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no hub safety switch but there is an armature plate inside
the hubs which engages the 4wd
roller cage in the hubs.
Sometimes the plate gets worn
or damaged and loses it's effect
on the roller cages that engage the
hubs for 4wd.
The way it works is like an electromagnet
that attracts the roller cage and puts
a drag on it. The rollers are then
wedged on a ramp or taper that
locks the hub and axle together
so they drive.
If you have power to the hubs that
is good but the armature plates
must also be in good condition
with the proper pole gap so
it has enough magnet power to
put drag on the roller cage in the hub.
Newer models have the similar setup
only it is in the gearcase as one
larger unit rather than the
smaller wheel hub units. https://www.manualslib.com/products/Polaris-Sportsman-335-8688565.html this is the service manual
The symptom you describe suggests the clutch plates aren't disengaging; due to maladjustment, wear patterns on plates and/or basket (or cage) or worn or broken operating mechanism...
you can pull the oil tube off the carb for a couple seconds while its running to see if it drips oil. I'd run a synthetic 2 stroke oil, lubes better and burns cleaner.
Here is the lowdown on Polaris Sportsman 700-800 T-Bap wiring:
Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:
1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.
3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.
4. Fuel mileage will be poor.
5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.
How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:
1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.
2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected.
Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?
1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.
2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.
The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?
1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.
find a heavy duty one on the internet or ebay................
labyrinth plate in the valve cover is the culprit , you need to get a new one from polaris and have it installed , unless you can do it . The valve cover needs to be taken off the cylinder head. , the labyrinth plate it's a different design from origanal design and stops the oil from filling up your air box.
All most positive it is in your carb take the bowl off it as you take it off there is a small tube that hangs down that all most reaches the bottom of the bowl need to take a small wire and push through it it is blocked .symptoms backfiring no idle coughing and sputtering if it does start
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