I have replased clutch cable where do the spring go on the belt tensioner

follow this steps and fix it. GOD BLESS YOU
If grass is poorly or unevenly cut, try mowing at a slower speed and adjusting the engine speed with instructions in your owner's manual. Scrape away any dried grass and other debris caked under the mower deck. Sharpen or replace dull or bent blades . Check and replace a worn belt.
If the V-belt slips or comes off during use, clear any debris in the belt area, adjust the drive-belt tension (see below), or have the belt replaced. Adjust and tighten pulley fasteners or have a service center replace worn parts.
If the belt squeals or wears excessively, adjust the drive-belt tension (see below) and look for obstructions around the belt. If that doesn't work, take the mower in for professional service.
If the mower vibrates excessively when the clutch is engaged, scrape away any debris accumulated under the deck. Balance the blade and replace the blade if needed. If that fails, adjust drive-belt tension (see below). If you find that the drive belt, pulley, or other belt-drive part is damaged, consider having it replaced by a professional.
If the mower is hard to shift or doesn't move when the clutch is engaged, adjust the drive-belt tension (see below). Also make sure the mower is lubricated according to the owner's manual specifications. As needed, have the mower serviced for damaged or maladjusted clutch/brake pedal linkage.
If the engine doesn't start, loses power, or dies during use.
Replace a recoil starter rope:

1. Disconnect the spark plug cable for safety.
2. Disengage the throttle cable from the housing and remove the housing as needed to access the starter.
3. Remove the handle from the rope, which is often held in place by a knot or retainer pin.
4. Unfasten the other end of the rope from the starter using pliers or a cutter as needed.
5. Knot the end of the replacement rope.
6. Tighten the pulley counterclockwise all the way, then back it off two turns and hold it firmly.
7. Thread the unknotted rope end through the pulley hole.
8. Thread the rope through the housing hole and pull it taut.
9. Slowly release the pulley, allowing the rope to wind around the pulley.
10. Attach the handle and reassemble as needed.
11. Reconnect the spark plug cable.

Replace a recoil starter spring:

1. Disconnect the spark plug cable for safety.
2. Remove the housing and the spring cover.
3. Carefully remove the rope from the pulley to release spring tension.
4. Remove and replace the spring as recommended by the manufacturer.
5. Reinstall the pulley, rope, and housing following the instructions above.
6. Reconnect the spark plug cable.

I fear that the belt is slipping in the pulleys, the clutch is very unlikly to slip as it is a metal to metal contact, i have never had to fit a clutch due to it slipping, the K970 went on from the k950 and had a poly v belt and pulleys, you can retro fit the the pulleys belt and blade shaft, the loading on the standard belt is very high especially when using a 16" blade.

there is a clutch for the drive and a clutch for the blades, would help if you specified which. Generally there are two kinds of mower clutch, one is electric and not adjustable, the other is a spring loaded pulley to put tension on the belt. When the belt stretches, the pulley splits, or the spring weakens this type of clutch may need one or all of those components replaced to restore tension, but it is not "adjustable" per se. half the time the owner has put the belt back on wrong and there is no tension so exclude that possibility before you start buying parts.

On the handle end (usually) of the cable is a curved metal connector. Attached to the connector is a threaded rod with a nut. Attach a pair of pliers to the threaded cylinder that the threaded rod goes into. Loosen the nut. Turn the threaded cylinder into the threaded rod to tighten or out to loosen. When you have the correct adjustment, tighten the nut back down onto the cylinder. To be correctly adjusted, pull the cover off the auger belt and push down on the handle. The spring attached to the cable at the pulley end should stretch out when the handle is fully depressed. Spring tension keeps the belt tight.

A PTO clutch can wear out and slip, but how have you determined it's the clutch internals, and not the mower drive belt that is slipping? Take off the mower drive belt and inspect it. Make sure it's not worn out or stretched. Make sure the spindles and pulleys turn freely and aren't frozen or binding. When you reinstall the belt, check the tension on it -- usually shouldn't be able to deflect the belt more than about 1/2 inch with strong thumb pressure. Some mowers use two springs to tension the idler pulley. If one spring has come undone or gotten lost, you'll get slippage. If all that is OK, then you may have internal slippage in the clutch. Removing and disassembling the clutch can be challenging, and replacement is expensive, so check for more common problems first.

check for a spring on your tensioner pulley there should be some holes on it for a spring to connect too and back onto the frame these sometimes come off and dont keep the belt tight maybe diagram will show this tensioner

- remove deck
- remove seat and rear fenders
- pry off deck adjusting knob
- remove F/R pedals
- remove floor plate
- use jackstands to prop up entire right side of tractor
- remove (2) screws holding fuel lines on side of frame
- lift out gas tank, set alongside left side of tractor
- remove plastic fan from hydrostat
- disconnect the electrical connector for the electric clutch
- from the top-side - use a 3/8" drive rachet - stick it into the tensioner slot next to the idler, rotate it to take tension off the belt, and remove belt off hydrostat pulley
- from underside - remove front idler (next to electric clutch)
- from underside - remove the "right-most" idler off the spring tensioner
- from underside - remove the "left-most" idler off the spring tensioner
- now the tensioner can rotate fully to take almost all the tension off the extension spring
- pop the spring off the tensioner arm
- the belt should now be able to be removed from the machine

- reinstall in the opposite fashion
- note: to reattach the spring, connect a nylon cord to the spring, and pull it rearward and guide it onto the tensioner arm - you need to stretch it about 1"
- for reattaching the two idler pulleys to the tensioner, get someone to hold the ratchet so the tensioner is positioned for the belt being in it's most-loose position. You may need to wrap the new belt around the hydrostat pulley first, and assemble the last idler pulley and belt at the same time to complete the procedure.

clutch self adjuster is bad,you need to replase cabel/try orileys auto parts first,or dealer for cable.
tim

Check proper belt routing. These models are a little tricky. Also check tensioner spring.