Question about Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

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Mdg5500aww no heat / flame.

I have checked the following for continuity. ignitor, overtemp sw., round switch on flame tunnel, 2 round switches on exhaust (plus the previously mentioned overtemp sw.) One of the two round switches on the exhaust is open. I assume this is not normal. But, would this keep both the ignitor and the coils from at least trying to ignite?

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Yes, that open switch is the high limit thermostat. this will shutdown the unit and prevent it from heating. you must replace the open switch(thermostat) asap and, replace the thermal fuse as well.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

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I have a 10 year old honeywell furnace controlled by a SV9541 smart valve. We finally had to switch to heat but no heat. Tried restarting - system does nothing. Checked to make sure the gas line is open...


Sounds like the Ignitor unplug the ignitor check for continuity if no continuity replace Ignitor or you can usually see the crackon the Ignitor with white residue.

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Maytag Gas Neptune Dryer MDG5500AWW no heat


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Kenmore 500 series gas dryer has no heat and no glow. Thermostat fuse has continuity. Replaced ignitor and coils. bypassed flame sensor and still have the same problem.


Hello,

Having checked or replaced what you have thus far here a few things still to check

Cycling thermostat in blower housing,in addition to thermal fuse it must have continuty to be good

Timer check wiring diagram in control panel and check for continuty that are supposed to be closed when set to a normal heat cycle

Motor switch heat circuit check again with wiring diagram and see which wires on motor switch must be closed when running so dryer will heat.This a built curcuit asurring the dryer will never heat when motor is off

If your model has it check heat relay in control panel for continuty on heating circuit for relay(not the circuit that closes relay)

as far as power to the ignitor the hot side comes from timer to and through the thermal fuse and cycling t-stat, to ignitor.the neutral comes from neutral wire on cord to and through motor when motor is running and motor switch is closed

so on ignotor plug check hot wire to ground(not neutral) if has 120 vac to it timer/t. fuse/ cycling t-stat and flame switch are all good and its the motor switch is the problem.The motor switch can not replaced seperatly and must replace entire motor

Gene

Aug 09, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer is running, but heat will not turn on


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back.

Jul 27, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My Maytag Neptune dryer model mdg5500aww has no heat when running . ignitor never gets red. there's gas to the unit and 110 volts. there really not much lint in there. is the problem the flame sensor?


Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.


if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....


If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.


check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Dec 15, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Check continuity on a flame sensor


flame sensor is closed when dark, open with the ignitor light. Thermostat is closed when cold, open when reach temperture. Ignitor is a closed circut but high resistant value, put your meter on 10k. Also to the gas valve 110volts be carefull.

Sep 01, 2009 | GE DVLR223 Dryers

2 Answers

Gas dryer runs but no fame to heat it up


You have a bad thermo switch, unplug, open back of dryer, switches are quarter size round and two wires hooked to them, also on is thin and 2" long sually white with two wires ooked to it. Check these with a tester, just like you test a fuse, from one side to the other. When you find the bad one, jump from one side to the other, plug dryer in and see if it works, it will if switch is bad. Then replace bad one. Do not leave jumped, if dryer overheats it will not shut off and could cause a fire. Jumping is just for test only.

Jul 17, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Goodman air heat unit that will not come on.


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the ignitor. The ignitor will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the ignitor gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the ignitor does not energize (bad control, bad ignitor), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not lite (dirty pilot), the burner does not lite (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Most newer furnaces will have a diagnostic center or control built into the control module. You may be able to view it as it is running thru a small viewing port. Some models will require the removal of an access panel prior to finding it. On the reverse of the access panel, there will be a diagnostic chart that will aide you in understanding any error code recorded (usually a blinking light).

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Booster Motor Stayes on after end of heating cycle


Check the following: Flame sensor, this is a lil probe somewhere next to your ignitor. It senses flame and will cause the inducer/booster fan to keep running. Check continuity between your limits on the exchangers, and the main auxilary limit, if a broken circuit then it will also cause the unit to act eratically. If those check out, try your pressure switch, when the heating cycle begins ensure your getting 24 volts in one leg and out the other.

Dec 04, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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