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My whirlpool side by side is not cooling right. Freezer at 20 degrees. Compressor runs, coils frost up good, all of them, defrost mode kicks in and defrosts coils. light goes off with door closed. The front edge between fridge and freezer is hot. Both fans are blowing. There is an almost full tray of water in the drip pan, which it has not done before.

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 1,606 Answers

The fan which cools the compressor is bad (condensor motor ) .

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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The freezer stays at 20 degrees, the refrigerator side is at 38 degrees. Replaced the defrost timer yesterday. Shut off then turned back on til the compressor kicked back in.


Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Aug 06, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice forming in the top freezer, leaks in the bottom refrigerator section


Sounds like the defrost circuit of your fridge has failed. If you remove the back panel of the freezer compartment, you will see the evap coil encased with ice. Normally the defrost circuit will turn off the compressor and turn on a heater to warm the coil to about 45 degrees to melt any frost build up. After about 40 minutes the compressor will kick back in to keep your fridge cool again.

The typical failures are that the defrost heater burns out. If you have an older fridge, the defrost timer fails to advance, causing the fridge to stay in cooling or defrost mode.

May 27, 2011 | Kenmore 18.2 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

1 Answer

The refrigerator side is only getting down to 50 degrees. the freezer is down to 0 degree. unit is about 2 yrs. old.


There is likely a problem with the defrost circuit or fan (but could be a low freon charge or other problem). The freezer compartment has the cooling coil with defrost heater and a fan that pulls cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment, based on the setting of the thermostat in the fresh food compartment. Before you dig into that, you should vacuum the condensor coil to remove dirt and dust that always collects on it. It that solves it - you're done. Otherwise, continue.

When the defrost heater fails, the area that the coil is in turns into a solid block of frost and ice. It becomes impossible for air to be drawn across the cold coil, cooled and blown into the fresh food compartment. The result is a rising temperature in the fresh food compartment - and eventually in the freezer section, too. Since the fresh food compartment contains the thermostat and the temperature never gets low enough to satisfy it - the compressor runs non-stop. That is, until the defrost timer kicks in to shut it off for 20 minutes or so.

The first thing to do is to manually defrost the freezer by accessing the cooling coil after emptying the contents of the freezer. This can be a pain in the neck to remove racks, shelves, ice maker, etc. to get to the back wall of the freezer, behind which the coil is protected. If you expose the cooling coil and it is encased in frost and ice it is a problem with the defrost circuit. If it is not - the fan is suspect. If the fan spins, check for a blocked path between the fan and the fresh food compartment.

If it is a defrost circuit problem, you'll need to check voltages and continuity on the defrost terminator & timer and defrost heating element, fans, etc. after completely thawing the ice & frost. This job isn't a good first time DIY job due to the danger of freezing skin, etc. due to possible exposure to freon in the system and the tight spaces you'll be working in with live voltages. You might want to call a pro after you've defrosted or put up another fixya request if you decide to dig in on your own and need specific help with procedures, locating parts, wiring diagrams, etc.

I hope this was a good starting point to help you decide whether to go forward or not on your own. Good luck!

Aug 09, 2010 | KitchenAid (KSRD22FKST) Side by Side...

1 Answer

Coils freeze up, replaced thermostat, defrost unit, mother board, only marginally works when set on 2-3


It is normal for the coils to frost evenly all over but if it's not defrosted it will build up preventing proper cooling. After replacing your defrost components make sure the frost is being melted. The motherboard determines when to defrost based you your use of the freezer/fridge. It should defrost from once a day to once every two or three days.
Is the fan in the freezer running? It won't cool right without it. It should run when the compressor runs.
Are the coils frosting evenly? Uneven frost means it is low on freon and requires a tech to repair.
Is the fan underneath the fridge near the compressor running when the compressor runs. If not It won't cool properly.
Does the compressor ever cut off as it should when it reaches the selected temp.

Jan 20, 2010 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool model ED5RHGXMQ00 and it is not producing any coolness. Icemaker stopped working and the tempature is warming up. What can it be


http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx


. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Nov 16, 2009 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

2 Answers

My kenmore elite model 596.73509201 just stoped cooling things, i did take the cover off bottom and vacume off the coils, they were very dusty and pulled it out to clean behind, but with nothing in it...


Hello. First thing you want to do is listen to see if you can hear the compressor running. It is the round tank in the back. this holds and pumps all the freon through your unit. If it is not humming, then it will not cool. This is probably the most expensive part. Around $250-$400

If compressor is running, then you will want to look in the evaporator tray attached to top of compressor. It should have some water in it. If not, check that the drain tube above it is not blocked. If so, unclog it.

If all this is working fine, then your problem is in the temperature control unit. Either temp control itself, or the temperature sensor which is located inside the and above freezer panel.

Last possible cause would be the control board which also runs to the compressor and can automatically shut the compressor off it it reaches a certain temperature.

The best bet is to get manual and any parts at www.repairclinic.com

Oct 08, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

3 Answers

Whirlpool ED22PQ, 21.7 cubic feet. Freezer is not cold. Sounds like something is trying to "click on", but nothing happens.


unplug your freezer. Move the fridge 1 foot from the wall. Wait 15 minutes and plug again . if it works good , ok . if not you will need to call the technician who will check the starting relay and the compressor

Sep 12, 2009 | Whirlpool ET4WSKXS Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Fridge not cooling


If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

Aug 10, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer not cold enough


It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 

Apr 03, 2009 | Thermador 42 in Built In Custom Panel Side...

1 Answer

Whirlpool refrig not cooling


is the fan in the freezer working when compressor is on? if not you need to replace it. do you have a large frost build up on the back wall of the freezer? if so you have a defrost problem, or back to the evaporator fan. If the fan is working you have a defrost problem which could mean a bad heater, timer, or bad defrost thermostat....

Jan 03, 2009 | Whirlpool GS6NBEXR Side by Side...

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