Need to buy oven seal strips, vinyl slipped over metal
Need to buy oven seal strips, vinyl slipped over 1/4'' flat metal. there are 2 21'' or so (top & Bottom) and 2 side seals 10'' or so. There is no model plate. It is Avacardo Green, so its old, but works great.
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The window is comprised of two pieces of tempered glass with a metal band seal around the outside. Because the metal and the glass have different rates of heat expansion, material expelled by baking items finds its way past the seal and in between the two pieces of glass. As a practical matter, it is better to live with the dirty window than to risk destroying the oven door to remove and clean it. Besides, if you were able to remove the window assembly how would you remove the metal seal, separate and clean both pieces of glass, and reassemble?
You didn't say whether you have a gas or electric oven, or oven & stove. I'll assume you have a stove, just to cover all bases.
First, you should shut down the oven: a gas stove will have a valve on the gas line behind the stove. The valve will either have a red handle or a flat stem that usually has a hole in it. Turn either valve 1/4 turn to shut off gas, use a wrench on the flat stem. An electric stove should be shut off by flipping off the double circuit breaker for it in your electric panel. Do not unplug an electric stove when it is on; this can damage the plug &/or electrocute you.
Most likely the inside of the knob has stripped out. Look at the knob for a hole that has a setscrew in it: a small allen wrench or screwdriver will loosen the setscrew, most knobs don't have them and will pull off. Be careful to use even pressure on two sides of the knob; if you can't pull it off, use two butter knives or flat screw drivers to pry it up enough to get a grip on it.
Look at the center stem on the back of the knob, it will likely be cracked or stripped. Some stems have a D-shaped metal insert that strips out inside the plastic stem. If you have one, pull off a burner knob and compare the stems in the back, if they are the same size, put the burner knob on the shaft for the oven control, and use that knob to turn the oven control off.
If the burner knob won't fit, use your fingers or a pair of pliers (gently) to turn off the oven control shaft. If the shaft stops normally, you can turn the stove back on using either the gas valve or the circuit breaker. If you have a gas stove that doesn't have electric ignition (a clicking noise when you turn on a burner) you may need to re-light the pilots for the burners. Lift the covers off the burners to re-light the pilots.
If you have succeeded in turning off the oven, you need a new knob -- you can get one at an appliance parts store or maybe a hardware store. If the oven control did not turn off normally, I would leave the oven/stove turned off: the control itself will need to be replaced by a qualified repair person.
Shut off the circuit breaker to it for FIVE minutes, then back on. If the problem persists then do the following:
A latch locks the center top INSIDE of the door during cleaning. Run a piece of semi-stiff, flat object, like a cardboard strip that is in L shape behind the top lip of the door from RIGHT TO LEFT. You may need to push it along with your finger jambed in there when it reaches the latch. With a little push the latch should open.
Try to run the oven, if F9 shows again, press cancel Oven to quiet it. The Lock state is still in place. Move the latch hook manually all the way to RIGHT. Then shut off the circuit breaker for FIVE minutes, then back on. The oven should work ok.
If this fails again try the five minute shut off with the latch in other starting positions.
If none of these work then the latch mechanism, or it's motor is really broken. Replace or ditch and never buy Amana again!
Does the rack raise? Are you hearing a buzzing every second? You could have a bad rotation motor, or the drive chain could have just fallen off. Both of these repairs aren't terribly difficult but are extremely annoying. It might be a best use of your time and resources to call an authorized service provider and have them repair the issue. If you're feeling ambitious the first thing you want to do is verify that your rotation motor is still functioning and that the gearbox is not stripped out. Make sure the supply power to the oven is off, climb up on top of the oven and remove the covers over the lift and rotation assembly if they are not already removed. You should see a black cylindrical motor with a plastic fan blade on the top, this is your rotation motor. Spin the fan blade with your finger while looking at the motor shaft, it should be rotating, if it is not you need a new motor. To change your rotation motor you will need a 5/16" ratcheting box wrench and it can be a nightmare the first time you change one. Unwire the motor, pay attention to which wires you disconnected. Remove the four screws underneath the motor and slide the motor straight up through the hole. Change the chain sprocket over to your new motor and reverse the steps.
If your motor IS rotating when you spin the fan then your chain may have slipped off. Loosen the four screws holding the rotation motor in place so you can slide it back and forth. Lift up on the shaft and place a screw driver in between the metal disc above the big sprocket to keep the weight off of the sprocket. Put the chain on the small sprocket first and then slowly work the chain onto the large sprocket. Once the chain is on lower the shaft back down and tighten the motor back up. Hopefully your rack should start rotating again, if it doesn't the gears in the gearbox could still be stripped causing it to slip, in which case you should call an authorized service provider to service the oven, or see above.
You have 2 pieces of glass that are separated by a frame then sealed. What has happened the seal has been broken and thus allowing air and grease inside. You can take it apart but the grease will come back, or you can buy a repalcement glass and be done with it. The question is, do you want to go to the trouble of cleaning the glass (1-2 hours of disassembly and assembly) probably once every 2 months depending on how often you use the oven, or buy a new one and it will always be clean. One caution, cleaning the glass periodically weakens and flexes the metal frame or band thus making it harder to properly seat the glass.
We removed the front glass of our oven door after a big spill between the two glass sections (by blunt force!). Since it took us 4 hours to put back together, we wanted to spread the info in case any others have the misfortune to make this mistake! Note, I wouldn't do this unless you have to, just incase you can't get your door back together again.
Assuming the back sheet of oven glass is still in position, but the front sheet is not attached -
1. Follow the manual instructions to remove the door, ensuring that both hinges are locked fully (otherwise you won't be able to get the door back on easily)
2. Once the door is removed, ensure that the plastic spacers that hold the two sheets of glass apart are in original position, resting on the inner door, at the bottom corners of the tempered glass
3. Remove the narrow metal strip at the bottom of the inner door by unscrewing the 3 screws that hold it in place. This is the metal groove that the outer pane of glass needs to rest in
4. Lay the outer sheet of glass in position in this metal strip
5. Lay the outer sheet of glass over the inner door. Slot the outer sheet into position at the top of the inner door first, ensuring it is layed flush at the top.
6. A second person needs to ease the metal strip back into place at the bottom of the inner door, so that the two sheets of glass are now held together at both top and bottom.
7. Screw the metal strip back into position with the 3 screws
8. Follow the manual instructions to replace the door. Ensure that the small grooves at the bottom of both hinges are resting in position correctly, otherwise the door will not close flushly.