Question about GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

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Is it easy to replace the keypanel of the GE

I have a GE profile JKP56BOD1BB oven.THe keypanel is giving error F7 and F1 constantly. I called a tech he said the key panel is defective and had to replace. The total labor and replacement cost total approx 450$. I am trying to see whether if I buy the part then can it be easy to fix it or not by myself.

Thanks
Tapas

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Hello, The simple answer is yes it's not too hard...Normally you have a couple of screw located underneath the control panel. In most mordern ovens today they just consist of 2 components, the EOC (Electronic oven control) and the touch pad which basically cosists of everything you see(the whole panel). If you are replacing the touchpad..remove screws holding old panel in...pull wire harness from control board (dont worry where they go because the will only fit in one place) remove tape from EOC and relocate the control board to the new touchpad panel...reattach wire harness and tape in the new touchpad panel and hook back on oven ..screws in and your good to go. if replacing the control board (EOC) drop touch pad panel from oven and pull wires install new control then reassemble..easy!. One thing i would check though before purchasing the part, check to see it is the touchpad and not the control board...Here is how to do it...shut breaker off...pull out control panel...remove ribbon for key pad from EOC the re install panel..go switch breaker back on. leave for 24 hours..if within the 24 hours the error messages come back it's the EOC that is bad, if the error messages do not come back then you can be sure it's the touchpad. I would check this before buying the part since they are expencive and offten non returnable. Good Luck!! If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Thanks for using Fixya!! Mike

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Glen giaquinto Aug 17, 2012

    I am having the same problem and did what you advised above. I do no get the f7 message anymore but instead now get F0 with the ribbon connected. Does this mean the key panel needs replacement?

  • RENEE GOUGH
    RENEE GOUGH Oct 13, 2013

    Help! I have fixed my control panel many times, but this time I just cannot get the panel to fit flush to the wall. Any tips?

  • RENEE GOUGH
    RENEE GOUGH Oct 13, 2013

    By the way, if like me, you continuously get the F7 code error on your control board, this quick fix works great! I had followed another user's advice to put a bit of card inside the ribbon to absorb humidity (cause of error code). Did that a few times and it worked great but kept breaking again. My son's teenage friend said to me over a bowl of spaghetti "hey, why don't ya just put a paper towel in there?" VOILA! It has worked SO well! (folded and fitted neatly inside that ribbon). From the mouths of babes!

  • RENEE GOUGH
    RENEE GOUGH Oct 13, 2013

    These f7 code issues are from the GE double oven. Much cheaper than buying a new control panel at $350! Or a new oven at $2,500! Or calling someone out. Paper towels. Genius!

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GE profile oven 326B1230P001 error code F7 will not go off. what does it indicate?


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Hi,
According to the GE website, F1 usually means a problem with the keypad. You might try my solution for the F7 problem which is similar in nature. Go to the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/howto/h155060-dreaded_f7_error

I have shared my solution with more than 1900 folks and most report success.

Please let me know if it works for you at:

hutchipop@yahoo.com

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try fix at http://www.fixya.com/howto/h155060-dreaded_f7_error
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The convection fan comes on intermittently, starts smoking then goes off. Temperature on the display doesn't move from 100F (then it did). My wife left the door closed while it was on broil last night (not sure how long), and this morning I woke up to the smell of burnt electrical and something (one of the fans...? not sure as it was far earlier than I usually get up) running that stopped when I opened the oven door and restarted when I closed it (I'm thinking it was probably running all night). While at work, I turned the breaker off, then pulled the oven out this evening. After taking some of the metal plates off, I put the power back on and turned the oven on for a 450F bake. I don't know if the little cooling fan at the top of the unit is supposed to go on when I have the top exposed and getting plenty of air; it wasn't and it also had a faint burnt electrical smell. After disconnecting then plugging the fan power connector to the circuit board the fan ran for 10-15 seconds before it started smoking and quit. I checked voltage across the fan leads and there wasn't any. I shut the oven off, tripped the breaker, and let it cool. I then tried testing the fan motor directly i.e. bypassing the oven and using a regular outlet since the motor is rated for 120V. It ran for ~1 minute, then smoked and quit. The smoke is definitely coming from the fan rather than any adjoining wires. Is this a case of the fan AND the control board going south or one contributing to the other's demise? I should add that the clock display has been dimming for a couple of years. UPDATE (2/20): I tried just baking (as opposed to convection baking) and the bottom element did come on (I'd reported earlier that it hadn't... that was because I was using convection baking and that does only heat around the fan... just my ignorance on that one). However, the temperature readout on the display did not move from 100F though it was clearly hotter than that in the oven. I then stopped the baking mode and started convection baking. This time the temperature gauge immediately went to 141F and kept climbing. Resistance at the (room temp) temperature sensor (and at the end of the wiring harness plugged into the control board was ~1100 ohms at room temp (as its supposed to be).

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