An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: no pressure duild up
I am not sure if you have a plumbed model or the one with the tank, however, I will give advice for both. If machine is plumbed, make sure water is turned on then remove the top panel on the boiler is a reset switch (it is on the side of some models), its a red push in switch. If using a tank, fill then press reset and turn machine on.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello Mark First of all turn on a hot water tap and keep it running whilst you check to see if your boiler is firing up, if it is not then try to restart it, you should hear the flame if its running, turn your tap off then just stand by the boiler for a few minutes to see if the pressure gauge starts to rise, if it doesn't rise you will never get any hot water, you will have to add some pressure to about 1 and a half on the dial, to do that is simply turn on the water valve in the bottom of your boiler and watch your pressure gauge rise to about 1 and a half then firmly turn it off again, it looks like a small tap like the one at the back of your washing machine pipe, it's ok you will hear the water rushing in, now with your gauge at about 1 and a half and your boiler running your water will get hot
Re: Low pressure on WhiteWing steam cleaner 1. Make sure the safety switch for the hose handle on the right side of the hose handle is turned to the closed position. To do that, push it away form the hose. 2. Make sure the steam release button (next to the on/off button on the control panel on the steamer) is in the Off position. 3. Make sure the safety cap is tightened. 4. Make sure you have enough water in the tank (at least half a bottle of water) I hope this helps.
From what i know of these trucks, its a "common problem". There is a tsb on this and the gauges arent really accurate. The tow light is blinking due to heating(not really), its trying to tell you to stop towing. Ive read that some guys gauge is reading 250 which if it really were, the truck would be running. Water boils at 220(im sure u know that). Suggestions ive come across is adding aftermarket gauges that give "accurate" readings unlike factory ones that are controlled by computer. Aftermarket will give you independent readouts.Heres a temp check you can try on your truck, im not sure if it will work for your model.
This is for the regular dash, like in XLT. key off push trip button in and hold turn key on "test" will appear in message display. Release button. Gauges will sweep then just push the button each time to scroll thru various modes. Mostly junk info, but eventually you will come to temp, it is in Celcius so you have to convert to Farenheight(temp x 1.8 + 32) Normal temp for mine at idle is 88, so 88x1.8=158.4,+ 32=190.4F You can also view digital tach. All these modes are real time, and will remain on until you cycle the key on/off.
Low coolant is detected by a sensor inside the plastic resevoir tank. These things lie, so if the resevoir has plenty of coolant, it's probably a dirty or faulty sensor. If you can't see coolant, add it directly to the resevoir. As for the A/C, you can purchase an A/C pressure gauge or complete check and fill kit at a parts store and follow the directions for using it. If the pressure reads low, with the car running and A/C on full blast, add refrigerant until you hear the compressor turn on. Check your gauge again. Once you have it to pressure, you should be good to go. If it never gets there, you have problems. If it gets there and stops working again days later, you have a slow leak.
try taking the gauge off, do that arfter you drain it from the safty valve, and then run it and see if eny air comes out, if not thers a block, unless your regulator as jamed up inside, try taking the knob right off and push it down with a screw driver or something alike, air should come out ether into your airline or on the way out of taking the device out of the hole should drop psi in the airline through a little hole on the regulator. if none of this happens then i dunno, if it does be careful not to strip the knob putting it back on.
The gauge is connected with pump water output with a very thin pipe called cappilary pipe. So if any dirt that is comming from the water supply can blocked this cappilary pipe and if this happens during the pressuring phase then blocked a pressure of 4 bar inside the gauge. So if you desconect the cappilary pipe behind the gause the you should see if any water comes out from cappilary pipe. If not you can remove it also from the side of the water pump and try to clean it by blowing air from the side connected to gauge this can clean it perfectly. The you can conect it back together. The you will read normaly the pressure of the water mains and during making easpresso pressure of about 9 bars. If you dont have any change in the gauge after performing above the gauge might be the problem.
If I understand you correctly this is what you have:
- A pump that draws water from a lake 300 feet from lake to your cabin (I assume the pump is at the cabin)
- The pump kicks on to maintain pressure in a tank that distributes water to faucets in the cabin. The pump only turns on to pressurize the tank when water is being used (I am assuming).
- When you turn on tap, pressure in the pressure tank drops to 30 psi, then you hear water sucking from the tank to tap and flow stops at tap. Then the pump finally kicks back on and pressures tank to 23 psi.
- The pump is not used regularly.
If water flow stops when the pressure tank is reading 25 psi, then likely the real pressure is 0 psi and pressure gauge is reading wrong. If this gauge is tied into a switch that starts and stops the pump, then this is probably your problem. You may have partial blockage in your pressure gauge/switch that is causing gauge to move too slowly to keep up with the actual pressure changes when water is being used. Ore the pressure gauge/switch may be broken. Pressure gauges are notorious for reading pressure when there is none. If you can unplug the pump and disconnect the pressure gauge/switch and check for blockage in the ports you should start there. You mentioned that this worked good for the last two summers, if if sits unused for long periods, it could promote bio-growth, rust and/or sediment in the connection to the pressure gauge. If you find blockage, remove it and flush it out. Reinstall the pressure gauge/switch and try it again.
One other possibility is clogged strainer(s) / filter(s) in the water lines. It would not hurt to pull and check/clean any strainers / filters in the system including before the pump. I would even check at the lake for a strainer where the water enters the suction line to the cabin.
I would not assume that the pump is the problem yet.
If you have public water, it may have a check valve on it. Many municipalities have done so. If so, when the water heats, the associated expansion will push water out of the temperature/pressure relief valve. The solution is to install an expansion tank. You'll need to know your water pressure and water heater tank size. To check the pressure, get a gauge that attaches to the garden hose outlet and turn it on. That pressure reading will determine what you have to set the pressure in the expansion tank to. Good luck.
Are you refering to the water pressure gauge near the top of the unit?
If so, during the final rinse/sanitize cycle the gauge should read between 15 and 25 psi.( flow pressure ) and is usually controlled by a water pressure regulator piped into your plumbing near the machine. Once the cycle has finished, it's normal to see the gauge register much higher pressure readings ( static pressure ) This is the water pressure being supplied to your building. Pressures of 60psi+ are not uncommon. What, I think, you're describing is normal.
electrical problem. take the truck to the dealer and have the computer checked / reprogrammed. unfortunately, your average mechanic cannot reprogram the computer. have you noticed any other problem that would point in the direction of an electrical problem (lights, radio, lighter, etc.)?