I have a Trane XV90 with a Trane RXC065 A/C unit - a fairly high end residential system. I'm looking at options for air flow control, primarily to enhance cooling of the upstairs for the summer season. I think a damper to the downstairs manifold will handle the job. Can anyone give me a ballpark idea on the minimum number of 6 inch ducts I need to keep fully open to avoid causing system problems? I have 6 ducts upstairs and 6 ducts downstairs. -- another way of putting it, if I close the downstairs damper completely (probably wouldn't actually do that, but it would be the extreme case) would you expect any problems with the blower going to bypass or the coils over-cooling?
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Re: Trane Heater A/C Airflow Control
I had a similar problem, and a six inch duct and inline booster fan didnt help, the room was just to far away from the furnace and ac. to save energy, i use an oil rad in the winter, and a portable ac in the summer, it works great.my house is a back split, so its a common problem. in the summer, all downstairs dampers should be closed to push the cold air upstairs ,as it will come back down anyway and the basement is cooler as it is. so if you have 4 flores, you close the bottom 2. bungalow you close the basement
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If the unit is running in cold weather than there is ice building up on the coils located outside. This is normal in that the unit is running in heat pump mode heating inside and cooling outside, After the unit detects the ice build up it briefly reverses the cycle heating the outside coils melting(defrosting) the ice which you observe as water on the pad.
13 seer minimum for new installs. I have seen ratings as high as 18 or more on some units (410A systems) I recently replaced my system with a 13 seer R22 system, since they are more easily serviced and I am very familiar with them. Given the average lifespan of a system before major service is around 10 years depending on model. I have worked on Trane, Carrier, Intertherm and Goodman units and prefer the Goodman units, as they seem to be much quieter running and are built in America.
Hi, I want you to try a couple of things for me if you will. Go to the thermostat and remove the cover. Now if you have a small bladed screw driver, loosen all the screw on this next section and remove it. Turn off power to the unit, if it is a split system, turn off the indoor unit. Once you remove this section which is the thermostat you will see the subbase and wiring. Take the red wire loose and off of the terminal. You may have a red jumper wire going from RH to RC. Remove the red wire coming into the stat at either point. Give it a minute and see if the fan stops now. If it does, you will need to replace the stat. If not, depending on the age of your unit, if your high limit/fan control tripped, that will be the problem. Some units have a fan control combination high limit that trips causing the fan to run all the time. You need to take a look at your heater section at the front of it to see what kind you have. If it is a combination fan/limit. it will be inserted into the fire box. It is square looking box with a cover on it some with a auto/ manual button on them Sometimes the contats will stick causing the fan to run. They can be removed with power off and cleaned up. They will have a dial with a temperature reading on them which tells the fan to come on when it reaches this set-point and off when it cools down. It may have stuck closed. Check what I have told you with the stat, and this and let me know the age of heater and if it is a split system Trane with a remote condenser and furnace located somewhere else. Get back to me on this. Shastalaker7
To vague.Depends on application, i.e. forced air(add on with heating existing), geo thermal, heat pump, etc...Not to mention size of system(tonnage), brand, seer, existing modifications to delling.Commercial or Residential, zoning, local/state ordinences/codes.Title 24.Cash or finance options.
Really in short, a dumb question.Sorry for the straight talk.
99.99% of the modern residential units use only one transformer to power the 24 volts for both the furnace and the a/c unit. It will be located in the furnace. The outdoor unit will not have its own transformer unless its reeallllly old. Place a small jumper wire between w1 & w2 terminals on the thermostat. (The lux brand is not the professionals choice) (if you have problems replace with a honeywell or white rodgers brand).
I corrected the problem...RH is rising nicely!! Installed by "professionals" on my Trane XV90....I redid their wiring and now have the following setup...
600A water supply coming from hot water line. Removed orifice inside incoming feed tube. control incoming water flow from saddlevalve on hot water supply ( make sure its a nice solid flow, no drips, but no "force" too it either)..enough to insure entire evaporator unit is wet and water is slightly flowing out of bottom to drain.
I also have it wired to run when ever the furnace blower is on. Heat or no heat. XV90 is variable speed, and by doing this the 600a is always adding moisture, until it reaches correct RH%
Also, I disconnected the outdoor temp sensor. I went to Radio Shack and bought a 47K ohm resistor ( 1/2 watt....4 pack for 99 cents). Installed that in place of outdoor sensor...now runs in manual mode. Have unit currently set to number 5.