Can I get a drive belt for cassette drive on a bush SCD319RC

1. Gather the necessary tools: You'll need a set of replacement belts, a small screwdriver or a similar tool for removing screws, and possibly a pair of tweezers or needle-nose pliers.
2. Power off and unplug the cassette deck: Before you begin, ensure that the cassette deck is powered off and disconnected from any power source.
3. Remove the outer cover: Most cassette decks have a protective cover that can be removed to access the internal components. Use a small screwdriver to remove the screws holding the cover in place. Keep the screws in a safe place, as you'll need them later.
4. Locate the belts: Once the cover is removed, you should be able to see the internal mechanisms of the cassette deck, including the belts. The belts are typically made of rubber and are responsible for driving the tape transport mechanisms.
5. Identify the belts to be replaced: Inspect the belts and identify which ones need replacement. In some
6. Remove the old belts: Gently remove the old belts from their positions. You may need to use tweezers or needle-nose pliers to grasp and pull the belts off the pulleys. Take note of how the belts are positioned before removing them so that you can install the new belts correctly.
7. Install the new belts: Take the new belts and thread them around the appropriate pulleys and drive wheels. Refer to any service documentation or diagrams available for guidance if needed. Ensure that the belts are properly seated and aligned.
8. Test the belt tension: Once the new belts are installed, check their tension. They should be tight enough to drive the tape transport mechanisms without slipping but not so tight as to strain the components. Adjust the belt tension if necessary.
9. Reassemble the cassette deck: Carefully put the outer cover back onto the cassette deck and secure it in place using the screws you removed earlier. Ensure that all the screws are tightened but not overly tightened.
10. Test the cassette deck: Plug in the cassette deck and power it on. Test its functionality by inserting a cassette and playing it. Pay attention to the tape transport mechanisms to ensure that the new belts are operating correctly.

You may have an issue with the cassette deck on your Sony LBT-D550. The cassette deck uses a belt drive system to operate the cassette mechanism; if belts are broken, it can cause the deck to malfunction.
All the belts may have failed at the same time, but it's also possible that there is another issue causing the problem. Some possible causes of a cassette deck malfunction include:

• A problem with the cassette mechanism itself, such as a jammed cassette or worn-out gears.
• A problem with the cassette deck's motor, which a malfunctioning capacitor or other components could cause.
• A problem with the cassette deck's control board, which a malfunctioning switch or other components could cause.

To determine the cause of the problem, a professional technician should look at the cassette deck.

Tape 2 PC Cassette Conversion System ION Audio Dedicated to Delivering...

Hi there! There are five general causes for cassette tape machines to run slow 1) motor faulty Check the motor governor electronics 2) Belts and rubbers worn or slipping 3) Lubrication of mechanism bushes 4) Cassettes binding in their cases this is quite common 5) If there is a solenoid or motor that do the work of the moving of capstan roller then there can be something wrong with that it can be binding on the sliding mechanism

I have a GE Battery operated Cassette Recorder, model no. 3-5025A and the spinals that turn the the cassette will not turn. I believe I need the 3 tiny belts that make it work need to be replaced. The are different sizes, do you know where I can purchase these belts?

