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Charlie Cassar Posted on Jan 11, 2017
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Replaced defrosting timer, still doing the same thing. Either fan only or compressor only works, l have swapped wires around at the timer, made sure that timer is not in defrost cycle at no avail.

Westinghouse upright freezer model FJ-383

1 Answer

Jorgie the appliance guy

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  • Refrigerators Master 5,639 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 11, 2017
Jorgie  the appliance guy
Refrigerators Master
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THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.

To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"
Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix Troubleshooting Thermistor Problems in Refrigerators Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1 Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

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Related Questions:

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My refrigerator is running but not cold enough....

My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.

The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
on Oct 01, 2010 • Refrigerators
0helpful
1answer

Frigidaire model FRT21TSG refridge...defrosts and refreezes by it self, When I checked it there was no ice build up on the coils,and the compressor was not running, does the timer control the compress

Replace the aftermarket 3n1 gizmo with another one, its probably burnt out again, the compressor should almost always run if the fan is running, if it does not, it needs a new start mechanizm, thats the aftermarket thing your talking about, make sure you wire it the same as the old one
0helpful
1answer

Our refrigerators defrost time is too long. The frozen food gets defrosted and frozen again.

I would recommend replacing the defrost termination thermostat. Sounds as if yours is
stuck shut. (The timer just has a set time for defrost, which can be much longer than
needed). The defrost termination thermostat senses temperature inside the freezer and
opens a switch which shuts off the defrost element. It is located inside the freezer
compartment behind the back panel and is clipped onto a tube. It has two wires coming to it usually (sometimes 3). Make sure to unplug fridge before removing back panel
and be mindful of the wires to the fan so as not to break them. Hope this helps.
Also, if the motor start relay on the compressor is going bad this same thing may happen as the compressor kicks out but the freezer fan continues to run.
It is located under the cover on the side of the compressor. Model and serial numbers
are inside fridge on the side panel. Both parts are usually around 20 dollars or less
at an appliance part store.
0helpful
1answer

My freezer is no longer freezing food- why?

I looked up your model. This is a self defrosting model which features a fan motor for the compressor and the evaporator. If either of them 2 fans is out then the freezer won't work well. That is the first thing I would check. If only one of the fans is gone out then replace that fan and rock on. If Both fans and compressor are not working then hunt down the timer. It may be stuck in defrost mode. The timer is nestled up behind the cold control and light bulb inside the nice little console in the fresh food compartment. Look under the console for a hole about the size of a dime. Inside that hole a timer advance. Use a flat blade screwdriver to advance the timer till you hear the compressor and fans come on. If the timer is fine the next thing to look for is ice buildup inside the evaporation compartment. If you see that then the defrost heater and termination thermostat needs to be replaced.
If both fans operate ok but the compressor is not working then I would remove and inspect the compressor relay for wear. The cold control would be the next thing to take a look at. If it is open the compressor and fans will not run but the inside light will work.
themobilian_2360.jpgthemobilian_2361.jpgthemobilian_2362.jpg

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

1helpful
1answer

I have a paragon 8145-20 defrost timer. do you wire the compressor to the timer? I cant seem to find a wiring diagram on how to wire this correctly

Link below has wiring diagrams and wiring manuals for 240V 8145-20
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#defrost

I am not expert installing defrost timers.
According to information from Paragon, 8145 is for hot gas defrosting. 8140 series are time initiated, and pressure-or-temperature terminated.
Wiring diagram does not show compressor wired to timer.

The cycle works like this:
Timer is running but defrost is not switched ON.
Fan is ON.
Timer switches ON and activates defrost cycle.
Fan turns OFF. Hot gas valve turns ON for defrosting.
Cycle limit switch is temperature or pressure sensitive.
Cycle limit switch reaches trip point, timer switches OFF.
Hot gas valve turns OFF. Fan turns ON.
So fan is off during defrost cycle.
Hot gas valve turns ON when timer switches ON.
Timer is switched OFF by pressure-or-temperature limit switch.
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1answer

Freezer not working

The frist thing I would do is clean around the compressor area. Removing air restrictions. I would then make sure the fan down there was blowing air across the compressor and I would see to it the compressor was working ok. I would check the compressor relay. These tend to fall apart with age. If neither the compressor nor the fan was running I would check to see if the defrost timer was stuck in the defrost mode. If all of that was working and I have cleaned the compressor area, I would then check if the inside fan was blowing. I would look for signs of a defrost problem like frost on the rear wall. I would remove the service panel and check the defrost heater and termination thermostat. If either of these is bobo then ice will build in the freezer blocking the flow of air.
I have a Bottom mount Amana manual HERE

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1answer

Fridge no longer stays cold enough. Compressor will come on for a short time but not long enough to get fridge to proper temp. Compressor seems rather hot to the touch. Fan is working and coils are clean....

Hello,


Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this helpout in solving the problem

0helpful
1answer

My Kitchenaid Fridge completely stopped working. It is completely dead. I did check to make sure the electrical receptacle was working. Repair clinic said it could be Wiring, Thermostat (didn't say which...

It's the defrost timer. Nothing else can shut off the cooling fan in the rear, the circulating fan in the freezer and the compressor at the same time. Try looking near your temperature control for a small hole that you can fit your small finger into. Grab a screwdriver and try turning the 2 tooth bezel located there. It won't look like a knob or adjuster, but that IS your defrost timer. Rotating it will restart your fridge, but the timer motor is bad so it will have to be replaced.This is just a quick way to confirm the diagnosis.
1helpful
1answer

Refrigerator won't get cold enough

My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section . For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.

The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

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