Question about Frigidaire Affinity ATF7000E Front Load Washer

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How do I check for 120 VAC at the drain pump? I know where the drain pump is, Im just not sure how to check for 120VAC

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First you need a voltmeter

Set that to AC volts in the 200v range

Clip the black or blue lead to the earth post (thats the one with all of the green wires clamped on it)

Put the red or brown wire from the meter onto the brown or red wire of the pump (For safety you need to use an alligator clip or spring clip tipped probe to make the connection)

Switch the machine on to the pump cycle and you should read 120v .

Unless you have an electrical background I would not recommed that you work inside a machine which is live.

Posted on Jul 24, 2009


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I would recommend trying several of these steps that are within your comfort level. If the problem persists, it may best be solved by a licensed repairman.

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1 Answer

The drum turns but no heat. I have checked the house fuse and it is OK. I see there is a fuse but don't know how to get to it.

I'd get a volt meter set on VAC.
Unplug dryer and using volt meter to measure following voltages at the wall :
"Top Left" to "Center Bottom" = 120vac
"Top Right" to "Center Bottom" = 120vac
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I suspect one of the 120vac legs is out by not providing the heat.
If one of the 120's is gone then its one side of a circuit breaker or a fuse thats blown.

If all voltages are present...then you'e looking at an element or thermal protection device on the element side.

Hope this helps.

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1 Answer


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I have a whirlpool front loader...not sure of the style number at the moment...but about a month ago the clean pump light came my partner and dad drained the filter at the front down the bottom and...

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May 30, 2009 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

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Error code E21

E21 Water not pumping out fast enough. .
Check for Restriction in drain pump or hose...
No restriction. Go to step (2).

2. Start the washer and check for 120 VAC at the
drain pump. if no voltage Replace the control board.
120 VAC. Remove the pump and check for
blockage. If blocked, remove the restriction,
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1 Answer

Whirlpool Dryer LER7646EQ1 Not heating

If your drive motor is turning, but your timer and heating circuits are not working, it sounds like you could be missing one leg of your 220 service. The dryer timer and heating circuits utilize the full 220 from the receptacle, while the drive motor only uses 120 VAC. Unplug your dryer and check the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240 VAC across the two hot leads (these are the two large slots). The wires are BLACK - L1 & RED - L2. If you only read 120, check each slot to the NEUTRAL slot (white wire) to determine which one is missing. Chances are, you may have a break in the L2 (red wire) line. Here's the wiring scheme depending in which type of power cord you may have:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.
GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Please doublecheck and let me know. If your source voltage is correct, perform continuity checks from the end of the power cord to the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Inspect for any burned or broken wires. If you are not able to isolate a problem at this point, please post back and let me know. I can assist you further. I hope this helps.

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