I have a new 22" yardmachine that starts and works for few minutes but then it shuts down. I will not start right away. But when it gets cold, it starts fine to shutdown few minutes later. I changed the sparcplug but did not help. Any ideas?
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The thermostat has a differential built into the temperature sensing operation. The differential is normally a degree or more. If the stat shuts down at 72 degrees it should not start the unit again until the temperature in the room reaches 73. If the AC runs and cools properly until it shuts down, I would check the thermostat. The AC can not restart immediately after it shuts off because the pressures in the system are too high at the compressor. It takes a few minutes for the pressures equalize allowing the compressor to start. If the stat tells the unit to start under high pressure, the compressor will shut down on overload. It will start and run after the pressure falls enough for the compressor motor to run.
If the computer is overheating it will shut down to save the hardware from heat damage, the temp is pre set. It may get hot, due to air flow in a minute or and hour. What does the "screen comes up says problem " say? Check the fan and vents for dust and clean, improve air flow around bottom vents and side vents. Perhaps a Laptop Cooler? When the computer shuts down unepectedly, the computer see it as a crash and will load in that option screen. Run a 'Check Disk" on the OS drive buy opening computer in start menu, right click the drive with the OS (C), open properties, Tools, Check now, choose all options, follow instructions, reboot.
Not likely a grounding problem. Run a test: Turn on unit with NO sound into the mics and wait 5 minutes... now try the mics. If they start working for a few minutes, then the amp is being overdriven. These small systems can be overheated and a thermal protector shuts them down to protect them. A hidden problem is if the mics are in front of the speakers you MIGHT have ultrasonic (above hearing range) feedback that may be overheating the unit. Put your speakers nearer the audience and mics behind. If problem persists, exercise your warranty.
This is not to hard to solve. The outside airtemp determines how long the Glowplug timer works for absolute cold starts. Starting a warm engine is affected by underhood temps.
The Timer Relay will pulse power to the glowplugs. If the glowplugs are good, it is enough to preheat the cylinder for firing.
To tell if a glowplug is good is a matter of comparision between a new glowplug and a worn glowplug. YOU CAN MELT A GLOWPLUG WITH THIS TEST, but you remove the glowplugs, get a set of battery jumper cables and place one jumper to the base of the glowplug USING CARE not to ruin the threads on the glowplug.
You do not want to arc the spark on the glowplug threads. You want your fixed jumper connector locked on the base of the glowplug. The other battery cable jumper is touched to the top of the glowplug where the arcing occurs. This will not hurt the contact point if done properly.
You compare the "glow" of the old glowplug to the "glow" of the new glowplug. Bad glowplugs stay dark or operate at a darker color.
The Timer Relay gives you pulses and that is all the glowplugs get to heat up. This is what you simulate in your test. If a glowplug operates in a dull or dark condition, it is bad and throw it away. You want all glowplugs to readily light up when power is applied.
The other 2 parts to the system are the Timer Relay and the Power Relay. The timer gets its power from the Power Relay and the Power Relay is like a starter solenoid. The Power relay gets a tickler charge when the keyswitch is held to Start.
There are sometimes extreme cold Timers that hold the power longer tothe glowplugs. I do not have the Specs to tell you if your Timer is kicking out to soon.
I hope my solution helps. I have told you how to test your glowplugs. The timers are affected by air temperature and that makes it difficult to say if it is working long enough. If you know the glowplugs are good, and the timer shuts off before the glowplugs heat up, then you need a new or different type of timer.
A good place to start would be to remove air cleaner assembly and give it a good wash and service and take a close look at choke assembly/lever to be sure it isn't sticking in on position, while trying to run it with air filter off..
Try using non-ethanol gas. It's death on small engines. Starter fluid gives it a boost if higher octane. Have a reputable repair place clean out the gunk, then use good gas. Best of luck finding non-ethanol. Boating marinas carry it.
Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets...but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
If the mower is over a couple years old, then I also
recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor
repair kit, because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, count the number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position. That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns they were in/out.
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Good Luck, I hope this helped