Question about Freezers
I HAVE AN ICER ETTE ICE MACHINE 220V.
IT WILL KICK ON AND FREEZE AND MAKE ICE, BUT ITS BEGUN TO STOP WORKING AT WILL! IT WILL MAKE ICE AND KEEP IT COLD BUT BY MORNING THE COPMRESSOR GETS HOT AND WONT COOL AND THERES A PUDDLE OF H2O IN THE ICE BIN WHERE THERE WAS ICE THE NIGHT BEFORE. THERE NO DEFINATIVE NUMBER OF CYCLES BEFORE IT STOPS WORKING?
THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP OR SUGGESTIONS YOU CAN SEND MY WAY.
HAVE A GREAT MORNING.
A symptom of low refrigerrant is that the evaporator coil will develop a small very cold area but wont cool the entire surface .. that cold area can ice up and block air flow .. the result can be an overworked compressor with little or no cooling ... other things that can cause the same trouble
1. bad or blocked air flow on the external coils or condenser fan ..
2. a leak in the door seal will allow moisture that can cause icing
if there is icing then you can turn it off with the door open until the ice melts .. then start over ..
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
The normal setting for a freezer is -2 to +2 degrees F., and the normal setting for the fresh food section is +35 to +40 degrees F.
You only have one source of cooling and that is your freezer. With the settings that you have, you are asking your unit to do what it is not designed to do.
The ice maker is struggling because if it is a cast steel ice cube mold, the heater beneath it is not designed for the current to break the ice cubes free @ -18 degrees F., or if you have a plastic flex ice cube mold it is too ridged to flex enough to break the ice cubes free. Normally your ice maker should dump 8-10 times in a 24 hour period.
A note on food storage. Make sure you do not overload your freezer of fresh food section to the point where food product extends beyond the edge of the shelves.
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