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I have power to all components on my dryer, but it doesn't heat, does this mean I have a bad heating element?

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  • jsutherland6 Jul 24, 2009

    I just have a regular tester, that test 120 and 240. do I need an ohm meter to do all this testing or can I just make sure there is power to everything?

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Well, not exactly. you will need to check the thermal fuse before replacing the element in this case. Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Ok, if the fuse checks out ok and, the vent is clear, you will need to test the heating element before replacing it. you will want to confirm the failure of the element. the test procedure is below.

Ok, you will need to set your multimeter to resistance and take the heating element out. Put one lead of the multimeter onto each terminal of the heating element. You want a reading that is not 0 or -1. If you get a 0 or -1 your dryer's heating element is bad. Also, there may be a thermostat issue as well. this will interrupt the heat.


Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.

If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.

A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again.

The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.





Posted on Jul 24, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 24, 2009

    Unfortunately, you will need a formidable Ohm meter for the testing of the element and thermostat as well. this is very important for proper testing and readings as well.

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1 Answer

My whirlpool dryer comes on and runs good but it wont get hot can you tell me whats the problem


Hello there and welcome to fixya there are several things that could make this dryer not heat up
Here are the most common things

Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn\'t heat, but the drum
turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer
from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is
blown, it will have to be replaced.




Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.

Help me find my model number


Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric
solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner
assembly. If the dryer doesn\'t heat one or more of the solenoids may be
defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame
doesn\'t light, replace these coils as a set.


Dryer Igniter


If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the igniter might
be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer
igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can
burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element should be
checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must
be replaced if defective.


Heating Element Assembly

the heating element assembly on an electric
dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element
assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly
cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.

Flame Sensor



Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the
heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the flame sensor
might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not
as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


High Limit Thermostat


Although not common, if the dryer doesn\'t
heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for
continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn\'t heat.


Cycling Thermostat




The cycling thermostat regulates the
temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn\'t heat it may be
caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at
fault when the dryer doesn\'t heat. Check all of the other components in
this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The
main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is
defective.


Timer
The timer is normally not at fault if the
dryer doesn\'t heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they
end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this
troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer

Oct 14, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer will not heat up


Hello there and welcome to fixya
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is burned out, Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out,

Oct 24, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

My kenmore series 500 dryer does not heat up


The closest model number reference I could find for what you have provided is "110.69522800". If this model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fK0809032-00003.png


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 14)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 1)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 34)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 40)
Thermal Fuse (Item 9)

If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad).

2. Bad Heating Element.

3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. Please post back with your correct MODEL NUMBER if the number I have provided is incorrect. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 19, 2010 | Kenmore 500 6952 Dryer

1 Answer

Element not heating


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance: http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad). 2. Bad Heating Element.

3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 19, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Not heating


If the model number is correct, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the appliance. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the unit even while shut off.

2. Remove the lower toe panel under the door. Insert a putty knife in the top seam where the panel meets the dryer front. About two inches in form each side is a retaining clip that must be depressed. Once each clip is released, the panel opens from the top and can be removed.

3. The heating element is located on the right hand side inside the heater box. Disconnect the component leads on the left hand side of the heater box and label them. Then, remove the mounting screw on the heater box bracket and the whole unit will slide out. Here's an illustration:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

NOTE: You may have to remove the dryer chute where the lint trap is for better access. Just remove the lint screen and the screws holding the chute in place.

If your dryer does not look like this, your heating components are in the back of the dryer. Please, include an updated model number.

Now, have you confirmed the heating element bad? A no heat problem does not always mean the problem is the heating element. Your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

The heating element will be located inside the heater box. The Hi-limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) are the two components that are mounted on the outside of the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is the component furthest from the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Thermal Fuse and Internal Bias Thermostat are the two components mounted on the blower fan housing. The Thermal Fuse is the smalll plastic component with two wires attached to it, while the Internal Bias thermostat has four wires.

For clarification, you can refer to the following websites to assist you in locating and properly identifying the components of your dryer:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com

All these sites should have helpful exploded view parts illustrations.


If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem, the following links can also give you some guidance:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.
3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. Please include your MODEL NUMBER if different from the one you posted this question under when posting questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Before assuming you have an INTERNAL problem with your dryer, make sure you are getting the proper voltage from your wall receptacle and terminal block. This can save you from unnecessary disassembly of the appliance.

Apr 16, 2010 | Whirlpool GEQ9800P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer stopped now won't start


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 24)
Thermal Fuse (Item 23)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a drer that will not turn on is:

1. Blown Thermal Fuse

2. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 02, 2010 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer has no heat


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out. 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 02, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer drum will turn but not heat up any suggestions? purchased a ohm meter and removed the back panel not sure how to test for continuity(power has been disconnected!) Fairly new dryer please help


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Mar 30, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Procedure to replace heating element on 84152 electric dryer


This is a simple repair. Just follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present even with the dryer turned off.

2. Remove the dryer vent exhaust hose and remove the back of the dryer.

3. The heating circuits are located on the right hand side (as viewed from the rear). The heating element is located inside the heater box. Simply remove the mounting screws on the heater box and remove the two wires on the heating element terminals. NOTE: You can leave the two remaining components (Thermal Cut-Out and Hi limit Thermostat) connected on some models. If you need to remove them in order to remove the heating element make sure you label the wires.

4. Locate the mounting screw(s) on the outside of the heater box that hold the heating element in place.

5. With the mounting screw(s) removed the heating element will slide out of the heater box.

6. Insert new heating element, making sure you avoid touching the coil and align the screw holes so you can reinsert the mounting screws.

7. Re-install the heater box and any remaining components.

Now...are you sure you have a bad heating element? Just because a dryer does not heat, does not necessarily mean the heating element is bad. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The most common fail item that causes a dryer heating circuit failure is a blown TCO caused by poor dryer ventilation. Just something you may consider.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Aug 22, 2009 | Kenmore 84152 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

GE dryer. It does not get hot. How do you klnow if it is the thermostat or the heating element?


If your electric dryer doe not heat up, it could be the heating element opened ( meaning no current flow thru it, and no heat), thermostat or an over-temp sense switch tripped. These over temp 'snap type" switches are used as a failsafe to protect against unsafe temperatures as well as to prevent fires. Some of these switches have a reset button on them ( similar to those found on garbage disposers) and you may have to reset it manually to enable power to the heating element. These switches are situated in such a manner that if your vent system is clogged, temperature inside the dryer will exceed the safe limit and trip that switch. If you are reasonably handy and feel confident that you can safely troubleshoot and/or repair one of these components, it should be relatively simple to rule out the heater element as the problem by measuring its resistance with an ohm meter ( Obviously, all testing of this nature should be done wiith power disabled). Heating elements vary in resistance so any value that isn't an open ( meaning no continuity thru it) implies it is probably OK. If it does measure as an open, that is your problem and it needs replacement. Hope that helps...

Aug 07, 2008 | Dryers

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