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Freezer and fridge not cooling. I hear the motor trip in and out occasionally. It is a MFD2560HES

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  • scottblue33 Jul 25, 2009

    Thanks for you responses. The fan is clear, so what should be my next move regarding the Start capacitor and Relay. Power down fridge, locate them, remove and items?. Replace them?

    Thanks.

  • scottblue33 Jul 25, 2009

    You also mentioned "overload", is that also a device or current?
    I have looked at the parts this model (MFD2560HES), and I have seen the relay and capacitor, but nothing about an overload.

  • scottblue33 Aug 12, 2009

    See Breeze,

    I have replaced the start relay and capacitor, the fan is free of obstruction, but the problem remains. I still hear the the relay clicking in every 2 or 3 mins, but no cold air. I can feel the fan blowing air in the freezer but it is not getting cool.

  • scottblue33 Aug 14, 2009

    Hi Sea Breeze,

    Thanks for your help.
    I have tested the resistance between the RSC and it passed the test; no resistance, but on the ground test, I got open circuit on all three terminals to ground.

    What's next?

    Alton.

  • scottblue33 Aug 19, 2009

    Hi See Breeze,

    Sorrry for the delay, I was out of town for a few days. I tried to connect to your email link from your last comment, but got an error page. Try putting http:// in front of your email address. I will try email you my phone #.

    Alton.

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 4,654 Answers

Sound like the start relay, start capacitor and the overload all located at and near the compressor cover on the side of the compressor need to be looked at to see if they are defective. When this happens this is the most likely reason. Let me know if you need more help, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Jul 25, 2009

    Disconnect power and there is a cover on the side of the compressor. The start relay and overload are there. usually the start capacitor is nearby connected to the three. There is a start kit called a (3 N 1 Start Kit) that just may be the parts you need. http://appliancepartseast.blogspot.com/ Get a good look at them for heat damage the start capacitor should be checked.Thanks for the rate! Sea Breeze.

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 12, 2009

    I see you made several replies to me and today is the firt time I ever recieved a response from Fixya. I am very concerned when this happens. Because you responded and I did not get your message we both missed valuable time in the repair of this refrigerator. Here is my email. We need to take this one on one until we resolve this.

    appliancepartsse@yahoo.com

    864-812-1887

    HOW TO CHECK A COMPRESSOR
    Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective.
    Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 14, 2009

    Then the power is not being supplied to the compressor in some way. I am reviewing the drawings and if the compressor is not showing signs of damage then something has stopped power to compressor. Email me and let me call you so it don't cost you. I want to discuss this and ask a lot of questions. Sea Breeze

    appliancepartsse@yahoo.com

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 14, 2009

    You mentioned you had no resistance do you mean that you show continuity between RSC?

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 14, 2009

    If after replacing the start relay and capacitor you still had the clicking noise the compressor may be what we call a hard start. That can only be resolve on a temporary basis. You will need a hard start capacitor or replace the compressor. I don't recommend that. It just cost too much to replace. Some compressors when they reach a certain point they wobble inside and when stopped it's very hard to get them going again. That clicking noise is the overload making the noise because it tried to start the compressor and could not so the bimetallic disk inside clicks to stop the power from going into the compressor to prevent it from burning out. It also has an internal overload and it becomes weaker over time and just cannot take the struggle of starting and keeping the compressor running. Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 19, 2009

    Just call my phone I will return the call or manually put appliacepartsse(at)yahoo.com into the email

    @

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  • 2 Answers

Check for obstructions at fan on bottom of unit.
most common problem. clear so that fan turns
freely.

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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