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Have an older 3.5hp B&S engine with vertical shaft on a unico front tine tiller. no numbers on the engine. it is overhead valve and aluminum housing. looking for schematic with parts list

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Manual or parts list for Moto-Mower Front Tine Tiller Model 500

Hello:

>>You can Use the Site Addys at this Site Addy; http://www.yetmans.mb.ca/antiques.html to Search and Locate New/Used Parts or for Manuals for this Unit.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck

Respectfully

John

Posted on May 10, 2009

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SOURCE: I have a Troy Bilt Tuffy Tiller H30-35387S Ser

You've got the right serial number - it appears you've got one of the older Tuffy's. I'd suggest keeping an eye on Ebay for the manual you're looking for. I find them out there with some regularity. You can't get them from a dealer anymore because this Tuffy was sold by Troy Bilt before they went bankrupt and MTD bought the assets.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Tine shaft removal for mantis 2 cycle tiller

Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!

Posted on May 21, 2010

  • 4736 Answers

SOURCE: I have an older Front

I did a little research and found that Sears Parts Central has the parts to rebuild the carb. In addition, I also located the Owners and Parts Manual for your Model. I am providing a link to it, so that you can take a look at it and decide which parts you may need to rebuild. Also, they stock a rebuild kit, if that's more inline with what you can do on your own.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/27529/CRAFTSMAN-Front-Tine-Gas-Tiller-L0311230?brand_name_search=917291481+CRAFTSMAN

Since you sound pretty handy, I don't think you'll have a problem rebuilding it.

Posted on Apr 06, 2011

  • 316 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove the tine shaft on a Mantis Tiller/Cultivator?

hello sir, Please provide the following information so that your issue may be diagnosed properly,what is it? brand name,complete model number The problem, What is happening with what? When it is happening? Are there times it does not happen? Did it just start happening? Did it ever work ? Did any seemingly unrelated event coincide with whatever it is not working? need the model number and brand name, if you need a manual i need the brand name and model number,if it is a riding mower the model number is under the seat.a snow blower the model number is on the rear of the machine, let me know,thank you. 11

Posted on Feb 21, 2012

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1 Answer

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-Check the locking bolt that hold the tine shaft to the main shaft. Possibly it's broken. If so replace new bolt. you should be good to go again.


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You've got the right serial number - it appears you've got one of the older Tuffy's. I'd suggest keeping an eye on Ebay for the manual you're looking for. I find them out there with some regularity. You can't get them from a dealer anymore because this Tuffy was sold by Troy Bilt before they went bankrupt and MTD bought the assets.

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The serial number is located on a flat spot just above the right wheel shaft where the gear housing and the top gear cover meet. It will be a six digit number stamped in the metal.

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Put it in gear and as soon as it has a load it stops tines and wheels. Has trans grease, and have tried to tighten belt by the two side adjustments but it will not move? It is an older tiller Kohler engine...


It sounds like the key that holds the pulley on the front of the tiller transfer case has sheared into. Carefully remove the belt safety cover so the belts are exposed and start the tiller. With a flashlight look at the pully on the lower shaft and shaft area. Carefully engage the tines and see it they are turning. With a second person visually, from the side, inspect the pulleys to make sure they are turning. Now carefully load the tines and see if the pullies of shaft stop turning. If the shaft stops and the pulleys keep turning then the key on the shaft has sheared off. If both keep turning then you have something that has broken or sheered in the transfer case. This type of inspection is dangerous and needs to be done at a distance with a flashlight so you can see down in the shaft area when standing off to the side while someone loads the tines. It is very difficult to try and see if the shaft is sheered in the pully as is the case without the engine running. The key has friction and it is difficult to turn the tines with the drive engaged to the engine. The only other option is to disassemble the transfer case to see what has gone bad. Please be careful testing it. Good Luck, RAC

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Trans oil! 90 or 140 wt.
I use 140 in my older tiller.
G

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