Relax... its an EZ job
(an irrelevant aside... belts are not expensive but before you run out and buy a grab bag of belts that MOST Likely won't fit... Please read this first)
Cassette Players are PROBLEMATIC...
That's a nice way of using the "F" word... Finicky: Very Finicky!
My recent experience is limited to the Sony Stereo Cassette Deck TC FX310... BELTs CQ4.0 & FRW6.5
First BIG TIME Hint:
Take pictures of wires BEFORE removing the unit, cover or any/all BELTS,
screws or parts that may concern you. You may actually want to draw the
BELT roller configuration.
Initial cautions:
Use no hard tools or abrasives on any tape surfaces. No force is required.
Use extremely little Isopropyl alcohol to clean heads and/or rollers with very dry clean swabs. Excess alcohol can wash precious lube out of desired areas... and contaminate other undesired collateral areas ergo your tapes.
Likewise: any lube (synthetic) applied should be precious little (like on the very point of a tooth-pick) as the lube can contaminate tape surfaces, roller and/or capstan drives and ruin your tapes.
Suggestion: Put a drop of oil on a piece of cardboard and pick it up with the toothpick.
Keep your bare fingers away from all surfaces
(Fried chicken needs be scheduled on another day)
Serious No-no (Leave no finger prints).
You most probably wont need the belts but I'll explain that after plodding on... a little more... ponderously.
You leave Cassette Tapes/Players sit... and IF they play: it will be only on a warm day... and get a little better after repeated attempts. Both need to be regularly exercised to stay fit (like us).
The first issue:
Push PLAY... Wouldn't stay pushed
Unit twitches & stops (play goes out).
(Cold days... might not even twitch). Repeated pushes did get it to move... but never good enough to actually run on its own.
Clue: Transport has to register "proper" movement to KEEP playing.
OUR Tape was on the transport for years.
Eject... DIDn't.
Solution: Gently press & hold the eject while
gently tapping face cover. It only opened a wee bit... but that was enough to simply lift the plastic FACE cover off providing limited access
If you don't use them for many years they STAND an EXTREMELY good chance of not working when you try.
I'd guess OURs to date from the late 1980s and was sadly... barely used.
It was (Sony Console) alternate unit (not used back then to copy tapes for the cars) it probably has less than 50 hours in its (over 25 year) lifetime.
Ours was Sooo unused that I actually bought a $10 donor from eBay ($15 shipping) to play with before working on ours (actually my wife's: part of a system... she loves but doesn't use much).
Good tape & transport maintenance means you should periodically run your cassettes from end to end so they don't stick or bind over time. Ditto on the transports. Just exactly like MODERN car tires that can go thump thump thump after sitting for a while... These belts can develop a memory of just sitting in the same place.
All slack should be removed from the tape cassette before mounting on transport.
Especially critical in CARs as the extreme temperatures prove quite hostile to normal cassettes. Extended length cassettes should never be left in an AUTOMOBILE for extended periods.
Driving warms the tires and the thumping (usually) stops.
Similarly... Belts!
On the donor: I pulled the back screws... opened it up (rotating up & forward) and verified it had more use, needed dusting, oil (very sparingly, synthetic) and Pinch roller actually had a gold sheen from the extensive tape contact. Gently holding the roller with forceps (tweezers) allows the surface to be held/rotated to facilitate cleaning it back to a functional and respectable black.
With new belts in hand...
I could find no defects with the old (well used donor) belts (10x magnification).
I boiled a cup of water in the micro wave... Took it out of the microwave.
Dropped the belts in and watched them relax to a nice round shape.
Another hint:
Forceps (tweezers), dental picks (bent paper clips), a loop of string, thread or un-waxed dental floss, a steady hand and a little PATIENCE will be required to tread the belt back into position and coaxed back remounting them onto their rollers. (refer to your pictures: previously taken).

Before being sold on eBay SOMEBODY had removed the Donor's drive motor so I used mama's virgin unit to approximate the belt tension (how much you can easily wiggle the belt up/down... only looser because tight belts will always burn-out bearings/bushings (my guess was about 1/4 inch on the longest span ("guitar string tight" will guarantee TOTAL bearing/bushing FAILURE))... resulting in a throw away.

Relax it is actually an EZ job.

Drive belts on tape decks are mostly universal. You only need to measure the diameter of each belt in mm and then enter the result in Google as "Cassette drive belt ??mm".

All you need to do is measure the diameter of each belt in MM. Then put "Cassette drive belt ??mm" into Google and you should find a supplier. Belts are not generally specific to any maker. Also you don't need to be precise on the MM. If you are removing them to measure, make a note of how they fit first.

mcmelectronics.com has belt kits for various units. Or perhaps google "audio cassette belts"

Cassette will not exit,eject nor play and does a clicking sound, one side of cassette door will not close.