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New carb, spark plug,gas line fine, will not start. What next?

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 226 Answers

SOURCE: Craftsman Chainsaw will not start

It's your ignition, which you can take that stuff apart on the left hand side of the saw under the recoil. I have 2 of these, & you can get the parts. Maybe its just the magneto gap adjustment, which is like a business card or newspaper width gap. I would check that first. Hope this helps you, Rick

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: I have a honda mtd pro 11a-588q795 push mower and

Hello:

>>The Following is a Simple Way to make Sure the Engine is Getting Gas from the Carburetor to Run.
>>Pour a Small Amount of Gas (approximately 1oz) into the Carburetor Throat and Try to Start the Engine.
>>If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Check the Carburetor Solenoid.
>>If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good or has been Removed and the Engine will Start and Quit when the Gas is Poured into the Carburetor Throat, then Soak and Clean the Carburetor.
If the Carburetor is the Cause, then
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then
>>**Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk).
>>The Primer Bulb is Held in Place with a Locking Collar at the Base of the Primer Bulb. Use a Small Flat Screw Driver and Carefully Pry the Lock Ring Up in Small Amounts All Around the Lock Ring until the Lock Ring and Primer Bulb can be Removed from the Carburetor Body. Usually a New Primer Bulb is Required when you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Rubber is Usually Rotted to Much for the Primer to be Reused.
>>Your Primer Bulb May Differ Slightly, but Removal is Usually Almost the Same Except for the Primer Bulbs that are Bolted to the Carburetor. These are Simply Unbolted and Changed with the new Primer Bulb.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also.
>>The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool.
>>Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable).
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower/Engine at this Site Addy, http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=ASP&lang=EN&TF=Mainframe&LoginID=hywd&loginpwd=hywd&Partner=HYWD and Select the Catalog American Honda.
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Unit at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM (MTD) and Enter the Model Numbers (). Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Now you can Select the Section of the Unit you Wish to View.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck

Respectfully

John

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: poulan wood shark 1950 wont start spark plug has

Try to squirt a little gas in the carb and see if it pops or tries to run for a short time. The diaphram in the carb is probably old and hard. That would be the first place I would look.

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

rwvanlue
  • 486 Answers

SOURCE: Craftsman gas leaf blower will not start. Spark

Basics to check:
1) Spark plug - brown or dark brown - OK
a) is it carbon or fuel fouled
b) is there spark

2) Muffler remove for inspection
a) exhaust screen clean or plugged
b) inspect cylinder wall/piston as the flywheel is slowly rotated
3) Check cylinder compression


Fuel starvation - 'lean fuel' condition
Basic things to check:
1) spark plug
2) spark arrestor in muffler
3) fuel lines and tank filter
4) turn adjustment needles out (counterclockwise) 1/4 to 1/2 turn
Chain Saws:
5) check impulse tube and intake boot for cracks or leaks
*if all of the above are OK and/or do not improve performance then:
Remove Carburetor
6) replace gaskets/diaphragms
a) use a spray carb cleaner to clean jets, holes, and body of carb
b) fuel pump diaphragm goes against the carb body,
then the gasket towards the outside
c) metering gasket goes against the carb body,
and the diaphragm goes towards the outside

Posted on Nov 26, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: my 8n ford wont start with new carb, points,

I have also changed my plugs, points, cleaned carb, but I can not get the tractor to fire at the cylinders. I have spark but will not crank. What do I need to do?

Posted on Jun 26, 2010

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Take the spark plug out and see what it looks like. If it's dark, sooty or wet smelling like gas, then you have a spark problem. Might need new plugs, a new coil or charging the battery up.
If the spark plug is dry and is a light tannish, brownish color than your problem is not getting gas. If that's the case, take off the fuel supply line to make sure you have gas to the carb. If that is fine, then you might need to take the carb a part to make sure you don't have plugged jets or passageways in the carb itself. If you want to find out quick, you can squirt a little gas into the carb intake and see if the the engine pops off. That will tell you as well.

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carb float/needle sticking opening the carb drain will provide evidence if fuel is reaching fuel bowl, if fuel is present then i would suspect the carb is gummed up and it will need to be cleaned ( all jets/passages ) another area could be that the gas cap vent/line is plugged not allowing fuel to flow by gravity feed.

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Two things which may be the problem: 1) carb need to be rebuilt or replaced, and 2) you need a new spark plug. The carb with shipping is around $50.00 from sears ( http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Grass-trimmer-weed-wacker-Parts/Model-3167918602008/0247/1503820/P0805032/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod= ) A sparkplug can be had at any small engine repair shop and most auto parts stores for less than $5.00 Start with the cheap solution... Also make certain you have fresh gas and that the oil mix is correct.

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Take a spray bottle and spray gas into the carb and see if it starts.If it starts you more than likely have a carb problem. first thing check and make sure gas is flowing to carb. Take the line off at the carb and see if gas flows through the line. If you have gas to the carb you will have to take carb off and clean it out and check to see if float is stuck closed.you might want to put a rebuild kit in it while it,s apart.

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Poulan wood shark 1950 wont start spark plug has


Try to squirt a little gas in the carb and see if it pops or tries to run for a short time. The diaphram in the carb is probably old and hard. That would be the first place I would look.

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Remove the spark plug and squirt a little bit of the fuel from the gas tank into the spark plug hole, replace the spark plug and crank it over several times.

If it runs, or tries to run... that tells you that your engine, ignition system and gasoline are good (or atleast good enough to get it started)

Next check your fuel line and the primer ball. Make sure that when you pump the primer ball that you can see it pumping fuel through the fuel lines in ONE direction only. (It's kind of hard to see, you might have to start the test with empty fuel lines).

If that fails, you need a carb kit because that's where the check valves are. (unless your primer ball is cracked, broken, or clogged)

Next check the metering diafram and needle in the carb. If the diafram is hard (not easily flexible) or if the needle valve is stuck shut the engine will not be able to get the fuel that it needs to run.

If the Needle valve is stuck, just clean it and it'll most likely be fine.

If the diaphram is hardened, you need a carb kit.

If all the above is ok and it still doesn't work... check the gasket at the base of the carb to make sure that the posative pressure pulses from the crankcase are able to make it through the little holes into the carb (that's how it pumps fuel into the carb).

That's pretty much all the easy stuff. Keep in mind that a new carb only costs about $28 at most places.

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