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I hope you will be able to locate the fault.
Start with a bad circuit breaker.
Once in a while, a circuit breaker will be good-looking, but be no good.
Test that with a electric meter at the side where the wire attaches under a screw.
If all circuits are HOT at the circuit breaker box, suspect a burnt or broken wire somewhere between the box and the "dead" area.
Know that traditionally, the outlets and lights are not in parallel, they are often in series.
That means, an outlet can have a broken or fried connector tab between one plug and another, which can can use the whole system to be dead.
Look at a duplex outlet that is "loose". ( Hold it in your hand)
See the 2 tabs on the sides that connect the top and bottom outlets. If a tab is missing, one plug will be hot, the other dead. If wires go from the dead bottom one to other outlets or lights, they will all be dead also.
God bless your efforts.
Since you didn't mention the brand and model of your stove - I can only offer general help. The first thing I recommend is that you shut off the power to the stove at the circuit breaker panel. It should be a double-wide 40 or 50 amp circuit breaker. Move the handle to the OFF position and leave it there for 30 seconds or so. Then return the handle to the ON position again. Doing this should "erase" the memory of the stove and reset the electronics. If the problem is not longer an issue - the F3 code should be gone. If it returns, we'll have to do more. That will require knowing the name of stove's manufacturer and model number. Let me know how you make out and if you need more help - provide the info requested and I'll see what else I can do. Good luck!
I had this problem the other day with a customer stove. It turned out his outlet had a bad connection and the prongs were fried. His stove was getting less than 120 volts where as it needs 240 volts for anything aside from the clock to run.The solution was to replace the wall receptacle and the cord to the stove.To see if you have this problem start by unplugging the stove to see if the prongs on the plug are burnt. If they look clean then this is not your problem. Check your breaker box, there are two breakers for your stove outlet. Sometimes one of them could be tripped off causing this same problem. Reset both breakers for your stove regardless (If resetting your breaker fixes the problem but it trips again, have your stove inspected).Hopefully this helps
First thing check your breaker. if the breaker is good then unplug the stove and remove the back cover and check the power cord connection where it first connects. Check for any loose connections there. Also if your main power cord is plugged in behind the stove you could check the box for loose connections. Be sure to turn the breaker off first. If you are not sure about handling the electrical outlet then I would call someone who is.
Is it a new stove? There are really only three reasons that you can trip a breaker. you are pulling to many amps for the breaker, the breaker is bad or there is a dead short in the stove or wiring. Do you have an ohm meter? If it's a new stove it may be using more juice then the old one. Unlikely though. Your cord my be bad also. The outlet may be bad The breaker is the easiest to replace, then the cord then the outlet. After all this it might be the stove. If you have an ohm meter you can test you breaker, cord and outlet for shorts. You are dealing with 240 and 40 or 50 amps of electricity. Make one small mistake and you will be dead. My personal guess is the cord or stove Be careful and good luck
Begin by unplugging the pellet stove and using an extension cord, plug the pellet stove into a different circuit, with a different breaker. It is possible that the breaker itself is faulty. If you prove that the problem is in the breaker, replace it. If the new circuit also trips, then you will have to assume that the stove cord, or the stove mechanism is faulty and either repair or replace it. good luck with it. let me know.
Oven was working, I had it on pre-heat, then I turned on the stove top, but the burners won't heat. When I turn on the stove top the stove makes a short BUZZ noise and the clock area lights up, when the burner is turned off all the lights go out. Please help, food prepared.
PF = Power Failure. Sounds like you have a bad electrical connection. With your breaker off, check that the connections from the cord to the range are all good and tight. Next, check the receptacle where the cord plugs in. Remove the cover and check the connections there as well. Examine the power cord also. There could even be a poor connection at the breaker box (at the circuit breaker or the neutral buss bar) but not as likely, as your problem appeared when you moved your range.
First...be sure you cut power to the stove before you do anything. This is 220 volts and it can kill you. 220 Volts is based on two different lines of power coming to the stove, each of which is 110 volts...but opposite each other in phase. This may mean that some power to the stove is on and some is not. Let's go on.
I suspect a few things: First, the coil control for the burner is probably finished. What I also suspect is that it opened one of the two breakers (they are usually tied together in the panel and are either 40/50/60 amp units) causing some lights but no action.
What to do: Reset the breakers as a pair by turning them off and on. If one snaps off, you have a problem at the stove. If not,...which I doubt...you're in business.
Let's look at replacing the control. Shut the breakers. Now, take the burned control and remove it. Note the wiring positions if they are not on a plug. If they are terminals, tape the ends. Now, reset those breakers. If the other burners work, replace the control. Take the old one to the parts store. If it doesn't work, look around the burned area for broken wires. Repair and tape them up. Try again. Oh, and don't let anyone touch the stove while you're working with those breakers.