handle)" is TWO with nothing else on the line. The National Code requires dedicated circuits for micro wave ovens, BTW. A commercial application may have a different (more stringent) standard in your town.
Thanks for the opportunity to answer your question and thanks for your interest in FixYa.com
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Posted on Dec 13, 2009
SOURCE: micro wave not working jen air
The Transformer is part number 56001221. I have run a search for the part and I am coming up with the same results, the pat is discontinued and no longer available.
Posted on Apr 24, 2010
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