Question about Samsung Refrigerators
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
My husband removed the covers inside the fridge which contain the lights and the cooling fan. The problem was the icing up of the cooling fan (which circulates the cold air) preventing it from rotating also the drain hole at the bottom of the fan was also iced up.
The fridge was switched off at the wall socket whilst working on it. After removing the panel containing the fan and unplugging the connection take the panel outside. A hair dryer was used to thaw out the ice. The drain hole was made slightly bigger to hopefully prevent this happening again.
When panel is screwed back in fridge make sure the black sealing tape is in position also take care not to damage cooling pipes which are attached to the evaporator unit. Defrosting a couple of times a year might prevent this happening again. It seems to be a design problem which im sure the makers will be aware of and modify future appliances. Q Will the makers repair this problem free of charge even if the warranty has expired !?
Posted on Aug 01, 2008
SOURCE: E4 Code
Between phone calls to danby and my neighbor, we fixed this problem. My E4 was on the left (lower chamber). If you have one on the right it is the upper chamber. The E4 is a defrost sensor that can be ordered from Danby's distributor (call Danby for the one in your area). The part and shipping were around $30.
If your E4 is on the left...
- remove the top shelves
- open the cover inside the cooler above the digital read outs (the top unscrews)
- inside is were the repacement sensor plugs in
- replace the one with the long cord
- run the sensor down the back to the lower chamber
- replace all covers and parts
If the E4 is on the right...
- remove the top shelves
- look on the right hand wall for a black plastic grate, the sensor is under this grate
- replace the sensor (simple plug and play)
- replace the racks.
Please pass this on, it was a ***** to deal with Danby and I nearly trashed the cooler out of sheer frustration.
Posted on Jan 01, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
Hi, there is a known fault with the Samsung RS21 units. If you unit is less than 5 years in luck, it is covered by the Extended warranty they have put in place. Apparantly this was featured on BBC watchdog!. i've had the same problem and had it fixed free of charge by Samung. Either raise a service request on the Samsung uk web site, www.samung.com/uk or call the customer services on 0845 7267864 and explain you description. the noise is an ice build up which stops the internal fan pushing cold air around the fridge. the bootom of the fridge , in the drawers is cold?
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 05, 2015 | Heating & Cooling
May 29, 2015 | Carrier Heating & Cooling
Jan 22, 2015 | Kenmore Refrigerators
Oct 06, 2014 | Samsung Dishwashers
Nov 18, 2010 | Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator
Oct 22, 2009 | Samsung Refrigerators
Jul 14, 2009 | Samsung Refrigerators
96 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!