Dryer runs hot and will not shut down automatically
I have a maytag LDG7500 front loading dryer. It works fine, but will not shut itself off and the dryer is very hot. I hve cleaned the venting piping, outlet and inside the dryer I know there is a humidistat that measures the dryness of the clothes, is there also a thermostat? Any idea what might be casuing this?
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Re: Dryer runs hot and will not shut down automatically
There is a thermostat or what we would say a high temp switch near the heating element to keep it from getting to hot , the internal parts of the vent must be cleaned as well, cleaning the vent and the screen is not always good enough. Ive had to completely take the dryer apart and pull all pipes apart all the way to the lint screen to fix this problem.
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ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle.
Remove the front panel to get to the gas valve. To remove the panel remove both screws holding the door hinges and the screws on the opposite side from the hinges across the door opening. Remove the metal bracket holding gas valve coils. Replace both gas valve coils, part number 279834.
Could be a number of things....
The ignitor is bad and it will not keep pulling enough current to hold the gas vavle on.
The dryer cycling thermostat is bad and is cycling it too often...ie, shutting the gas valve down too soon before it can run long enough and then turning it right back on.
The vent is blocked or plugged and the air gets too hot to fast.
The high limit switch has gone bad doing the same thing as if the cycling stat goes bad.
Fan/blower is bad and bot moving enough air...same symptoms as blocked vent...
Need to start eliminating the possiblities one by one...
i had the same problem with my dryer and i installed the wrong thermal fuse for gas dryer which calls for a pink thermal fuse in which i installed and it works fine also check the lint in the front of your dryer. also my dryer which is the same make as yours seems will run on the fluff cycle until i replaced the right thermal fuse. my dryer run exceptionally hot and eventally shut down and it only run on the fluff cycle for any length of time.
That is where the fan is located, hot air is drawn from the hearer at the rear of the drum, through the drum then through the fluf filter at the front (inside the front edge) and then down the front panel and to the fan, then via a duct to the rear. So would get warm at this part.
Would check that the external ducting is clear and not kinked, flexible plastic or foil ducts should not be used for these machines ie fixed ducting only.