Is there a support for lower oven element a peace of metal/ or it seats on the inside of the oven bottom,on own curve?

Unscrew the handle and screws at the bottom. Carefully separate the outer panel from the frame

I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.

I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg.
Jim B Roseville, CA.

Hi Ron.

Unfortunately I do not have the schematics for this specific model. The fan assisted oven has a top grill element and an element in the fan housing. The fan housing is located inside the oven cavity at the back and protected by a cover held by 4 screws. Here a video showing how to replace the fan assisted element. If there is also a lower element at the bottom of the cavity, this can be reached removing the panel at the bottom of the oven. Here a video showing replacement of the bottom element.

i would not trust it there is chemicals inside the heating element along with metal particals that you can get in your food... sorry ,but better eat out tonight.... good luck to you...

I had this problem a year ago (both elements worked in top oven but only broil element worked in the lower of the dual ovens). I swapped elements around but the problem was still the bottom element bottom oven.

So I called the repairman. He replaced the relay board (Part #AP2127301) for the lower oven, and it worked again. Yippee.

But now a year later, I have the exact same problem. Lower element on lower oven is not working (Frigidaire you have got to be kidding)!

However this time I decided to take a look at the relay board myself, to at least save the expense of the repairman. I looked closely at the board and thought I saw a cold solder joint on relay K4. But just to be safe I touched up all the connections on all the relays with flux and a soldering iron.

Works perfectly again !!

Please if you try this, disconnect the power first. In fact if I had to tell you that, then just call somebody.

You will probably find that the element for the lower oven has expired. They sometimes do go in a shower of sparks. I once had an element on a hob explode in my face and a small lump of red hot metal flew up and just missed me.
It is easy to get to the circulatin fan and element, you just have to remove the 4 self tapping screws in each corner of the fan/element cover for the cover to come off. If the element has burnt out as you say you should see some evidence of burn marks/holes on the element.
The bad news is that you will have to take the whole oven out of the housing to remove its top and back to gain access to the element retaining nuts and the wiring to unclip/reclip it.
Try espares for a replacement element and if it was a major bang when it went, you should consider replacing the thermostat as well as this is often damaged by the element going.
(The thermostat is the long thin metal rod in the top right hand corner of the oven and is connected to the control by a very thin fragile pice of wire - be careful)!

Usually no internal fuses, and most of the time the controller is rated for fault interupt current.... age will degrade them though...

How did you change the element without pulling out the stove? is it a 'click/plug' in? might be that the socket is messed up...

You should not have to disassemble the cabinet, should just be a few screws and the unit slides out... sometimes hidden behind small movable pannels..

Peace

When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.

You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.

There is a short circuit between the lower oven control and the lower element.
Disconnect the lower element. Put electrical tape on the loose terminals and turn the lower oven on.
If it does not blow, replace the lower element with a new element.
If it does blow, Check the wiring to the lower element for continuity to the frame of the range.
If you get continuity replace the damaged wire..
Finally, check the control knob switch for continuity to ground on the frame of the oven.

I replaced the relay board for the top oven (the one with the transformer) and it works properly now. My issue was only for the top oven so you probably have to replace both relay boards since both ovens have only the top element working.

318022002 is the part number for the relay board with transformer
318022001 is the part number for the relay board without transformer

Yes the one without the transformer is more expensive for some reason.

The boards are on the top of the oven, I was able to pull out the oven about 75% of the way out of the cabinet and easily get to the boards. Just unplugged the connections and plugged them into the new board.

To get the oven out there are two small screws that go into brackets inside the top oven door. Highly recommend taking the doors off the oven to pull it out, much easier to work with.

NOTE: On my old board I noticed one solder joint that was burned out and I since I already had the new board I just replaced but you might want to check that first and see if just a solder fix gets you working again before you spend $$ on a new board.