Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
OK everyone. First I got the DL (door lock fault) I replaced that item ( my system is stackable so it is a pain lifting down the dryer each time)
Now the Bag of SH** is giving us the F11 code. Sorry guys but I have never had the misfortune to own such a load of junk. Which board do I now replace. The CPU is in two parts. Do I spend another 500 bucks ?
I told my good wife we may just go ahead and buy a new cheaper washer.
How this company can get away with this is just beyond me. A car is made up of thousands of components and most run (new) for over 150.000 miles.
This less than 30 component load of garbage can not enen run less than 60 washings before it junks out. Thank god they do not make aircraft engines. For the love of my sanity can some one help before my wife leaves me.
I had same error code F11 and DL.....I sprayed the door lock (inside) with WWD40......so far works OK
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
I wanna thank all of you for your input. I had the "DL F-11" code also. My washer would run 12 minutes and then stop with the annoying beep and error codes. After learning that the "DL" was the door lock, I decided to order the part online for 50 bucks. After I placed the order I decided to take this $50 thing apart and give it a look-see. (Boys like to tear things apart!)
There is a solenoid inside that actuates the lock. My finding was that there was some hardened goo that seeped out of the solenoid. It didn't look good! I believe this to have caused an electrical imbalance that the computor didn't like, thus sending it into error mode.
Removal and installation was a snap. First I took the top off. Then to make room for my arm to get to the door-lock, I pushed the drum all the way back and held it in place by wedging a shoe in the front end. Then I pushed the drum to the side, opposite the door-lock, and wedged it with another shoe. This gave me plenty of room to reach the door-lock. Unplug the three connectors and remove the three screws from the front side of the door-lock. (Inside door at 2:00.)
Reverse order for the install!
Thanks again for your posts which led me in the right direction!
P.S. Don't tell my wife about the shoes part!
Posted on Jan 15, 2008
When ever ours is flashing F 11 it means the washer has sucked in more socks on spin cycle and is blocking it from draining. My husband takes off the back to clear the drain and remove socks and other debri stopping it up then it will last a while until it sucks more socks in. It is now flashing F DL- Don't know what that is but I do know this was the worst purchase we have ever made. We though we were buying top of the line to last. I will never buy Kenmore front loader again. I can definitely say it SUCKS and I am usually a very positive person. I have other friends locally that have the same issues with theirs , same brand and year 05.
Posted on Sep 15, 2011
I had the same F11/DL problem. I tighten the two screws on the door latch and it's working great. for now
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
Just some part numbers to help if you need to order parts. For the GHW9200LWO Washer (Sanitary Cycle Model)- the part number for the CCU (Microcomputer or main computer) is 8181924. The part number for the Motor Control Unit (MCU) is 8182706. I did a search for the part numbers and found the CCU for $79.90 shipping included - the same part from Whirlpool was $190 plus with shipping included. I put the CCU on and my washer works perfectly again. Hope this helps someone since I had such a hard time finding out the correct part numbers. Whirlpool first sent me the MCU even though I specifically told them it was not that part but the CCU.
Posted on Dec 01, 2007
DL is a door lock error. This is usually an indication of a bad door latch. F11 is a serial communications error from the Central Control Unit CCU (which is your main computer). If the door latch is defective it could be generating the communications error code as well. A defective CCU can also give the same symptoms, though. Before replacing any parts, however, double check all you connections to make sure you don't have any loose wires. The least expensive of the two possible solutions would be to replace the door latch (about $50). The CCU can run between $150 and $250. Hope this leads you in the right direction.
Posted on Nov 27, 2007
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Error code F 11/ DL
First lets get your door unlocked so you can get the clothes out.
Remove the lower front panel from the washer. Reach up to the bottom of the latch and you will feel a tab hanging from the latch. Pull down on it and the door will unlock.
When you have the panel off you should see a tech sheet, probably on the right as you are looking at the machine. This tells you what to check for each fault code.
The F 11 code is for a communication failure between the main control board and the motor control board under the machine.
The DL is for a door latch problem as you already know.
If you are now getting both codes, you either have two seperate problems (unlikely), or the main control is the problem.
The only thing that the 2 codes have in common is the main control at the top rear of the machine. Loose wiring connections at the board and faulty solder joints in the boards are the most common problems we run into with electronic controls.
Most likely the door latch was not the problem the first time you got this code. The latches are usually pretty reliable unless the switch actuator gets broken, which won't give a code, it just won't start.
Check your owners manual for the warranty information. These machines used to have a 2 yr warranty on the control boards. Warranty policies changed industry wide in fall of '06 so they may only be covered for a year on yours.
Post back if you have any questions or need help.
Posted on Jan 05, 2008
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Dec 10, 2015 | Washing Machines
on Dec 04, 2009 | Washing Machines
Hello and welcome to FixYa
DL f is a door lock error and is caused due to an issue with the door lock when it is unable to lock/unlock. Please check the door lock mechanism/door switch assembly and replace the part that has gone bad so that the issue is resolved. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
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