Sounds like your heat pump isn't working and system working on second stage heat which is your electric heat strips.It is designed supplement the heat pump if the temperature falls more than 2-3 degrees below the set point.Outside unit should be running and blowing out cold air from outside unit. If not have system serviced.
Your thermostat is calling for blower, your fan relay is stuck, or that model had a time delay blower solid state board on it which had the blower relay on it, and it could be bad. I would turn the power off to all of your system for a few minutes and see if this could make something happen.
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If it is a heat pump if the ambient I door temp is not than 3 degree s lower than 66 it utilizes the aux heat ( heat strips) to help the unit achieve your desired temperature set point faster. Also the heat pump does need help if trying to overcome really cold temperatures. Once set point is achieved the heat pump should be able to keep the home at the set point without aux heat. But the flashing may just be to let you know that the heat strips are in use at the current time. See if when the temperature gets close to your set temp if it goes away. If not a heat pump it may always flash to just tell you heat strips are in use. Some homes mostly trailers only have heat strips but on heat pumps heat strips are there to help heat pump get to your desired temp. But when your heat pump can maintain the temp without the strips is where it saves power. Also heat pump thermostat hVe emergency heat settings. This scares alot of people but if your heat pump isn't working and you have to switch it to emergency heat until you can get it fixed,. That means that the system is only using heat strips and not utilizing heat pump at all. Power bill may be a little higher but remember, most trailer homes only have heat strips and if you do not use emergency heat in this situation your heat strips will only heat home 3 degrees below set point on thermostat to allow heat pump to bring it up the other 3 degrees. If heat pump isn't working correctly you will always be 3 degrees colder than what you set you thermostat at. Maybe too much info but it's prolly just your aux heat on helping system achieve the desired temp you set thermostat too.
Look on the condensor, (outdoor unit) at the very bottom of the rear panel and you should find a red reset button. push it. If that does not solve the problem, and the outdoor unit is running (make sure both the fan AND the compressor are running) then you are looking at a low refridgerant issue and possibly dirty coils.
In that case, clean the coils and have refridgerant added.
first look for red button neer the copper line set if has one push it second inspect thermostat wires for weed eater damage check disconnect for fuses check breaker at main panel pull disconect and remove cover check stat wire connections look at the capacitor if swelled up on top bad if all look ok put disconect in using insulated object manually push in contactor if unit comes on check for 24 volt ac on yellow stat wire to common if none stat wire could be loose at indoor unit or stat bad hope this helps you
Definately get this checked out. Some thing has shorted just enough to let voltage "Feed back" and keep the fan running. Could be capacitor, wires rubbed through each other, etc. A reset is a safety that is used when there is an overcurrent or over pressure situation. No reset set for this situation.
There is always an outside chance that if you touch the unit while standing on wet ground, you may get shocked. I firmly believe that something is allowing power to the fan in a feedback condition so don't let this go as it may cause damage to other parts.
Good Luck and let me know how you make out on this.
Do you have gas or electric heat. If you have gas then you do not have a heat pump. You should in most cases have a red,yellow, white, and green wires coming to the thermostat. R should go to rc/rh G should go to green Y should go to Y and w should go to W. Also the switches on back should be switched to non heat pump and gas rather than electric. Hope this helps.
does the furnace ignite?? your system may not have been lighting and has gone into ignition lockout count the codes of the led lights then remove panel led diagnostic codes are listed there.
if led codes indicate no problem verify capacitor is good and that mtr is getting 115 volts.