One of the negative wires came of the coil? the woofer has 4spring loaded terminals? is it still good?

Disconnect the ignition coil output wire at the distributor cap.
Connect a spark plug to the end of the ignition coil output wire which you just disconnected.
Connect a ground wire to the threaded portion of the spark plug.
Disconnect the ignition coil ground wire from the negative terminal on the coil (Green Wire).
Connect one end of a ground wire to the ignition coil negative terminal.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Tap the other end of the ignition coil ground wire jumper on an good grounding point (for example the battery negative terminal) and look for sparks at the spark plug that correspond to the frequency of your tapping of the ground wire.
If you have a good spark at the spark plug, the ignition coil is good.
If you don't get a good spark, check for approximately 12 VDC from the coil positive terminal (black wire) to ground with the ignition switch in the ON position. You should also get approximately 12 VDC from the coil negative terminal (Green wire) to ground
Ignition Coil Resistance Check

In addition to the test above, you may elect to perform an ignition coil resistance check as confirmation of the coil's condition.

Check the ignition coil primary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the positive (Black wire) and negative (Green wire) terminals on the coil. The resistance should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
Check the ignition coil secondary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the coil output terminal and the ignition coil negative terminal. The resistance should be 5000 to 7200 ohms.

You may have a bad coil or bad ground or wire connection

the best way? hmm. i would start off with some wire. Keep in mind that you will need to separate the positive (usually red or has a stripe or marking on it) from the negative (Black usually is the common color for this wire) and hook the up according to your amps positive and negative hook ups / terminals following your sub-woofers terminals. then depending on your sub woofers Voice coils (Duel or single voice coils) yours are duel or quad coils but i\'m sure they are duel (2 of each positive and negative equaling a total of 4 posts on each sub-woofer). figure out your amps ohm load handling and does your amp run hot (1,2 or 4 ohm stable some are even less like 0.5 or lower) i would run at a 1 or 2 ohm load as that is usually standard on 1 channel amps. make sure to check your wiring and if your not sure about ohm loads just Google wiring for sub-woofer ohm loads such as 0.5 ohm, 1 ohm, 2 ohm or 4 ohm loads. also make sure your box is not sealed do to the fact they are siht and cant produce sound like a vented / ported enclosure keep the size as big as you can fit in your car or truck the bigger the better. i had one 8\'\' sony sub pounding like a 15\'\' sub real loud . Also MDF particle board is garbage it causes port noise and absorbs water

if your amp is a monoblock 2 ohm stable amp wire the coils positive to positive and negative to negative into a single channel that will create a 2 ohm load turn your amp down and adjust by ear till it sounds good if your amp is a 2 channel amp 4 ohm per channel wire each coil one per channel turn amp down and adjust by ear till sounds good hope i was helpful

Check to determine if your sub woofers are DVC 4OHM or DVC 2OHM SOLUTION 1 If your sub woofers are DVC 4OHM then, from the positive (+) of the amplifier run your cable to the positive terminal of voice coil 1 on sub woofer 1 then continue to connect all the positive voice coils together on both sub woofers. Do the same for the negative from amplifier to all the negative voice coils of both the sub woofers. RECAP: all positives together on the positives and all the negatives together on the negatives. This will give you a 1 OHM load to the amplifier making it deliver all its power but will also run hot. So if you are living in a hot climate take care. SOLUTION 2: Connect the negative on voice coil 1 to the positive of voice coil 2 on sub woofer 1 Do the same for subwoofer 2 now you should have a free negative and a free positive on each of the sub woofers. connect the free positives together and follow through to the positive on the amplifier. do the same for the free negatives sending them to the amplifiers negative. This will give you a 4 OHM load to the amplifier. Not full power in this mode but the most stable working condition for your amplifier. SOLUTION 3 If your sub woofers are DVC 2 OHM then you only have one reasonable wiring solution. Connect like solution 2. This time because of the DVC 2 OHM sub woofers you would have a 2 OHM load to the amplifier. This is also a stable load for the amplifier and does not generate to much heat and still deliver over 50% to 70% of the amplifiers power. good luck and drop me a line if you still have doubts. dreamsystems

