Question about Refrigerators
If the start cap/relay is good along with the thermostat, then, yes, the compressor is fubar.
But before you replace the compressor you might just want to check out the price of a new one box - might very well be cheaper than cost of repair - they will soak you on the compressor part and then nail you with the labor.. Trust me.
Posted on Apr 15, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same issue pop up on me on one of these units that was only days old---the folks at maytag told me there were no known issues on these units (recalls, etc) so I figured the blinders were on and stonewall going up. So I got a multimeter, cracked the case on the unit, checked for continuity through the motor windings, and found none. Then pulled the lower squirrel cage apart enough to get the fan off motor shaft, motor out and apart, and found a blown thermal fuse in the motor. $1.69 at Radio Shack and a crimp connector or two and Ahhhhhh, cold air again. Not that hard to do folks! Enjoy.
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
SOURCE: I have a mini fridge
I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.
Your question is: You have a mini fridge at school, a small Haier. Your fridge is getting power and the motor gets very hot but the fridge is not cooling, not even a little... any ideas???
May be low on freon or cloged expantion valve. You're going to need a certified tech to check and repair. Maybe it's time to look at the cost of repair verses replacement.
Feel free contact me again!
Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off
Harvey your Master Plumber
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
Look In the rear bottom where the wires plug into the compressor. There will be a plastic cover plate over the connecting wires. Remove it. Unplug the white wire. note the white wire was plugged into a small black box (3/4"x3/4") pull the black box out. It is connected by 2 prongs. If you open this up you will find a small metal disk that looks like a watch battery. pop it out and clean the contacts. put it all back together and it should work fine. I believe it is the thermostat and many times gets bad contacts and can even crack over time. The compressor will "click" on but the bad thermostat tells it "no"
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
I would look for another outlet for you to plug it in before you start anything elaborate. I assume you've done this already but spin the motor/blade. If it spins and there is little or no play in the shaft or blades causing a blade to bind up the mechanical part seems ok.
Now if you have a volt meter First check the motor for voltage, Then if you have voltage, compare it to the rating on the motor. Usually a voltage within 10% is ok. Next test resistance on the wires of the motor any resistance and the winding is probably okay. If not then the motor is out again. If you have lost voltage the control board is your next part to test. No voltage out to the motor there on the board plug and the board is the problem Power there woudl mean the motor has too high a resistance and Id check the resistance on a differant known good motor before replacing it. just so you know where you started.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
Have you been hearing a clicking noise coming from behind the unit? This is the first indication of a failed compressor relay. Pull the unit out and unplug it. Remove the back cover and go to the compressor. You will find a device on the side of the compressor that has the wires hooked to it. This is the compressor relay and overload. It may be under a black cap. Remove the cap to access it. It may have 2 pieces to it or it may just have the 2 pieces encased in a white and tan box. Remove this box and shake it. If it rattles like gravel in it then it is bad. If it is in 2 pieces then it will have a brown relay. This is the piece that will rattle if bad. The white and black piece with one wire is the overload. They most never go bad. Use this replacement part kit...8201786 and follow the detailed instructions included in the kit. Thanks for the question. Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
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