Question about Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

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Thick Gear-like oil leaking from the bottom somewhere

Our Kenmore washer has begun leaking thick gear-like oil(yellow) when we let it sit for around 24 hours. The washer still runs well with no noticable problems

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  • 133 Answers

Looks like your washer is developing a leak from the seals in the drum thus allowing some water to seep into the bearings get it checked before the bearings run out completely

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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I replaced the tub/motor coupling on my Kenmore model # 110.26912690 washer. I laid the machine on its back, while waiting for the parts, which came 3 days later. I noticed some thick oil had leaked...


Your oil is more than likely from the washer's "transmission". like your car, the washer employs a similar set up in order to change from "agitate' to "spin", etc. the oil is necessary to the operation, and the extended time (3days) on its side allowed some to leak out. Unfortunately, the only sure-fire way to tell if you still have enough oil will be to have a repair tech look it over and add if necessary. for future reference, if you ever think you need to tip your unit over, you'll have to be very quick about it, and if it needs parts, stand it back upright while you wait.

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If it is running but not cooling enough the problem is in the sealed system.

If you started it up just after hauling it home it may have be moved around enough to get oil in the systems smaller tubing causing problems. Unplug the unit for 24 hours and let it sit. Try it again for 24 hours and see if it cools.

If not this means either there is a refrigerant (freon) leak in the system or a restriction causing the refrigerant to not flow properly.

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I take it this a manual gear box and the seal you refer to is the pinion output shaft seal? It sounds like your gear box has a severe fault, maybe a chewed up bearing and this is causing the output shaft to precess which will open up a small gap with with the seal allowing fluid to exit. When the seals were changed what did the transmission oil look like?. Was it opaque and murky - it should be clear and red. Drain the gear box and collect the fluid through a muslin cloth and then insert a finger in the drain plug hole and feel around the base of the gear box. If there is a thick layer of fine grey paste on the gear box bottom plate this is bad sign it is casing material. Does the muslin cloth contain any particulates of hard metal, theses are fragments of case hardened gear teeth. If so the gear box is done for and will need replacing. It might be possible to repair the box but the chances very much are that getting a good used one from a reputable breaker will be much cheaper. Always do the finger check on a gear box when drained of fluid - the stuff that sticks to your finger will tells you a lot about the general condition. A good gear box free of wear has no deposits.

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You are asking what can be done to shift your manual tansmission easier ?
I would say if you are "grinding" gears, The clutch will A) have to be repaired, or B) a syncro has gone out in the trany.

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What the heck did he think he was putting in the tank? Gear oil is very thick and heavy, so the fuel pump may have a problem as it is meant to pump gas, which is not thick and heavy like gear oil. There was probably some gear oil in the tank while the pump was operating, and it pumped some gear oil for a short time, which damaged it. Insist that the 'mechanic' replace the fuel pump at no cost to you ,and find a new mechanic for future repairs. Good luck.

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You lost a seal in the gear-box, needs a new one, burning rubber smell is from the belt slipping and the gear-box being low on oil giving too much resistance on the belt.
Don't run it until you solve the oil leak and refill with oil

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