It depends on the end ohm load you are trying to achieve. If your amp is rated at 2 ohms stable, then wire for 2 ohms, if 1 ohm stable wire for 1 ohm. EX. A dual 2 ohm woofer can be wired with the positive of 1 coil connected to the negative of the other coil, then connect the amp to the other two open terminals. This cuts the load of that speaker down to 1 ohm. When connecting the other speaker in the same manner, the two speakers a 1 ohm each add together to produce a 2 ohm load at the amp. NOTE- a 2 ohm amp running a speaker wired for 1 ohm will not have enough resistance to limit the power coming from the amp and runs a high chance of burning the amp up.

test with a digital multimeter set to ohms. if you don't have one of those laying around grab a 9 volt battery and run wires from the 2 terminals on the battery to 2 of the terminals on the woofer. if the woofer pops out you are said to be "in phase" (even though it has more to do with polarity that phasing but regardless) which means the positive from the battery is on the positive of the woofer and the negative is to the negative. those 2 terminals on the woofer are a single coil and obviously the other 2 terminals are the 2nd coil. now depending on what impedance each coil is will determine how you have to wire it to be 4 ohms unless they are 4 ohm coils which means you just use one coil and it will be 4 ohms on that woofer.

Hello gaz69,

Your PSW815 has 2 ohm dual voice coils allowing you to better match the impedance to your amp. Each voice coil is 2 ohms. If you wire them in parallel (both +'s together and both -'s together and then to the amp terminals), the sub presents a 1 ohm load which is too low for most amps. Wiring the voice coils in series (one + to the other - and the remaining + and - to the amp terminals) results in a 4 ohm load.

This link shows the wiring diagram for both options. If you know for sure that your amp is 1 ohm stable, use Wiring Option #1. If the amp is not 1 ohm stable, use Wiring Option #2.

Hope this helps.

it depends on the load you want to present to the amp. un 12, 2009 - If woofers are 2 coil, then you definately need to know the impedance of the coils (are they dual 2 ohm, or dual 4 ohm?). For dual 4 ohm speakers you will only be able to acheive a summed load of 1 or 4 ohms. If your amp can handle 1 ohm, then connect this way: 1 ohm: Connect both the positives and the negatives together on each speaker. This puts them in paralell which will result in a 2 ohm load per speaker. After you connect the two 2 ohm loads to the amp, it will see 1 ohm as it's load. If your amp can handle this, this is usually the lowest configuration capable by consumer stuff, (if you are not doing competition or some crazy thing), and few amps are rated for 1 ohm so it's not really recommended and may heat up or blow your amp. 4 ohm: Connect one negative to one positive terminal on one speaker. Drive the other open terminals with the amp. This places coils in series and results in an 8 ohm load per speaker. After connecting both speakers to the amp, the amp will see a 4 ohm load. In both cases, the rates power of the amp (at that load) will be divided equally between the speakers. Jun 12, 2009 - For dual 2 ohm speakers, the only loads you can achieve are .5 ohm (1/2 ohm), and 2 ohm. The connections are the same as above, and this results in: ...If coils for each speaker are wired in paralell, the results are 1 ohm per speaker, and after connection, the amp sees 1/2 an ohm. (.5 ohm) ...If coils are wired in series, the result is 4 ohms per speaker, and the amp will see 2 ohms after both are connected.

you can run each sub at either 4ohms or 1ohm which means that two of them will run at either 2ohms or .5ohms....be careful how you wire them because most amps cannot handle .5ohms very well and might blow.....to wire them for 2ohms you will need to wire each sub the following way. they have two voice coils make a jumper wire connecting the negative on one coil to the positive on the other coil. what you are left with is a coil with an open positive and the other coil has an open negative. when both subs are wired like this connect the two positive terminals together (1 from each sub) and the two negative terminals together (1 from each sub) now the subs should be wired together at a 2ohm load. run the two positive wires into another combined wire which will run to the positive speaker terminal on the amp. do the same for the negatives