We opened the top and front and checked the size hose, unclogged it. no poblems there. from the looks of it we ae thinking it might be an electical issue if not the motor itself. Which wires should we check to see if it is not the motor?
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when your machine is empty, remove the front cover of the machine. on the outside of the tub there will be a narrow diameter hose running from the top of the tub to the bottom. take the hose off carefully and use something to unclog the hose as it will be filled with dirt and or grease, I used a scewer for the bbq carefully. Also before you put the hose back on make sure the nipple that it coonects to at the bottom ic clear also. You may need to run an empty load to reset the water level as that is what this hose is.
it sounds like hose that connects to drain pump has a leak,undo the back and look under drum you well see a small pump use a flash light,and try to see were the wate is comming from,now the edges are very sharp so were gloves,to remove the hose from drum to pump use a pair of visegrips,the hose is ribbed,make sure its unplugged.Yoy may want to try elec-tape for tempory fix .good luck
Sounds like the rubber fill hose that attaches to the outer tub in the machine has become unhooked. The water from either hot or cold won't make any difference.. it's the hose that actually attaches to the tub. This is fairly common if the machine has been filled to max capacity and during a spin cycle an article of clothing can spin past the hose and knock it out of it's intended location. You'll need to open the manchine and check the rubber flange on the hose, if it's not damaged you can simply reinstall into the tub. Otherwise, a simple swap out of the hose will get the problem solved.. diagrams are available at repairclinic.com
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
You have a bad water level switch or a clogged plastic hose that goes to the water level switch.
Use a putty knife to open the front panel. The clips are at the top right and left sides just below the top lid. Push in on the clips and pull out on the panel.
On the left side of the tub you will see the air dome with aplastic hose connected.
Remove the hose and insert a small wire into the air dome hole to clean it out ouf soap scum. Then, blow through the hose and listen for a faint click in the water level switch. Also check the hose for a hole or being pinched.
The set the timer for spin and run a spin cycle then retry the water level and wash cycle.
before calling for service ck fill hose screens to be sure they are clean on some models the f30 code indicated possible problem with dispenser linkage you can ck that by removing 3 screws along back edge of top slide top back and lift off linkage is on left at dispenser if this looks ok sears servoce # 18004694663 or ae 18009059505
Try to Open the safety compartment using a screwdriver under the wash machine in the front. Then open the big white knodb this will cause the wate to drain out which is fine. Then clean this out. Usually you will find coins and stuff here from years of operations from pockets. clear these out and your problem maybe fixed. worked for us
I had a problem almost like yours. The hose attached to the load size switch had a clog in it, and the washer wouldn't fill with water or spin. Will need to take the front panal off to check the whole line.