Whirlpool lid lock broken. I can easily change it but my lid lock doesn't have mounting screws like every video I have seen. How do I remove it without breaking it?

Bypass the lid lock so it is seen as activated all the time.

Should be able to lift the whole top of this machine like a car hood and give you access to the lid components.

The lock cannot be disabled, The lid removes easily and is also simple to replace.
Depending on where in the world you are depends on where you will get a lid, If you do a google search in your area for whirlpool spares you will get some results.

kds e2 means lid switch is not being engaged .remove rear top cover .2 phillips screws .3 snap clips use flat blade screw driver to pop cover .look at rear of lid (door) right side plastic arm part of lid snaped off replace lid part xqb5526f.1.3-3 check saftey switch manually over ride switch as a test .if machine spins change lid if switch broken as well change both .switch # xqb550.1.6

The machine control detected that the lid switch is not functioning properly. Raise the top part of the washer to gain access to the lid switch.

Disconnect the machine from the power source. Gently pry the emblem from the front of the machine and remove the T20 torx screw hidden behind it. Slide the top of the washer forward and raise its front. Prop it up high enough to allow easy access to the lid switch.

The lid switch is activated by an actuator (part number 19119) mounted on a hinge. It will not work properly if the actuator is damaged.

Check the operation of the lid switch using a multimeter. Disconnect the lid switch wiring harness and connect the test leads of the multimeter (set to X1 or ohm) to the terminals of the lid switch and activate it. The multimeter should read zero ohms while the lid switch is activated and open when deactivated.

Replace the lid switch if it is broken or if it fails the test above. Remove the lid switch mounting screw and install the new lid switch. Reconnect the wiring harness and slide the top of the washer back into position. Reinstall the T20 torx screw and the emblem.

Your problem is more likely a broken lid switch. To test for this, lift the washer cover and look for a small hole in the washer top where the cover was. Push a toothpick gently into the hole and press the piece of plastic you see in the hole downward and listen for a soft clicking sound. If you don't hear a click or the plastic tab is not in the hole replace the lid switch.

Unplug the washer. Check the actuator on the lid that operates the lid switch to see if broken. Open the console of the washer. After removing the screws, the console will lift up and hinge back. Disconnect the plug going to the lid switch. Picture. Check the lid switch [lid closed] with an ohm meter from the wire plug-in leading to the switch. If no continuity, replace the lid switch. You will need to remove the cabinet to replace the switch. There are only a couple screws holding the lid switch assembly and a ground wire connection to the cabinet. Reassemble the washer and test the operation.

Unplug washer, remove the two console screws and tilt console back, remove cabinet clips, unlock lid switch block and then remove the cabinet. Remove the lid switch mounting screws, disconnect ground wire and remove lid switch assembly. Compare old switch to the new one. If the plastic sleeve of the new switch is longer, break off at the score mark. Pull wire partially out of sleeve before shortening sleeve. If the sleeve had to be shortened, the wires must be looped to take up the excess wire. Use supplied wire tie from the new kit. Install new switch assembly. New lid switch

Pay VERY close attention to assembling case back onto base so that sides engage tabs in base.

Whirlpool and Frigidaire top load washer sometimes have a problem with the lid switch / lid lock mech. Sometimes it's just a matter of screws backed out due to vibration, Whirlpool models from 2004, 5, 6.

There are 2 screws at each corner on the front of the control panel. Remove these. Then gently pull out and up on the control panel and lift it up to expose the 2 clips on each side of the cabinet. these should pop out easily with a flat head screw driver. There should be one wire assembly plastic clip that you also need to release. At this point, the entire cabinet will lift towards you by grabbing the back and pulling towards you. At this point, the lid switch can easily be changed with 2 screws. It's not as hard as it sounds.

The problem is usually caused by a lid switch malfunction. If the coupler was bad, the washer would still fill and drain, but would not agitate or spin. The symptoms you describe are typical of a lid problem. The lid switch is usually located on the right hand side under the cabinet. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the right side of the wash tub opening. Make sure the lid strike is still on the lid and intact, first. Then, check the mounting screws that hold the lid switch in place (two screws along the tub rim on the right hand side). Often all that is required is to tighten up the mounting screws and this will realign the lid switch where it can be properly activated by the lid strike. If the lid switch is broken, you can find a replacement at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. If you do not wish to order online, take the part numbers provided by Sears and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These are common parts that most will carry in their store inventory. The following link explains how to replace the switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

This is a very inexpensive repair that you can easily accomplish on your own. I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.

The symptoms you describe are typical of a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually located on the right hand side under the cabinet. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the right side of the wash tub opening. Make sure the lid strike is still on the lid and intact, first. Then, check the mounting screws that hold the lid switch in place (two screws along the tub rim on the right hand side). Often all that is required is to tighten up the mounting screws and this will realign the lid switch where it can be properly activated by the lid strike. If the lid switch is broken, you can find a replacement at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number and look under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. The lid switch is listed as item number 11 (part #3949247) and the lid strike will be listed as item number 20 (part #358684). If you do not wish to order online, take the part numbers provided by Sears and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These are common parts that most will carry in their store inventory. The following link explains how to replace the switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

This is a very inexpensive repair that you can easily accomplish on your own. I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.

PS This is a common problem experienced by this line of washing machines. To prevent future failures, do not slam the washer lid or place anything heavy on the lid. Repeatedly slamming the lid to get it to work, or manipulating the timer can can more potential problems.