When I set the timer it makes a sound like the tube is opening up to allow the water to flow but when I placed the unit on the faucet and turned the water on to wait for the timer to work the water was already on. When the timer reached the time that I set it made the noise like it was opening for the water to flow and that is all. The water stayed flowing out the hole all the time.
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The coffee dispensing valve is stuck open. It may be due to Calcium deposits.
Descale the machine or manually clean the dispensing valve and the diffuser disc that unscrews to be removed. This diffuser is visible just above the coffee pot.
usually a broken lid switch if it fills with water and then nothing,set the timer on spin and pull out the timer,open the lid and stick a screw driver into the hole where the plastic acuator on the lid goes into the hole and push down easily and see if washer will run this is where the lid switch is and it's only a safety switch so when the lid is open the washer won't run,if not push up and down on the switch and listen for a clicking sound,no click switch is bad part number 285671,watch video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ag1eT5PrMnE
Water leak and noise are due to wrong temp setting or malfunction of defrost cycking.Keep temp setting between 3 and 5 degree centigrade. Due to over frosting, the freezer fan fan hits over the ice and working to cool fridge compartment.And also check defrost timer, and heaterworking properly to defrost in time. And if your ice maker is making sound, due to:
You will hear a buzzing sound when the water valve opens to fill the water reservoir for each cycle.
Rattling noises may come from the flow of the refrigerant or water line. Items stored on top of the ice maker can also make noises.
The high-efficiency compressor may make a pulsating or high-pitched sound.
Water running over the evaporator plate may make a splashing sound.
Water running from the evaporator plate to the water reservoir may make a splashing sound.
As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant flowing in your ice maker.
You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan.
During the harvest cycle, you may hear a "thud" when the ice sheet slides from the evaporator onto the cutter grid.
When you first start the ice maker, you may hear water running continuously. The ice maker is programmed to run a rinse cycle before it begins to make ice.
Hey, We had a similar problem. Water just dribbles out if at all. Here is a trick that worked for us. In the K-Cup holder there is a tube that punctures the bottom of the KCup. They give you instructions on keeping that clean. But they dont tell you there is an equally important puncture tube at the top. THis tube usually has 3 or so holes or openings that flow water after the cup is punctured on top. I took a paper clip and pushed in (not too far) on these holes only to find coffee had lodged up there and blocked the hole. I ran a couple times after with just hot water and it works like new.
If it fills with water and starts the cycle and
the water keeps running in then your water inlet valve on the back where the
water supply comes in is sticking. It needs replacing. If it overflows and don't start the cycle-
Your pressure switch stops the
water and allows it to start the next cycle. It's a switch either in the
control panel or at the top of the tub with a small tube connected to it which
goes down between the inner and outer tube. As the water level increases the
air in the tube is compressed until there is enough pressure to make the switch
stopping the water from filling. This tube can get clogged and the switch won't
work. Remove the tube and clean it out. Blowing on the tube when it's still
connected to the switch will make the switch if it's working and clear.
This sounds like a faulty water level switch. It's a diaphragm-like device with a small plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level increases, so does the pressure on the air in the plastic tube and when it reaches a certain level it activates the switch to shut off the water and signals the timer to start appropriate cycle. Make sure there is no damage to or obstructions in the plastic tube. The switch can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a faulty switch. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.
It freezes up for a few reasons. First the water is not running down fast enough. That is why the wire was added to add heat from the heater to the drain hole. The metal pan under the evaporator coil may not be lined up with the drain hole well enough and holding water there. If that looks ok the drain tube that runs down the inside back of the unit might be slightly restricted. Not much you can do about that. I would make sure that the aluminum wire goes in the hole about 2 inches and that the unit is tilted slightly back to help water flow.